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Rotel RB-5000

blhagstrom

blhagstrom

Mad Scientist, fixer.
Subscriber
Another AK're has the bug for big amps.
He scored a Rotel RB-5000 with a problem.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=648827

Never even heard of them myself.

Thought I'd share some photos of the innards as I work on it and info

Description

The RB-5000 is a powerful amplifier. It can put out a rather incredible big power, which is a definite advantage in realizing very accurate sound reproduction at all listening levels. But the power is only a small indication of the RB-5000's marvellous characteristics.

The RB-5000 is a state of the art product resulting from Rotel's untiring engineering research to create the best. In a true sense, it can be looked upon as a highly sophisticated and complex machine.

The RB-5000 is a pure elegance. No other words may describe it better. The clean, undistorted sound it can reproduce is overwhelmingly impressive. The well-thought electronic circuitry clearly shows a very high level technology. The formidable looking front facia is a sheer joy to watch and touch, also being functionally laid out.

Yet, fundamentally, it is a simple tool for ultimate listening pleasure... something to treasure, the RB-5000 power amplifier.

Specifications

Power output: 500 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo)

Frequency response: 1Hz to 110kHz

Total harmonic distortion: 0.009%

Damping factor: 180

Input sensitivity: 1V

Signal to noise ratio: 120dB

Speaker load impedance: 4Ω to 16Ω

Dimensions: 482 x 240 x 430mm

Weight: 53kg

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Saw a blown 8A fuse and found 7/10 blown outputs on one side. 1/2 of that side (upper/lower cycle amp setup) is almost completely toast. Most of the resisters are out.

Talk is a repair and complete re-cap. We're starting with all new outputs. (MJ15022G/MG15023G).
 
The amp block reminds me of a Borg Cube.
20 outputs.

Makes that Bose 1800 I did a little while back look like a toy.
 
Looks like a beast of a power supply. I'm assuming the larger of the cans are dual torroidal transformers for dual mono? And the main filter caps...22000uF at 120V...(even the 4 470uFs rated at 160V). What are the rails designed for, 100V or so? Either one of those 470s was really poorly sleeved, or there's some serious heat issues in there even with the fan. I like the added touch of feet on the rear panel so you can stand it up and work on the bottom boards.

Definitely keep us updated with lots of photos.

Disregard the 470uF heat issue, on second look, i guess it's a clamp, though the others don't appear to have them.
 
Last edited:
jheu02 said:
Looks like a beast of a power supply. I'm assuming the larger of the cans are dual torroidal transformers for dual mono? And the main filter caps...22000uF at 120V...(even the 4 470uFs rated at 160V). What are the rails designed for, 100V or so? Either one of those 470s was really poorly sleeved, or there's some serious heat issues in there even with the fan. I like the added touch of feet on the rear panel so you can stand it up and work on the bottom boards.

Definitely keep us updated with lots of photos.

Disregard the 470uF heat issue, on second look, i guess it's a clamp, though the others don't appear to have them.
Click to expand...

This has factory wheels on the bottom towards the back!

That clamp is the only one on the four and uses the cap can as a board mount on that side.
Recapping that means I have to restuff to keep the can as a mount!
 
Looking forward to the turn out on this one. Ive been wanting to hear a rotel. One day i'll get my chance. Good luck...and do that beast some justice by getting her going again!
 
Very nice. Found this monster on Internet while searching for my Rotel RB-2000 amp. Good luck with the work.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
A beast of its day for sure, the only other amp I am aware of that had rear wheels was the Lux M-6000.
 
Damage repair

Got parts and sat down and started in on the borg cube (amp block).
Lots of fried parts around the outputs.

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Got the main output boards rebuilt and installed with new outputs.

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Checked the pre-driver board. Found one transistor blown out in the front end. Everything else was OK.

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Recapped the control circuit board, fan control circuit board, protection power supply board and other power supply board. Went to put in new fuses and discovered that many of the fuse holders are weak or broken.It may be hard to see (photos are lousy) but the ears are about ready to snap off.

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Sigh. I'll have to order some. I scavenged one to replace the original broken holder, but now I need a bunch. I am replacing them all in the power supply boards. The other holder on the fan control seems OK. Getting at the fan control is a PITA!

I sorted out the spaghetti wiring enough to get the chassis front back on. There is going to be a lot of harness sorting.
 
Enjoying your restore thread. Glad you got a chance to get this monster running again.


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Well, I got a heart beat.

Found an issue with the input jacks. I had to take them completely out and solder the pieces together. Odd how cheap that part is on something like this.

The amp adjustments are really touchy and unstable. I replaced the pots with multi turns and it seemed better but something is still off.

Looks like the pre-driver has some clowns in the circus. There was a toasty resister that I changed. I found a little previous work. For R6007, R6008, R6009 and R6010, 3 of the 4 had been jumpered out of circuit. Strange.

SO, pull the board again and start a deep test.

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I'm going to have to pull the transistors and test them. They seem on in circuit. There are some 2SC1585 and 2SA798 (zip-5) in the game and I've had some hair pulling moments with those bastages. My money is on these as culprits.

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Horsing a 100+ pound amp around on the bench is a bitch!
 
"Horsing a 100+ pound amp around on the bench is a bitch! "


You know where the quality is so you put up with the weight. That however doesn't displace the dread of lifting up, carrying and putting down again. :tears:
 
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