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Sansui G3500 no left channel

Stereoboy70

Stereoboy70

Active Member
Hello all. I acquired a g3500 and I have no leftchannel. Replaced TR15,16,17,18 ,9,10
TR 09 was bad. Also replaced several caps.Fuses are good. Checked bias current per manual
Positive lead on R77 + and neg lead on R79- No reading. Nada. Pot all the way CCW or cw itdoesn’t matter Both channels. But……. I have a R channel and good sound. Traced both channels from speaker selector switch and they are ok.Checked the wipers on the switch. Ok
Cleaned all switches very well. I’m wondering if is in the tape switch. Very nice unit I want to keep.I eventually replaced all the transistors on the power board and more caps but still no sound on the L channel. Any other ideas?? Thanks in advance.
 
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Are you saying that you have both channels on the speaker selector switch? If so, it's the switch or a wire broke off the switch.

This switch is the last thing in the signal path before the speaker terminals.


Rob
 
Robisme said:
Are you saying that you have both channels on the speaker selector switch? If so, it's the switch or a wire broke off the switch.

This switch is the last thing in the signal path before the speaker terminals.


Rob
Click to expand...
I will check the switch. But I did notice last night that when I try to plug in the left speaker my DBT goes super bright. Still sounds like a bad component in the L channel.
 
Stereoboy70 said:
Well at least both channels have new components. Probably needed after 40 years.
Click to expand...
Lol, maybe, maybe not, and you still have the problem! :rflmao:

Test the output transistors and drivers. :beerchug:

I am still using 60 year old tube amps with original parts and tubes that still work great but then again, I have had the stuff tested recently and things are not that much out of tolerance. They could probably use new caps and resistors but they are still playing loud, clear, and hum free.:thumbsup:
 
cademan said:
Lol, maybe, maybe not, and you still have the problem! :rflmao:

Test the output transistors and drivers. :beerchug:

I am still using 60 year old tube amps with original parts and tubes that still work great but then again, I have had the stuff tested recently and things are not that much out of tolerance. They could probably use new caps and resistors but they are still playing loud, clear, and hum free.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I have replaced all of the Transistors on the power board including the 4 main drivers. And most of the caps. I also replaced a bad resistor that was fried. I’ve got a short in the L channel somewhere because when I hook up the speaker my DBT gets super bright. I always use mouser parts and never EBay clones. I’ve been bit before
 
cademan said:
Lol, maybe, maybe not, and you still have the problem! :rflmao:

Test the output transistors and drivers. :beerchug:

I am still using 60 year old tube amps with original parts and tubes that still work great but then again, I have had the stuff tested recently and things are not that much out of tolerance. They could probably use new caps and resistors but they are still playing loud, clear, and hum free.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
The 2 dual transistors at Ic 01,02 tested good
I use a small multi function tester for all my transistors and caps. Thanks.
 
If you connect a speaker to the left and the DBT gets bright, it has to be a shorted transistor, usually an output because it seem like you are getting DC to the left speaker.
 
cademan said:
If you connect a speaker to the left and the DBT gets bright, it has to be a shorted transistor, usually an output because it seem like you are getting DC to the left speaker.
Click to expand...
Got it!!!!!! I found a crap resistor on the left channel. It measured about 300 M Replaced it. All good now. Thanks for the input. Now to set the bias. Sometimes I just need to talk it out.
 
Still c
cademan said:
If you connect a speaker to the left and the DBT gets bright, it has to be a shorted transistor, usually an output because it seem like you are getting DC to the left speaker.
Click to expand...
Still cannot get a mV reading for the bias
Hooking up exactly as the service manual describes. No v reading. I’ll keep dicking with it.
 
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