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Sansui G-5500 DOA. HELP!!!

Ryan_Mort

New Member
Hello all, I'm a long time lurker turned new member. I recently purchased a Sansui G-5500. The seller said it worked when he shipped it. It was packed very well with plenty of padding, bubble wrap, packing peanuts, double boxed, etc. and it didn't look like it had been dropped (but who really knows). It took me nearly 30 minutes to unbox it. Anyway, I plugged it in and pushed the power button and nothing happened. I've replaced the fusses and still not luck. I've tried wiggling power switch/wires to see if there is a short or something came loose but nothing happens. I'm hoping some of you might have suggestions on what I can try. I've carefully cleaned the circuit boards with air while I've had it apart. Minus a pencil wedged inside (not sure what for), everything looks nice and tidy including solder joints, there isn't any evidence of burnt parts on the circuit boards or anything like that. Is there some points I could test with a multi-meter? Anyway, let me know what you think and thank you for the help! I can provide pictures if you need a closer look.
 

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have you owned a vintage receiver before?
Their a little different in operation.
Make sure the "Tape Mon" switches are out.
Use an input like a CD player to the "Aux" input making sure you have the "Aux" selected.
Make sure you have the "Speaker" switch you have the speakers selected to pushed in.
Do you hear a click of the protection relay?
 
The
have you owned a vintage receiver before?
Their a little different in operation.
Make sure the "Tape Mon" switches are out.
Use an input like a CD player to the "Aux" input making sure you have the "Aux" selected.
Make sure you have the "Speaker" switch you have the speakers selected to pushed in.
Do you hear a click of the protection relay?

This will be my first vintage receiver. The receiver doesn't power on at all (no lights or noise). I thought I'd try it first with just headphones (both speaker switches off) and a turntable. I plugged the turntable into one of the power outlets on the back and it didn't power the turntable. Could it be an issue with the switch? It's like power isn't even coming into the unit.
 
If the switched outlet is not switching on, the power switch is bad. Do you have the know how to bypass it? Try the unswitched outlet. Do you get power there? If not, the cord could be bad.
Do you have a meter to test continuity?

The pencil is putting pressure on the speaker relay. Probably because the contacts are bad and pressure on the relay makes them connect.
The relay needs to be replaced. The relay is probably around $15.

Rob
 
If the switched outlet is not switching on, the power switch is bad. Do you have the know how to bypass it? Try the unswitched outlet. Do you get power there? If not, the cord could be bad.
Do you have a meter to test continuity?

The pencil is putting pressure on the speaker relay. Probably because the contacts are bad and pressure on the relay makes them connect.
The relay needs to be replaced. The relay is probably around $15.

Rob
Thank you so much Rob! I first tried plugging the turntable into the unswitched outlet and got power. Then I bypassed the power switch and sure enough it started right up when I plugged it in. Any idea where I can buy a new switch and speaker relay? Thank you so much for your help!
 
There are a couple power switches on E-bay that may work. Search Sansui power switch. Look at the G-7700 and AU-D7 switch. Also a couple new replacements that may work.

What's the part number on the relay? Mouser or Digi-Key should have one that will work. If you can't find a replacement, post the part number and we can help you out.
These are PCB mount relays.

Rob
 
Hi Rob, the part number from the service manual is RL601 and stock numbers are 1150400 and 1150480 (I don't know if these are necessary). From what I can tell by googling this, RL601 is the location on the circuit board not the part number. I found a posting here on audio karma that someone replace the RL601 with a OMRON MY4-02-DC24 on Sansui AU-517. Do know if that same relay work? Thank you for the info for the switch. Would you recommend switching out the capacitor that is on the power switch? The capacitor says 333M 250V, I looked for that value but wasn't able to find anything but 333Ks. Thanks again for your help.
 
Get the number off the relay.

A capacitor marked 333M is 33nf or .033uf with an M tolerance. A 333K would have a tighter tolerance, and may be used. I would just use the old one.

Rob
 
Hi Rob,

I changed out the power switch and it works so thank you so much for the help. I've snapped a photo of the relay. The best I can tell it says FRL-264 D024/04??-01. From a google search I think it might be AL that I can't read. I really wish I could get a better picture but after nearly a dozen shots, this was the best I could get. Thanks again for your help.
 

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You're welcome.

Well, I would guess that is a 24 volt DC relay. Looking at the board layout in the service manual, I would say an Omron my4-02-dc24 would work.

You may have to snip off the unused pins so it will fit into the board.

Mouser has them for around $12.

Rob
 
Awesome! I'll get it order and replaced and the report. I finally got a set of speakers to go along with this amp. The left speaker will play for about 10 minutes and then stop working. Could that be an issue with the relay? I've been troubleshooting it and I think it is the speaker itself (I'm not have the best luck with this stereo stuff, maybe it's a sign). Could that be a bad crossover? Do speakers "overheat"? Anyway, that's just created another project (yay). I can't thank you again for all of your help. I appreciate you taking time out of your busy life!
 
You're welcome.

Well, I would guess that is a 24 volt DC relay. Looking at the board layout in the service manual, I would say an Omron my4-02-dc24 would work.

You may have to snip off the unused pins so it will fit into the board.

Mouser has them for around $12.

Rob

Hi Rob, I replaced the relay...and now no sound comes out, not even the headphone jack. The soldering looks clean and nothing crosses over. Any idea where I messed up?
 
Well, it has a 24 volt zener diode in parallel with the coil, so I assumed it was a 24 volt relay. It may be a 48 volt relay.
The 24 would still trip with 48 volts, but wont last. Check the voltage across the relay coil while you power it up and see what happens.
If it turns out it needs to be a 48 volt relay, I can send you a used one that is in good shape. Contacts were cleaned with an erasure, and pass a meter test.

If you don't get a voltage across the coil, there could be something else going on.

Rob
 
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