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Sansui 9090 Protection Indicator Light Question

Man in Cave

Man in Cave

Live in music and let music live in you.
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I just bought this receiver. After I power up the unit the protection Indicator lights red, flashes and then goes out. The relay clicks. However, no green light lights. Here's my questions:

Could the green lamp be burned out?

There's no jumpers in the "pre out" and "main in" connections. Could this be why the green light doesn't light?

Thanks in advance.

MIC
 
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It's not the missing jumpers. If the relay clicks it's out of protection. It could be a bummed out bi-color LED but also commonly an out of spec current limiter resistor on the protection circuit board.
I'd verify the 1.5KΩ R12 and R08/11 and then the 220KΩ R09/10 on F2547. See the upper right section of the diagram, the part that goes to the LED on F2548

BBep8YN.jpg
 
tnsilver said:
It's not the missing jumpers. If the relay clicks it's out of protection. It could be a bummed out bi-color LED but also commonly an out of spec current limiter resistor on the protection circuit board.
I'd verify the 1.5KΩ R12 and R08/11 and then the 220KΩ R09/10 on F2547. See the upper right section of the diagram, the part that goes to the LED on F2548

BBep8YN.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks for responding, tnsilver. What a gorgeous receiver when lit up. All other lights appear to work, only the green protection light doesn't. This weekend I'll connect speakers and a source to see if I hear anything. If I do I will assume it's a burnt lamp. Logic tells me I won't hear a sound if the protection stays engaged, even when the green light doesn't light. The fella that brought this beast out, struggling to set it on the shelf, said he tested it with speakers and it worked. Yes, I bought it untested. I'll test it Saturday.

I would imagine there's a source for buying the replacement lamp and jumpers?

MIC
 
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tnsilver said:
It's not the missing jumpers. If the relay clicks it's out of protection. It could be a bummed out bi-color LED but also commonly an out of spec current limiter resistor on the protection circuit board.
I'd verify the 1.5KΩ R12 and R08/11 and then the 220KΩ R09/10 on F2547. See the upper right section of the diagram, the part that goes to the LED on F2548

BBep8YN.jpg
Click to expand...
Possibly a dirty speaker relay contact as well. This relay has 3 sets of contacts one set is used for illumination of the red LED (NC contacts), and illumination of the green LED is from the NO contacts. I suggest tapping on the relay to see if the green comes on at all.
 
Man in Cave said:
Thanks for responding, tnsilver. What a gorgeous receiver when lit up. All other lights appear to work, only the green protection light doesn't. This weekend I'll connect speakers and a source to see if I hear anything. If I do I will assume it's a burnt lamp. Logic tells me I won't hear a sound if the protection stays engaged, even when the green light doesn't light. The fella that brought this beast out, struggling to set it on the shelf, said he tested it with speakers and it worked. Yes, I bought it untested. I'll test it Saturday.

I would imagine there's a source for buying the replacement lamp and jumpers?

MIC
Click to expand...
As Tom says. Look at R12 first. The red will still flash if R12 is bad, but won't illuminate the green when the relay clicks.
 
Last night I hooked up to speakers and a turntable. The right channel appears dead. Haven't checked fuses or anything yet. I used the speaker A terminals. I'll try the others to see if I get the same results. I'm not a tech but I can try a few things. Bummer. I have a decision to make.

MIC
 
Man in Cave said:
Last night I hooked up to speakers and a turntable. The right channel appears dead. Haven't checked fuses or anything yet. I used the speaker A terminals. I'll try the others to see if I get the same results. I'm not a tech but I can try a few things. Bummer. I have a decision to make.

MIC
Click to expand...
With the volume down low, start working some switches to see if any "life" appears in the Right channel. Start with the TAPE 1 switch and run it in and out a few dozen times. Or put it on FM with the Mute button in (Mute off) and see if there is a right channel, along with working the switches.
 
Skywatcher said:
With the volume down low, start working some switches to see if any "life" appears in the Right channel. Start with the TAPE 1 switch and run it in and out a few dozen times. Or put it on FM with the Mute button in (Mute off) and see if there is a right channel, along with working the switches.
Click to expand...

I'll work them all. Thanks. I'll connect a CD player too.


MIC
 
If either channel works at all, it's not in protection. What you have there is ordinary channel dropout typically due to dirty contacts in the pre amp signal path. You need to clean all the controls. Almost ANY of the knobs or switches on the front panel can cause this issue if dirty. There are many, many existing threads on troubleshooting this kind of dropout. Use the forum search function and start reading.

Your green LED not coming on has nothing to due with the channel drop out. It's most likely that R12 on the protection board is open.

- Pete
 
I'm pleased to say I've made some progress. When I bought this it had no jumpers. I found one jumper in my stash and I used it in the top connectors of the pre-out and main in. Well I pulled the jumper and got nothing. Plugged it back in and got sound from the left channel. So I moved it to the other connectors. And my right channel came in. Now I know what I can do. I need another jumper. I don't think I have one. Without the jumper I get nothing. Thanks for all the help AKers. It's much appreciated. I'm so happy it's not a dead channel. I'll add that all the switches and knobs have been worked over. I hear absolutely no noise, crackly or otherwise, working them.

MIC
 
I don't know if "jumper" is the correct word. The u shaped metal pieces that plug into the "main in" and "pre-out" connections. I only have one. Can I use a substitute like an RCA connector or something?
 
IMG_0140.JPGIMG_0158.JPG

So here it is, connected to a pair of NLAs, and sounding beautiful. It sounds much better with loudness engaged. Not used to that. I used one RCA cable as a jumper.

MIC
 
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Nice figuring out you just needed an rca cable to be the jumper.

The resistor is burned out, change it and the green light will work. Or maybe you have a top ½% unit where it is not the resistor.
 
While you are looking inside, look over the tuner power supply the top left front board and see if it looks like burned up components. One I had here was a mess and got a rebuild.
 
Man in Cave said:
I don't know if "jumper" is the correct word. The u shaped metal pieces that plug into the "main in" and "pre-out" connections. I only have one. Can I use a substitute like an RCA connector or something?
Click to expand...
Yep, jumper is the correct term. I buy short 6" RCA cables to use as jumpers when the originals are missing. Short ones are a lot less "unruly" than longer ones that get entangled so easily.
 
FWIW, factory style jumpers are available on *that auction site*. Yes, you can roll your own from a couple of RCA plugs and some cable. Only the center (pin) conductor needs connection as that's all the stock jumpers did anyway.
 
Audioquest and maybe others make jumpers (cables with RCA plugs) and some like em better than stock U jumpers. Rolling your own can also be done with some 8Ga copper wire used as grounding wires in homes so the available at some hardware stores by the foot or less.
 
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