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RT-909 Restoration: The more I work the worse it gets!

Johnev35

New Member
I need help recovering from some self-induced problems on a Pioneer RT-909 I am restoring. I will start with where things are now, then give the background.

Current state: The unit powers on indicated by the meters being active but none of the transport controls work (play, pause, forward play, reverse play, ff, rewind). I need help with any idea of what to check next because I have hit a wall.

How I got here:
1. After receiving the 909 from Shopgoodwill.com I replaced the drive belt and the pinch rollers because they had disintegrated. I loaded a tape and everything worked: Play, reverse play, record, ff and rewind.

2. I then worked through all the restoration steps described in the amazing post by Rich P. This included all of the mechanical work and a full recap. I also did all of the torque adjustments.

3. Testing at this point showed that play, reverse play, and stop all worked normally. However, when in ff or rewind the Stop button had no effect. Instead of stopping, it would jump from ff to rewind or rewind to ff.

4. I rebuilt the tension mechanisms for a second time because their response was overly damped. I think I overdid it on the lithium grease. After the rebuild, they looked to operate normally based on some YouTube videos I found. When I reassembled and powered up the deck, none of the controls worked. Hence the title of this post. I started with a fully working unit to one that does not work at all and no one to blame but me!

5. One last note: when I was working on the left tension arm I noticed that the white wire to the microswitch had broken off. I don't know if the deck was powered on or not because I had gotten so wrapped up in figuring out the problem. On the chance that it was powered on and the broken wire may have grounded to the frame, I traced the circuit back through the right microswitch to the control board and to the switch board. I pulled any transistor in that path and checked them but they were all ok. I checked 5 or 6 transistors.
 
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The full recap is when the problems started. Obviously you made a mistake when doing that particular work and we don't know what mistake you made. A cap in backwards, a wrong value cap, a broken PCB trace, a bad solder joint, a bridged solder joint, a broken wire, etc. Who knows which?

When a novice is doing a full recap, it is important to do only a few caps at a time. Then power up the deck and confirm that all functions still work as before. If they don't, then you know exactly where to look for the mistake.

All I can say is to re-check every single part that you touched. And bring it to a repair shop if you hit a brick wall.
 
Good point. I know better but got lazy because of the amount of mechanical disassembly to get to some of the boards. Lesson learned! This will keep me busy once the winter weather rolls in. I will just take it board by board and do the inspection and hopefully find where I went wrong.
 
It is not a bad thing to recap these old machines and I have done it and it is of no fun. Probably 3 hours. One thing that stops all transport function that you need to know about is the Tension arm microswitches- they have been known to fail a lot and in my shop where I work on these they get replaced right away- I am not putting my 6 month warranty on any 30-40 year old microswitches. The 24Vdc goes through both these switches in series and also supplies the relay for the reel motor drive. I get them from Mouser and the tension arm damping grease must be restored in all of them anyway. It is not a badly designed unit but there are complexity in them that with aged parts and failure of some parts can be a real headache.
 
If the white wire shorted then the Q214 could have been damaged. The wire if it came from the other microswitch if it was open then would not have cause a problem. The Q214 transistor responsible for 24Vdc regulation also has a 2.65Amp current limit circuit on it as well designed so that when the motor wear down and draws too much current the motor doe snot burn up like in Teac decks but the power supply just folds back at 2.65Amps. I have had to replace this transistor now and then but the 24Vdc if there at lower left side of power board where the heat sink is, if that 24Vdc is there then you need to check on the opposite side where the microswitch return is on that same board. It goes out to the switches and then to the counter board and back to the Power servo and then out to motor and fast relay coil.
 
Sam, thank you for pointing me in the direction of the 24 v supply, it sounds promising. Out of frustration, I set this project aside and went on to a receiver restoration. I am just now wrapping that one up so the timing is good to go back to troubleshooting the RT-909. I will report back what I find.

Regards, John Vercelli
 
Sam, you were right. Q214 is shorted B to E. I ordered a replacement from Mouser and should be able to complete the repair in a couple of days. Best substitute I could find is a TIP122. Thanks again.
 
Happy to report that replacing Q214 brought it back to life. Forward play, reverse play, pause and record all work fine. Now I need to figure out why it won't stop from FF or Rewind. I will repeat the brake adjustment and go from there. I wonder if the electronic braking may have a problem too.
 
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