replacement tube identification lettering on chassis

[thornev]

I'm sure this question must have been asked before. I don't know what the official name is. Is there any place or any device that can reproduce the lettering that has worn off the top of a chassis such as the tube and transformer identification? On my Scott 299 version 2, the lettering is almost completely work off. Thorne

 

[larryderouin]

I use a Dymo Electronic Label Maker with the clear tape. Adjust the font size to close match. Trimming the decal before install is optional to an extent as it does blend in some. But for those of us with paws an elephant would envy, or pre parkinsons, you might be better off using a scalpel blade after it's on deck and in place.

 

[mroboto]

You made me thing to search about this, and I typed "letters numbers punch" on eBay, and found results for metal punch.

But remove your tubes prior to if you punch.

 

[maxhifi]

I would offer that since it's under a cover during normal operation, I would just use a fine tip sharpie and write very neatly. It will get the job done, and if you don't like it in the future you can always remove it with your preferred solvent. Either that or you're in the territory of dry transfer decals, and other boring things like that.

 

[thornev]

max - I don't have a cover for it although I would offer that after the first year I probably won't be needing (or I'll have memorized) the printed info. I have used a Sharpie on the BOTTOM of all my chassis (is that plural for chassis?) so I don't have to refer to my paper drawings all the time. It would just be a nice touch to have the decals back. I do have extremely nice handwriting however so...

 

[Brice]

I wonder if a letter hand punch would do a good job. You probably need a lot of force to make an imprint to a chassis?

 

[thornev]

There's not much room to get hands in there so it would have to be something at the end of a long, steel rod with the lettering. Not worth spending more time on the topic. Thanks for the responses. Thorne

 

[maxhifi]

max - I don't have a cover for it although I would offer that after the first year I probably won't be needing (or I'll have memorized) the printed info. I have used a Sharpie on the BOTTOM of all my chassis (is that plural for chassis?) so I don't have to refer to my paper drawings all the time. It would just be a nice touch to have the decals back. I do have extremely nice handwriting however so...

So do it, and see how long it takes you to get motivated to take out the acetone, and fix it properly you know what they say, there's nothing more permanent than a temporary repair. If you do it neat enough you can tell people yours is a prototype, and is hand lettered.

 

[kvflyer]

Not necessarily as neat as the factory but you could use an extra fine Sharpie. That way, someone (or you) in the future could remove the markings if they were unwanted. Much less invasive.

 

[1rebmem]

I don't think you'll find a perfect answer but there is this option from Amazon.
Research "dry transfer lettering". Easy to apply but can be scratched easily if not clear coated.

 

[buickguy62]

I've had OK results with an inkjet printer printing on transparent label stock. For durability, I put a layer of clear nail polish over them. Not perfect but decent.
Figured I was smart and use the same process on my EICO HF22's, however the lettering is white, ever tried printing white with an inkjet printer? For those I used white Dry Transfer Decals, (see above), tedious but satisfactory.

 

[1rebmem]

For durability, I put a layer of clear nail polish over them

I like this idea.
Easier than trying to spray rattle can clear coat on the transfer lettering.
Not perfect but decent, like buickguy said.