Thank you! I have not powered on the receiver yet because I already was told it did not work and I am waiting on fuses to be delivered.Yes, those 220 Ohm resistors are fusibles and all 4 will need changed out. I would use 1/2 watt metal film. Also, since your bulb stays lit pretty good, check all the output transistors, especially for shorts. The 2SA726 transistors also need to be changed out since they are known to get noisy with age and cause "snap crackle and pop" noises. They can be a matched (or closely matched) pair of KSA992. If any of the output transistors are shorted, check the emitter resistors, the yellow - purple - gold - gold ones. They should be 0.47 Ohms, or read almost a "short". But anything close will be fine. If they measure over about 1.5 ohms, replace them too. Then you'll have to check all the other transistors including the driver transistors since they take the brunt of a shorted output, along with possibly a few other resistors in the path. There's not a whole lot on the driver board so it won't take very long to check everything. Also note there are a few fusible resistors on the main board too that will need replaced. No need to "test" them, just yank them and replace since they are well known to go bad. Regarding your DBT, that appears to be a 40 watt appliance bulb. Nothing "wrong" with that for this unit, but expect a slight faint glow. A camera can be deceiving on it's "brightness" because they "see" infrared and it shows up making a filament appear brighter than it actually is. You didn't mention if you replaced the fuses, but I assume you did.
I'm pretty sure that's just flux. You can clean it off with isopropyl and q-tips.There is some corrosion on circuit board F-2701 backside.
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Yes, it cleaned up easily with some isopropyl alcohol.I'm pretty sure that's just flux. You can clean it off with isopropyl and q-tips.
I see no corrosion there, just flux. It's fine, you can leave it if you like.There is some corrosion on circuit board F-2701 backside.
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2SA and 2SB are PNPOK, thanks! I found the circuit board with them now. I guess I need to look for the transistor data sheet to see if they are NPN or PNP and test.
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I tested one of the big metallic transistors labeled NEC D188A mounted to the heat sink and it appears to not meet test requirements for PNP type. The multimeter displays OL in diode testing mode when I put the positive lead on the metal case and the negative lead to either of the terminals.although its best to check those its those big ones that screw to the heatsink you should check first .
thats because its npnI tested one of the big metallic transistors labeled NEC D188A mounted to the heat sink and it appears to not meet test requirements for PNP type. The multimeter displays OL in diode testing mode when I put the positive lead on the metal case and the negative lead to either of the terminals.