Replacing tube sockets. Best mounting?

[avguytx]

Not to over think this but when replacing tube sockets on a Magnavox 9304 and Stromberg Carlson ASR-120, is there any advantage to pop riveting them in place versus small nut/bolt/star washer? What's the usual...just whatever's on hand?

 

[gadget73]

I use machine screws, but I guess pops would do too. One thing you can do with the screws is cut and file them down so that they don't stick up past the nut. Makes for a little less chance of something being in the way on the underside.

 

[avguytx]

Works for me. I have a rivet gun and rivets so either would be easy to work with. Was curious what others used. I appreciate it.

 

[bobabode]

Pop rivets here.

 

[coylum]

When refurbishing I replace pop rivets (when used) with 3M x 6mm machine screws, shake-proof washer and nut. No real reason for this choice other than I prefer bolts to rivets!

 

[whoaru99]

I will be using bolts and nuts when I replace the OEM riveted-in sockets in my next project.

 

[avguytx]

I figured it would be a toss up between the two. lol.

 

[Sam Cogley]

I think the factories used rivets for speed more than security. Lots of kit tube gear held the sockets in with screws without issue.

 

[Man in Cave]

S.J.

 

[ferninando]

my pref is screws/nuts.
rivets is too perminent for me.
but my dremel takes them off.

 

[Lavane]

I've used both. When using pop rivets I like to also use thin machine washers as well. Say you are using an 1/8 pop rivet an 1/8" washer will help keep the rivet nice and snug.

 

[sKiZo]

Not a big fan of metal shavings in the chassis, so for me, it's nutz 'n bolts ...

Only complain I ever had is they do tend to stand out from the chassis more than a rivet, and some larger tubes have a tendency to rock. Easy enough to fix with some felt pads ... the little peel 'n stick variety from the local hardware are just the thing.

Whole lot easier than countersinking the screw heads too ...

 

[wa2ise]

If you have a cone shaped tool <|- that can mount in your drill press, you could make cone shaped holes to allow the use of flat head screws. Then the screwheads would be flush with the chassis surface.

 

[Lavane]

Not a big fan of metal shavings in the chassis, so for me, it's nutz 'n bolts ...

Only complain I ever had is they do tend to stand out from the chassis more than a rivet, and some larger tubes have a tendency to rock. Easy enough to fix with some felt pads ... the little peel 'n stick variety from the local hardware are just the thing.

Whole lot easier than countersinking the screw heads too ...

I see you used the flat pan head screws. I use them too. They look much better than the round heads. Cutting the little round felt pads is a nice idea. Thanks for posting. :thmbsp:

 

[whoaru99]

If you have a cone shaped tool <|- that can mount in your drill press, you could make cone shaped holes to allow the use of flat head screws. Then the screwheads would be flush with the chassis surface.

That's a good point, no pun intended. I've done some crude countersinks using just a larger size drill bit. There are specific tools to do that but the drill worked well enough for me.

I think it depends to some degree how successfully one can countersink re. thickness of the metal though.

 

[nerdorama]

I use button head allen machine screws. The allen head makes for nice no slip tightening and the button heads sit fairly low to the top plate.