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Sansui 250 amp - weak and scratchy/distorted in one channel

Mikescud

New Member
Hi folks,

I've had this sansui valve amp as my preferred amp for many years. One day, i went off to travel south america and ended up getting married! We came back to visit the family after 7 years and took the amp back with us to Brazil. So it sat unused for years, i tested it out for about 30 minutes and was surprised that everything was fine - great infact (this is before we travelled back).

So we arrived home (Brazil) and i wanted to test it out to check that it survived the journey (checked luggage 'fragile'). All i had were headphones - no speakers. Switched the voltage to 117v (i measured the mains) from 220v. Made sure everything was seated and cranked it on... massive hummm left channel. I thought its got to be a grounding issue as our house is old and doesnt have 3 'pronged' plugs which means no earth.

So i just bought some nice bookshelfs and went to resolve the 'grounding issue'. i ran a line directly from a copper grounding rod to a special 3 pronged socket - just for my little sansui!! BUT, it didn't make a difference while testing with headphones. So i figured i'd just see how it was with the speakers attached... with the speakers, the hum is faint and wouldn't interfere with normal listening - infact, i was thinking its always had that little hum (but this hum renders the headphones unusable).

When i started listening to some music it immediately became apparent that the left channel was very weak. If i compensated for this with the balance control that channel has a bit of distortion (compensated = balance knob almost entirely turned left!).

So i did some reading up...

I tried various sources, fm radio, aux, tape monitor - no change.
I disconnected the ground i made - no change.
swapped power valves around - no change.
With unit off, worked on the swicthes - on/off 20 times etc
Worked the pots - listened to the volume and balance knobs (no music) to try and hear if anything changes - no change.
With music the weakness remains constant through the range of volume pot.


The right channel is perfect.
Its not the speakers (i swapped them)
Never had issue with pots
Never swapped out anything while i've had it.
All the caps and resistors look original.
All the valves glow healthily (its magic isnt it?!) EXCEPT for the preamp valve (12ax7/ecc83). This preamp valve almost looks like theres nothing on - only on close close inspection can i see a couple of 'points' lit up. But it doesnt appear burnt or discoloured.

Maybe i've just answered my own question?! But what do you guys think?

Like i said, i did some reading up and read others commenting that it was unlikely to be a valve issue and more likely to be caps, resistors, or pots etc

What should i try next? I'm no stranger to a soldering iron if need be - and prefer to learn and do things myself. Plus the fact that there wouldn't be a valve specialist for at least 600 miles from where we live!

Any thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
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Hello. Is that preamp valve (ECC83) driving just one channel, or is the same valve for both channels?

If it drives just one channel, of course you know already, you should swap it with the other channel. A Valve problem will move with the Valve, an electrical problem in the circuit will stay on the same channel.

HI VOLTAGES IN THERE, DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE THE AMP, SPECIALLY AN AMP THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AS IT SHOULD, VOLTAGES CAN BE WHEREVER, INCLUDING PLACES SUPPOSED TO BE SAFE.

If you have an electrical problem in the circuit, you will need a Multimeter and measure inside a live unit to trace the fault. I don't know if you feel confident with that...
 
Hello. Is that preamp valve (ECC83) driving just one channel, or is the same valve for both channels?

If it drives just one channel, of course you know already, you should swap it with the other channel. A Valve problem will move with the Valve, an electrical problem in the circuit will stay on the same channel.

HI VOLTAGES IN THERE, DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE THE AMP, SPECIALLY AN AMP THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AS IT SHOULD, VOLTAGES CAN BE WHEREVER, INCLUDING PLACES SUPPOSED TO BE SAFE.

If you have an electrical problem in the circuit, you will need a Multimeter and measure inside a live unit to trace the fault. I don't know if you feel confident with that...

Hey, thanks for the reply...

Yeah this amp uses just the one preamp valve so no swaps. I ordered a new one day. I'll try this first considering the barely noticeable
light it gives off... its just not what i expected from a failing valve but at the same time kinda obvious. I read that they get a burnt appearance or opaque so thats what i was looking out for, but then read that some short and give a hum.

Thanks,

Mike
 
You can have a perfectly fine filament (the light) and the tube can be dead from just being worn out or internal shorts. Discoloration doesn't really mean much except for a white getter. Then the tube has leaked out it's vacuum and is absolutely no good.

If all of the caps internally look original, it's a certainty that at least one of those oil caps or electrolytics have died. Take a couple of pictures 1/2way close up and we'll be able to tell you what's original and what's NOT original. The caps, if original are pushing 50 now. They should have been replaced no later than 20-25. I remember when my 1000A decided it was the 4th of JULY and almost all of the internal P.I.O. caps blew out. It sounded like a 50cal Browning going off and paper was flying in strips all over. Luckily I had it on a DBT and variac (this was the initial startup for testing before rehab).

Get some pics up and we'll tell ya what you most likely need to do to get it back up.
 
And as Larry says, "Get some pics..." Let me say that if the capacitors, especially coupling capacitors are "Elna" or Suzuki" brand, they are paper in oil and leaky. That is you most likely problem. They are gray in color, and they look very much like an electrolytic capacitor. They are not electrolytic, rather paper, and need to be replaced!
 
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