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Resistors NAD PP2

WernerB

New Member
I use a NAD pp2 with a Project Debut Carbon DC fitted with an Ortofon 2M Blue Mm cartridge.
The total loading capacitance is already fixed at 250uF.
Now I would like to lower the impedance from the standard 47kOhm to 33kOhm to fit the 2M Blue.
Does anyone know what resistors I have to change? Can't find the numbers on the circuitboard .
Thanks in advance.
 
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if its a smd (surface mount) resistor then it may be hard to find, you'd have to have a parts
layout picture with the part's identified on the board. or visual trace of the actual board from
signal input to that (maybe first) resistor/component (in combo with a schematic to id
that path trace).

you can also parallel a 120K resistor to each channel inside the unit. if it works leave
it in. if it doesn't then remove by clipping or unsoldering.

a third way is to buy a two-way connector (two RCA females at one end, and an RCA
male at the other end). take an RCA connector (no cable) and wire the resistor into
the plug. your turntable cable goes into one of the two female RCAs, the wired
resistor plug into the other female RCA, and finally the male RCA into you PP2

repeat for two channels.

you can have a shop do this for you - its only wiring two plugs, you can buy the
components. Maybe even the wired plug itself is available on ebay.

or post a WTB here on AK.
 
Thanks Bob, for your advice!
However I hope there is someone who knows the circuit numbers of the resistors I have to change.
OTOH installing a 120kOhm is a piece of cake......
 
don't muck with the insides unless you have extensive experience. one mistake
and POOF.

external may sound like a lot of work but it cannot destroy like a bad solder joint in
a tiny, tiny SMD unit. and while the instructions sound like more work than
a simple resistor change, it is easer, faster (less soldering - 2 solders vs
2 unsolder PLUS 2 solder), and NO mistakes.

and your unit can be sold in an upgrade & in original unmolested shape.

Here on AK I see a lot of partially destroyed units from folks who didn't start properly
(probably because of lack of experience and knowledge), come here for advice
and not understand, and completely destroy the unit.

hence the recommendation for the external solution.

I for one have been doing this for decades on lethal-voltage tube gear, dense
solid state units, and I don't touch SMD - the hand eye coordination is for
those with 30 year younger eyes, and hands, and NO BEER.

good luck. if you are close (say USA), I can wire the RCAs for you and send them to you
for free, you buy the cable.

PM me.
cable
 
don't muck with the insides unless you have extensive experience. one mistake
and POOF.

external may sound like a lot of work but it cannot destroy like a bad solder joint in
a tiny, tiny SMD unit. and while the instructions sound like more work than
a simple resistor change, it is easer, faster (less soldering - 2 solders vs
2 unsolder PLUS 2 solder), and NO mistakes.

and your unit can be sold in an upgrade & in original unmolested shape.

Here on AK I see a lot of partially destroyed units from folks who didn't start properly
(probably because of lack of experience and knowledge), come here for advice
and not understand, and completely destroy the unit.

hence the recommendation for the external solution.

I for one have been doing this for decades on lethal-voltage tube gear, dense
solid state units, and I don't touch SMD - the hand eye coordination is for
those with 30 year younger eyes, and hands, and NO BEER.

good luck. if you are close (say USA), I can wire the RCAs for you and send them to you
for free, you buy the cable.

PM me.
cable[/QUOT
 
Already changed the capacitors in order to achieve the correct load capacitance .So, I know how to solder. Am experienced in designing and constructing filters for loudspeakers....
However, the tiny resistors of the PP 2 are too tiny for me....can't tell what color-codes they have. ...so, I need the numbers, like R3 or R4.....

And sorry , but I'm a Dutch and live in The Netherlands , so I don't live nearby. ..
 
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OK. you're qualified. you could simply wire the 120Ks from signal to ground at the inputs
to each channel.
 
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