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Sansui AU-217 repair

I'm wondering if anybody has had trouble with the protection relay. I had a bad one in a D5 that was causing problems.

Are these one of those parts that should normally be replaced in a AU 217?

Looks like Mouser may have a replacement.

The one in my AU 217 says. Omron - TYPE MY4 - 02 - US - DC 24

EDIT II:
I'm seeing AUD101 recommending this one in another post.

Mouser Part # 653-MY4-02DC24
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/MY4-02-DC24/?qs=/ha2pyFadujFjQ2HQ4/LDpdikKFMa3IKzdrt8dRRPZvNppwzJQIpjA==

Again NA! :p
 
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After a nice holiday to the Yorkshire Dales, back to the Sansui.

I just now spot that the 2SA798 has 5 poles and the KSA992 has only 3. So I assume that I bind 2 of the KSA995 together at the base pole? And is it bad that I can't find matched pairs in the Netherlands? They're so cheap I can just order double the amount and match them myself.
 
I'm wondering if anybody has had trouble with the protection relay. I had a bad one in a D5 that was causing problems.

Are these one of those parts that should normally be replaced in a AU 217?

Looks like Mouser may have a replacement.

The one in my AU 217 says. Omron - TYPE MY4 - 02 - US - DC 24

EDIT II:
I'm seeing AUD101 recommending this one in another post.

Mouser Part # 653-MY4-02DC24
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron/MY4-02-DC24/?qs=/ha2pyFadujFjQ2HQ4/LDpdikKFMa3IKzdrt8dRRPZvNppwzJQIpjA==

Again NA! :p

My relay seems to be working fine. It clicks on and off exactly when it should, thank the Lord.:angel:
 
I have also found out that if I tap C12 ( 6.3v 47uf ) with a slightly magnetic screwdriver it makes a noise, on my throw-away speaker, like touching a 3.5mm connector. Ecery other C I've tried is clean though. Could that be the actual cause of the problem?

Edit:

C11, the same C but for the other channel makes the same noise
 
After a nice holiday to the Yorkshire Dales, back to the Sansui.

I just now spot that the 2SA798 has 5 poles and the KSA992 has only 3. So I assume that I bind 2 of the KSA995 together at the base pole? And is it bad that I can't find matched pairs in the Netherlands? They're so cheap I can just order double the amount and match them myself.
no .. connect the emitters together .. match them first .
 
I have also found out that if I tap C12 ( 6.3v 47uf ) with a slightly magnetic screwdriver it makes a noise, on my throw-away speaker, like touching a 3.5mm connector. Ecery other C I've tried is clean though. Could that be the actual cause of the problem?

Edit:

C11, the same C but for the other channel makes the same noise
it will do that .. capacitor likely is good .
 
After a nice holiday to the Yorkshire Dales, back to the Sansui.

I just now spot that the 2SA798 has 5 poles and the KSA992 has only 3. So I assume that I bind 2 of the KSA995 together at the base pole? And is it bad that I can't find matched pairs in the Netherlands? They're so cheap I can just order double the amount and match them myself.

You need to tie the emitters together for the center position not the base.

Like this.


Tie together with heat sink compound.

(I <-- flip one transistor around.
I)

B
C
E < --LEADS TIED TOGETHER
C
B
 
Parts are ordered. Just ordered a bunch of the KSA992 as they're so cheap. Will update when they arrive and when I start working on it.
Might even post some pics :p
 
Hm. Parts came in and had some soldering funtime. The right channel isn't fluctuating anymore but now it's at a solid 330mV (I did the 'm' right:banana:) and that's a tad high.
The protection relay kicks in every half minute or so and opens up after a few seconds.

The parts I replaced are:


Part Old New
IC 01, 02 2SA798 KSA992
VS 01, 02 VD1212 IN4148TA
R 39 ~ 42 220Ohm 1/4W 220Ohm 1/2W
R 43 ~ 46 6.8Ohm 1/4W 6.8Ohm 1/2

+2 pics ;)
20160727_170451.jpg 20160727_194039.jpg
 
Think I'm gonna order some freeze spray and hit all the condensers.

EDIT:

If anyone knows some likely culprits I'd like to order them directly to save some shipping costs..
All help is greatly appreciated. Awesome folks here!
 
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I've just been measuring some stuff in there and I noticed that D611 through D614 (30D2 Diode) seems to be open both ways, now as far as I understand a diode should be open only one way. Do these need to be replaced as well?
 
test on diode test with your meter .. rectifier diodes measure about 600mv one way . some zeners measure differently . maybe 700mv but still one way .
schottky diodes measure lower . but unlikely to be in your amp .
 
test on diode test with your meter .. rectifier diodes measure about 600mv one way . some zeners measure differently . maybe 700mv but still one way .
schottky diodes measure lower . but unlikely to be in your amp .

Meter is definitely on diode test. One way measures between 550 and 570.
Other way it steadily goes up over 1900. Don't really get it.

8 other diodes in there react exactly the same
D601~604 1n34a
D605~610 10D1
 
readings like that lead me to believe you are testing in circuit and measuring a capacitor discharging .
if so the diodes appear fine to me .
diodes most times fail short or open . and not leaky .
 
Ok got the freeze spray today. Replaced two more transistors (2sa726) with KSA992's. Speaker DC at right channel is still at 300mV. No more parts responding to freeze spray though. I'm kinda at a loss what to do now. Left channel is still at a very nice +-5mV
 
the 2SB528's look look kinda bad though. The metal looks a bit corroded. Are they known to fail over time? No response to freeze spray..
 
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