Okay....I would like to upgrade my RF35 networks, but after looking at the stock networks I am not sure I will be able to figure out the inductor sizes and how the components will be wired together. I have uploaded some photos of the stock ones in the hopes someone might be able to provide some insight or assistance. Thanks in advance.
RF35 Networks
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SET12
Super Member
I see a lot of similarity of layout to the RF25 schematic I have below. I found an RF3 schematic with nearly the same layout except the tweeter has a 24db/octave crossover. You basically have the same parts count as the RF25
So it looks to me that you have a 12db/octave for the bass.
And 18db/octave for the tweeter.
All values are stamped on the parts with the exception of the Inductors.
I would think you would be able to measure the inductors with the woofers disconnected as well as the tweeters disconnected. And also with nothing connected to the speaker terminals. I would also disconnect the bi amp jumpers. To be really accurate one might want to remove the inductors to measure them but like I said it might not really be necessary.
Since the RF35's are discontinued I would try calling Klipsch Service for a schematic. I think this would be your best bet and would insure you have the correct values for your inductors.
The question is it worth all the fuss? well you certainly don't have to ask me or the people that have done extreme networks even Crites networks have been very satisfying for a lot of people. But if you want something like what DaveC has with his RF25's then extreme it is. And I'm sure he'd tell you he's not going back to stock.
BTW its nice to see some better film caps then what has been used in the past by Klipsch. But I'm sorry to say the inductors and sand cast resistors are another story.
SET12
So it looks to me that you have a 12db/octave for the bass.
And 18db/octave for the tweeter.
All values are stamped on the parts with the exception of the Inductors.
I would think you would be able to measure the inductors with the woofers disconnected as well as the tweeters disconnected. And also with nothing connected to the speaker terminals. I would also disconnect the bi amp jumpers. To be really accurate one might want to remove the inductors to measure them but like I said it might not really be necessary.
Since the RF35's are discontinued I would try calling Klipsch Service for a schematic. I think this would be your best bet and would insure you have the correct values for your inductors.
The question is it worth all the fuss? well you certainly don't have to ask me or the people that have done extreme networks even Crites networks have been very satisfying for a lot of people. But if you want something like what DaveC has with his RF25's then extreme it is. And I'm sure he'd tell you he's not going back to stock.
BTW its nice to see some better film caps then what has been used in the past by Klipsch. But I'm sorry to say the inductors and sand cast resistors are another story.
SET12
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quadklipsh
Super Member
these guys have been with me on this too. iv got the stock RF3s and with help from mr moray james , i did the minimal steps for the horn treatment and it delivered very delightful and welcome results .the stock speaker MUST be modded !!!!
I got suggestions from Moray and SET12 among others on mods to a set of Quartets. I replaced drivers, diaphragms, horn treatments, shored up the cabinets, and replaced the stock networks with Crites built upgrades. They sound great. I've never done any of that kind of modifications before. I actually enjoyed it and the results. I thought I would try building some networks from scratch and figured my RF35, which are stock, would be good candidates. However, there is a lot to take in. Every little variation seems effects some aspect of the sound. I am really running blind at the moment. Looking at a schematic and the stock network is like trying to read Egyptian hieroglyphics right now.
SET12
Super Member
Its not really necessary that you know what the parts do, but know how to hook them up the same way in the schematic. After all many people build their own tube amplifiers from schematics which is certainly far more challenging IMO because of the parts count and the number of connections along with the high voltage to deal with.
I could explain what the parts are doing in the RF25 schematic in layman terms if you'd like?
SET12
I could explain what the parts are doing in the RF25 schematic in layman terms if you'd like?
SET12
Thanks SET12, but like you said, I guess I really don't need to know what they do as much as the correct way to wire them up. I did contact Klipsch and was able to get a network diagram, however, the values are different than those on the actual network board. Perhaps they made changes at some point. Not sure which would be better. and again I still need to figure out how to wire them. Any help is appreciated. I've attached the schematic below.
quadklipsh
Super Member
I could explain what the parts are doing in the RF25 schematic in layman terms if you'd like?
umhmmmm.....plz go ahead
umhmmmm.....plz go ahead
Dave C
Super Member
The woofer section is the same as the RF25 schematic, the tweeter differs a bit. Tell us the values of what's on the crossover board. My RF25's had cross overs that made no sense from the factory and when a tweeter failed they replaced the tweeters and the cross over at N/C for me. The new cross overs had different value caps on them. I think some of these speakers had miss valued cross overs when they were built. SET12 and I looked it all over at that time and figured they messed up on the originals.
It looks like the crossovers that came with the speakers have the following:
One 20 Uf 100V capacitor
One 2.0 Uf 100V capacitor
One 6.5 Uf 100V capacitor
One 3 Ohm 10W resistor
I do not know the values of the two inductors (both appear to be air core).
Any thoughts?
One 20 Uf 100V capacitor
One 2.0 Uf 100V capacitor
One 6.5 Uf 100V capacitor
One 3 Ohm 10W resistor
I do not know the values of the two inductors (both appear to be air core).
Any thoughts?
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Sure! Thanks. Always willing to learn.
I'm still hoping SET12 or DaveC can take a look at my numbers and give me some insight into why the schematic and actual networks from the speakers are different. Is one wrong? I'd like to start buying components but I'm not sure which one to go with. Any help is greatly appreciated!
SET12
Super Member
One inductor is iron core for sure, the other one from the photo could be but I could be seeing what might be a plastic core.
The Sonicaps are really better than what I ever expected to hear you can't go wrong with them. But in the end the better the Mundorf MCap Supreme are just a tad better and of course the higher end is better yet but it is a big price difference.
The resistors IMO should be replaced, I would replace them with the Duelunds they are nearly $60 a pair now but worth every penny. They will enhance dynamics and smoothness. No other resistor is in the same league.
I would give Klipsch another call with the part values that you have to see if they can match it up with the proper schematic. Otherwise perhaps a local electronics repair shop can measure your inductors for you.
SET12
Thank you for the input! It is much appreciated!
