• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

running a XO rebuild parts list by ya...

Hey Ken, if you were asking a question about the resistors, stick with the non-inductive ceramics like you already have. There was no up-side to the old series-parallel nightmare in our earlier x-overs.
Concentrate on the caps, and re-arrange the inductors as Chris did to avoid stray fields.
 
Ok I am back with these filling my cart as I want to get all my projects wrap up in the next few weeks, as far as speaker rebuilds. I have these QLS-1's that I am recapping and replacing all the mid domes with new NOS ones. But I have noticed a difference on mine from both the spec sheet and Chris's. My EMIT's the spec schematic shows three caps, a 2.5, 1.75, and a 1.25. Yet mine has three 2.5's and one 1.25. Should I copy what I have or follow the specs, any one have an opinion? And rather than rearranging the inductors can't you install a shielding of some sort.

If you look at the picture I posted when I first started on the left right above those pots you can see clearly there are four caps, these are all wired into the selector for the crossover of the EMIT's three of them are the same, 2.5's and then one 1.25. By the looks of the way they wired them, the two 2.5uf's are wired in a series, then the one 2.5 and then the 1.25. I am thinking just follow the specs rather than copy this.
 
Last edited:
i would stick with the three different values in the spec sheet. i think i have seen something like that before, but the way the spec sheet has it makes the most sense. you'll probably end up sticking with the middle crossover point anyway.
 
i would stick with the three different values in the spec sheet. i think i have seen something like that before, but the way the spec sheet has it makes the most sense. you'll probably end up sticking with the middle crossover point anyway.

I have mainly used the middle crossover when using them. Chris if I recall, you used a bunch of caps in parallel for your Waktins to come up with the final value, I am wondering and I also asked this over at the manufactors thread, can you not use a cap like the one linked below or is it not audio grade and not work well? It sure would be a lot easier and neater.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22U3BqEK3KIgOEyiy5l1a0ZQ=
 
I have mainly used the middle crossover when using them. Chris if I recall, you used a bunch of caps in parallel for your Waktins to come up with the final value, I am wondering and I also asked this over at the manufactors thread, can you not use a cap like the one linked below or is it not audio grade and not work well? It sure would be a lot easier and neater.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22U3BqEK3KIgOEyiy5l1a0ZQ=

Those Spragues are NOT non-polar caps like the originals and won't work in speakers. You'll need a bunch of NPE's in parallel like Chris used, or measure your existing caps to see if they're still in spec.
 
Quantum 2 rebuild here: measure the woofer coils. Both speakers measure 14mH, yet every diagram shows 20 mH. They don't 'age' as far as I know. And both show same value. Has anyone else measured the L? Or heard about deviation from drawing values to actual values?
 
Looks like paper (fairly rough). In fact, I haven't even seen a Quantum 2 with poly.
 

Attachments

  • 271706440_10166428652060647_735787894662069166_n.jpg
    271706440_10166428652060647_735787894662069166_n.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 1
  • PXL_20240410_002154343.jpg
    PXL_20240410_002154343.jpg
    116 KB · Views: 1
Back
Top Bottom