Replacement for surface mounted component

[Jerry Hawtho]

The component shown below is defective. I can remove it, but no way could I put a new one back in. To small! However, it would be possible to install two discrete diodes which were compatible. I don't know enough about Shockly (sp) diodes to determine e what product would work. The part is connected directly the signal generator output of my scope.
Thanks for suggestions.

 

[chazix]

what product would work.

At a superficial level, any Schottky diode with a reverse voltage rating of at least 30V, and a forward current rating of at least 100mA would do. Then you can pick the package type that you're comfortable working with. You could start here, and make sure to select through-hole mounting and in-stock status:

https://www.mouser.com/en/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/diodes-rectifiers/schottky-diodes-rectifiers/

But... thinking a little deeper, I suspect that the forward voltage at lower currents is probably important. The original part's 800mV maximum at 100mA is probably not that meaningful. If you can find some data or graphs that show the original part's forward voltage at lower currents, I think I would try to match that in the replacements.

I guess you know that you need to be careful about what you connect your scope's signal generator to .

I sort of hate to ask, but why did you also show some specs for an op amp?

 

[Jerry Hawtho]

Thanks for your response. Showing the op amp was an error on my part. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[elvi]

Jerry.
Don't let SMD scare you. Watch a few how to videos, buy a heat gun and use your Flux. I avoid leadfree as it requires much higher heat to melt the tin.
If you choose to go through hole, is your PWB multilayer? If you pin drill holes, it might pass through a vref layer.
Its standard practice to hide signals in the middle of multilayer boards to shield them from unwanted RF.

Hope this helps.

 

[Jerry Hawtho]

Thanks for the suggestions, it appears the failure is a little deeper than the diodes. Just ordered a free standing generator.

 

[tadawson]

3 terminal devices like that I find pretty easy with nothing more than a fine iron and fine rosin core solder. Clean the board, and put a small amount of solder on one pad. Place the part, and while holding it in place, heat that one terminal to tack it in place. Then solder t he other two, and last fully reflow the first one.

(For me, this would be easier than trying to jerry-rig leaded parts onto those small pads . . . )

 

[Aerobat]

3 terminal devices like that I find pretty easy with nothing more than a fine iron and fine rosin core solder. Clean the board, and put a small amount of solder on one pad. Place the part, and while holding it in place, heat that one terminal to tack it in place. Then solder t he other two, and last fully reflow the first one.

(For me, this would be easier than trying to jerry-rig leaded parts onto those small pads . . . )

I agree, I DIY'd a surface mount component with a sharp iron tip and a head-mounted magnifier. The hardest part is when you drop a cap on the floor and have no chance of finding it. Best to order a strip of 10!