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Restoring the AU-D907G Extra

wmac

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
The amplifier arrived operational but exhibited intermittent noise from oxidized controls. All switches and potentiometers were thoroughly cleaned and treated, after which the issue was completely resolved. The amplifier will then be fully restored as a preventive measure for long-term reliability.

Bellow the picture of it:

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It has a rare technical quirk or let's say trivia.

It mates the Super Feed Forward with floating ground design which later matured into x balanced amplifier line.
 
Yes, you are right just
It has a rare technical quirk or let's say trivia.

It mates the Super Feed Forward with floating ground design which later matured into x balanced amplifier line.
finished restoring an X1. The big issue with this one is accessing the boards; I will have to disassemble everything. :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
Finished working on the drivers and outputs for F-3679 as pic below:

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Now start to work on the power supply F-3673; here is where the fun starts. I have to work for 2 days to remove all the glue and check all components that were affected by it :mad: :mad: :mad:


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Work on the glue is boring so I decided to start and then I went to service the tone board and the speaker selectoras picutres shows.

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This is where I am at the power supply board, half is done and other half I still have to clean :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

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Working on the Power amp board F-3678

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The styro capacitors were removed, and all of them were tested open; they were replaced with PP Film caps 1000pF 160V

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There was that nasty glue everywhere.

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All Zener diodes were damaged by the glue corrosion.


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Took me 2 days to clean this board; once I had to replace some components that were contaminated by the glue, remove most of the others, clean, test, and reinstall. The board is now cleaned:

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F-3678 board is restored, new caps and zeners replaced, and now I am reflowing the solder and cleaning the back.

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Finishing this, it is time to reinstall the board in place and start the calibration :) :) :)
 
Finishing with the F-3679, waiting for the delivery of the polish paste to clean the RCAs and mount everything back to start calibrations and tests.IMG_2797.jpgIMG_2798.jpg
 
These are the boards and capacitor series and brands that were replaced:

Board / PositionOriginalReplacement
F-3677 EQ100 µF / 25 V NichiconVishay MAL214651101E3, 100 µF / 50 V
F-3677 C25/C2647 µF / 10 V NichiconRubycon YXF, 47 µF / 50 V
F-3677 C2110 µF / 50 VRubycon YXF, 10 µF / 100 V
F-3677 C5/C8 factory-mod positions10 µF / 25 V Nichicon SLRubycon YXF, 10 µF / 100 V
F-3677220 µF / 35 V ElnaElna RJH, 220 µF / 35 V
F-3677100 µF / 35 V NCCVishay MAL214651101E3, 100 µF / 50 V
F-3678 power amp470 µF / 100 V Elna “For Audio”Nichicon UFW, 470 µF / 100 V
F-3678 C23470 µF / 50 VPanasonic EEU-FM, 470 µF / 50 V
F-3678 parallel bypass10 nF styreneVishay MKP1837, 10 nF polypropylene
F-3678 C3 / similar1 nF styreneWIMA FKS2, 1 nF / 100 V polypropylene/film replacement actually fitted*
Regulated PSU1000 µF / 63 V NichiconRubycon PX, 1000 µF / 100 V
Regulated PSU470 µF / 50 V Elna AWDNichicon PW, 470 µF / 100 V
Regulated PSU220 µF / 16 VElna RJH, 220 µF / 35 V
F-3679 protection220 µF / 16 V NichiconElna RJH, 220 µF / 35 V
F-36791 µF / 50 V polarized electrolytic1 µF / 100 V WIMA polypropylene film
F-3679100 µF / 6.3 V Nichicon NPElna BP / RSRBD, 100 µF / 50 V bipolar
 
Starting the tests:
First, I'll see if I have any phase issues:
Load is 8 ohms, 100 W

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Change to a square wave, still with an 8-ohm load. Configuration: 1 kHz, 500mV VPP

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Then 10 kHz at the same amplitude

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At 20 kHz


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For the stress and clipping test, I changed the load to 4 ohms, 200W. I could not clip because I had the input at 500mV VPP, but I was satisfied that at full volume I got 68.75 VPP, which is about 148 W. This amp was specified at 130W, so I did not change the input Voltage.

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Then the THD for the same setup with a 4-ohm load:

Measured per channel, at full volume:

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The other channel:

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Now I am going to close the box and listen for a week, and measure the temperature.
 
:rockon: bravo!!

Why were the styro caps dead? Do we know the cause of damage? Glue?
The big styros were open, and I had an accident with the small one, removing the glue, so I replaced both to match the channels with PP film caps.
 
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