Sansui BA-2000 Wrong parts list

[ivo]

Hi everybody! I just got this monster. I already got a Sansui C2101 preamp, which I recapped, changed some relays, or just cleaned; some diodes on the power supply were replaced as well. Also, very important the Volume control pot was replaced with new one 4 pins unit. The preamps is ok now.
I got this BA-2000 from Marketplace for $300 in very bad, tragic condition, obviously kept in the garage or shed for years and years.
So I plugged it into the dim bulb tester; the light was bright for a second, then went down, and both of the protected relays clicked!! What a surprise, doesn't it?! After connecting to the source, there wasn't any sound or noise from the speakers. Ok, I put it on the bench and measured some terminals. There are four points on the power supply for the positive and negative rails. The power should be +55 and -55; I measured +57 and -57, which I'm assuming is good. That means the transformer and the big 12000uF caps work, and the base rectifiers are good too, if I get these measurements (+57V and- 57V) on the main power supply output...
Took out the board F-2631(Power supply for driver stage) and F-2661 (driver stage). All fuse resistors are bad on both boards. Also, some of the carbon film resistors are ruined and need replacement. I chose to replace all of them with Metal film resistors from Mouser. Is that right?? Am I on the right track?
The problem is that in the schematic diagram, some of these resistors on the F-2661 are shown as 1.2k, but the real devices on the board are 1k. Which one is correct??
Is there anybody with experience with this nice amplifier?
I'm wondering how to continue: to replace these with 1.2k as they are in the diagram, or to replace with the same physical 1K resistors.
Thanks for any help or ideas!!!

 

[mroboto]

Edit:

Use 1K as installed, not 1.2K as schematics, I think it's the purple here that shows schematics values that are wrong.

 

[LBPete]

It's not uncommon for Sansui to make running changes during production. Don't rely on the schematic or parts list. Unless there is obvious prior work on the board, use the board as the template to determine the parts in your build.

- Pete

 

[ivo]

Thanks, guys! There is no 1.2k resistor on the board. Part list: R57, R55, R58, and R56 are 1.2k, but on the board they are marked with Brown, Black, and red, which is 1K.
I'll follow LBPete's advice, and I'll replace them with 1K metal film resistors.
Will post the result here, but this will take me some time. I need to test all the transistors and capacitors there.

 

[ivo]

Use 1.2K as installed, not 1K as schematics, I think it's the purple here

I expanded the photo, and there is a very clear view of the color code under the purple dot, and it is Brown, black, and Red. This is 1K. And the color under the green dot, which is marked as 1K, is the same: Brown, black, and red. So, in this photo, all of these are 1K, obviously.
Why is the purple dot marked as 1.2K, and the green as 1K an enigma?

 

[mroboto]

I edited my post after, I inverted by mistake, sorry.

It was 1K on the board and 1.2K on schematics

I noted as it reads on the schematics on the picture, instead of reading values, so the purple dots marks the 1K that are marked as 1.2K on schematics.

But the difference is not a big deal, I by mistake flowed the schematics values approx 15 years ago in my AU-11000A, because that was the parts I ordered and installed without noticing any consequences, but I do not often use it, for now, because there is very often another amp stacked on top of it (Too many amps for my shelves) and it can't run without proper air flow, even biased 10% lower than manual says.