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Replacement Surrounds, glued under the cone

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Dry-fit the surround first. If it's the right size, the inner tab will mate nicely with the surface you need to attach to, and it will go pretty much like gluing to the outside surface.

If things don't come together, try to get your money back on those surrounds, and get the right ones. Rick Cobb is one good source. Check his ebay store at http://stores.ebay.com/looneytune2001. Or if you don't find what you need, try emailing him at rcobb@tampabay.rr.com
 
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OK, followed your link. Every reason to think that's a good surround.

I'll just add that since you have to go around tucking the tab under the cone to fit it on, the usual procedure of putting glue on both the cone and the surround, letting them tack up for a minute, and then putting them together, might be a mess. I'd say go with glue applied to cone surface only, and work fast, don't let it get too stiff before everything is positioned right.
 
I've done two back-mounted surrounds (later EPIs with poly-coated woofers and the woofers from an HPM1100) and it was as straightforward as doing them to the front. Glue the surround to the basket first, let it set up then do the surround to the cone. I assume you're using a contact-type adhesive (e.g., Eileen's "Tacky Glue"), applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry, then pressing together to bond? I sometimes use waxed paper to isolate the two surfaces while they dry. Not ideal, but it does work.

HTH.
 
Lastplace said:
Can anybody give advice on how to glue replacement surrounds under the woofer cone? I'm about to do a set of minimus 77s, the orginals are attached under.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=295457&highlight=minimus+77
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Last time I needed to this behind the cone refoming, I raised the cone above the frame to give me more room to apply the glue to the surround after I slipped it around the cone. I used a variable DC power supply. A battery would probably work too. Or some mechanical means with stand offs.

If you put the glue on the surround before putting it behind the cone, you run the risk get the glue on the cone and who knows what else.
 
I'm thinking of the method, which I have from the instructions R Cobb includes with his kits, of doing the surround-to-basket bond last, and playing a 30 Hz tone through the speakers as you do it, so you can make sure of coil allignment. That process requires that you be able to shift things about if necessary until noise is eliminated, which will be a bunch easier if you're doing the surround/basket bond.
 
Yes, surround to cone first then surround to basket :yes:. It's typically much more difficult to center the coil if done the other way around.

The back glued surrounds I've done have all been larger than the 77s you have there (8, 10, and 15 inchers) but I find it much easier and cleaner than front glued surrounds. Dry fit first then just push the surround down a bit with the tip of the glue spout and run a bead of glue around.
 
DonQuixote99 said:
I'm thinking of the method, which I have from the instructions R Cobb includes with his kits, of doing the surround-to-basket bond last, and playing a 30 Hz tone through the speakers as you do it, so you can make sure of coil alignment. That process requires that you be able to shift things about if necessary until noise is eliminated, which will be a bunch easier if you're doing the surround/basket bond.
Click to expand...

I concur with the second statement fo sho; I always use some LF signal on the woofers when I refoam.

As to the first, sounds fine to me. I don't think I did it that way, but no reason not to.
 
I've used Rick Cobb's surrounds and instructions on several speakers. For those attached to the back of the cone (NLA, for example), here's how I did it:

- Put the driver face down and put glue wherever I could reach with the bottle
- Spread the glue with a cotton swab
- Flip driver over and apply/spread glue on the surround
- Slip the surround down around the cone
- Pinch the surround and cone together all the way around, making sure they line up correctly
- Continue pinching around the cone to get rid of any voids and to let the glue set up
- Attach surround to basket the next day using a 30 Hz tone (VERY low volume)
- Once everything was set, I put a bead of glue around the cone/surround seam (front and back) and the surround/basket seam to prevent any air leaks

This method has worked for me on about four pairs so far. Next up is a pair of Bose 901s (18 drivers)
 
Alot of ones I do are on inside of cone. Use a small brush and with speaker upside down, brush a layer of adhesive on cone edge, then proceed to attach foam. No matter what you always want to attach foams to cone first, then frame. It is easier to make sure the VC is centered. And applying glue on cone assures that you won't get any excess on front of cone. It is no big deal to get excess on foam as it will dry almost transparent, unless you are using the brown glue. IIRC the minimus cones are poly aren't they? Then you would be using the brown glue if they are. Anyways, after attaching foam to cone edge, let it dry for a couple hours before running a bead around frame and whatever method you use to make sure VC is centered, and you should be ok.
 
mfhale said:
Next up is a pair of Bose 901s (18 drivers)
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Those are easy as pie. I re-did my IV's with cloth surrounds. The spiders on those drivers are really sturdy and there's no need to attempt centering, as long as you lay the surround down on top of speaker as if your landing a model spaceship on them, :D

Although one of my drivers was not quite centered with the spider, so I had to cut dust cap and shim it. I did all this with them right in the cabs. I kept any debris from falling into cabinets with a small vacuum nozzle as I cleaned off old stuff. about 13 hours later, I was done :)
 
thanks for the advice...

In this case the surrounds are not from rcobb but I have used him in the past, excellent product.
 
DonQuixote99 said:
OK, followed your link. Every reason to think that's a good surround.

I'll just add that since you have to go around tucking the tab under the cone to fit it on, the usual procedure of putting glue on both the cone and the surround, letting them tack up for a minute, and then putting them together, might be a mess. I'd say go with glue applied to cone surface only, and work fast, don't let it get too stiff before everything is positioned right.
Click to expand...
If you are using Aleene's Tacky Glue, apply the glue to the surround and let it set for about 30-40 min., then attach it to the underside of the cone. Works like a charm and sticks right away, but can be adjusted if necessary. And absolutely no mess!
 
sealy said:
If you are using Aleene's Tacky Glue, apply the glue to the surround and let it set for about 30-40 min., then attach it to the underside of the cone. Works like a charm and sticks right away, but can be adjusted if necessary. And absolutely no mess!
Click to expand...

Will letting the glue set that long still work properly if only on one surface, or should it be applied to both surfaces to set, like the procedure for contact cement.
 
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