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Sansui HF-V60 tube power amp & PR-330 tube preamp/tuner restoration

Simply beautiful! Here's hoping it sounds as good as it looks! :thumbsup:

I can already answer that one; the sound fantastic. Maybe best I own but I am holding off making that claim until I listen a little longer. We may dethrone the 777A with this set...

Back to the rebuild, one of the most obvious things on both HF-V60 is a pair of cooked looking resistors.
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And here is the pair from the other HFV60:
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I peeled off the plastic cover and found it is only the cover that is brown. Nevertheless it is suspicious; in one amp they measured 50kOhm (as they should) and in the other amp both had gone high value to ~80kOhm. So I replaced both pairs while I was at it with 2W metal film resistors (originals were 1W).

But of course, one has to ask why did they get cooked? Well those resistors are plate loads on the 6SN7 phase splitter dropping the 290V feed from the power supply to about 115V. I've seen it several times...what happens is that a coupling cap between the previous stage and this goes leaky, the current feeds into the grid of this stage and lifts the grid voltage closer to the cathode, effectively biasing the tube more 'on', resulting in plate current and this current heats up those plate resistors. When this happens you will sometimes see the plate voltage is low as it gets pulled down as more voltage drops over those cooking plate resistors that are taking extra current with the tube being switched 'on' more. Long story short, the coupling caps between the first 6SN7 and the second, have to be replaced. however, I have experienced with the coupling caps in these units and know from experience I need to replace all of them (sometimes it makes sense to replace only the last set of coupling caps, to product the OPT).

So all coupling caps are going. The large axial electrolytics will also get replaced as they are easy to access. I did measure them are they were okay. All power supply caps measured ok in terms. I have decided to leave the multi-section caps for now - I've never seen a bad one from the Sansui tube era (with tube gear they made them robust enough not only to withstand operation but rather catstrophic faults elsewhere). All PS caps measured great in terms of both C and ESR. Leakage seems to be ok too, but i will not call that definite for now.

Here you can see new coupling caps, axial electrolytics and those new phase splitter resistors (note that those should be reasonably well matched...). Multisection caps and those brown rectangular (mica) caps are left alone for now. All other resistors were checked but looked okay. I will revisit the topic of those brown rectangular mica caps later (people generally leave them... but I'm having some bad experiences....)
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So here is what came out so far - I will keep all parts, so that this could be restored to original form if desired.
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At this stage, with coupling caps replaced, I have fired them up in full fury for the first time. You can drive them from a modern high output line level source directly if you want (0.62V in will get you to 10W out according to the spec sheet and that makes sense with what I see in my notes that I have 11.7W with 0.7V in). I'm not going to go into the sound quality for now, as you will learn I'm actually not done with these yet. But lets just say it didn't disappoint! And then when I drove with a preamp (BA-F1) things only got better.

FYI: I used Cornel Dubilier polypro coupling caps ranging in voltages from 1kV to 2kV rating. I've used them before and I like both the specs for the job, as well as the understated white colouring - to me it looks more the part than some shiny gold parts.The axial electrolytics I struggled on a bit more as the options for 500V range in the right size are limited - in the end I found some with great temp and ripple specs etc. If I recall they are sprague. I 100% know that the original parts were overspec in terms of everything except C, and I tried to keep to this philosophy, strictly.
 
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One of the HF-V60 had a dead bulb; it's a bit hard to see but up close in person it is clearly burned out.
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Another issue I had was the power switch on one of the power amps was working only 90% of the time. I have a spare working PR330 as well as a parts PR330 from @johnny_fever and the power switch appears to be identical so I swapped one out.
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While I was at it, I replaced the bezel from one of the spare PR-330 over to one of the PR-330 which was going to be rebuilt as just to have the best condition parts on the units being rebuilt. While we are looking at the power supply, take a closer look at the umbilical cable that supplies power from the power amps to the preamps. On the rectangular end I now know thanks to @Hyperion that this sort of connection is called a Jones plug, but I've not been able to find the exact configuration (note one side ways pin, at the end (i found them with sideways in the middle row, but not like this). If you find a connector like this, let us know as it could be useful to others who want to recreate the cable (I assume I am very lucky to have a pair of the original power cables).
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Great progress. And yes you are lucky to have the cable.

I'm sure I could make some kind of reproduction of the cable if I had to, but I'm also sure it might not be pretty. There is a pair of HF-V60 on epay right now that has the cable butchered, bolted permanently into the preamp; at least you wont lose it I guess, but it is really ugly how they did it. There are also a few other ugly things I noticed on those and it inspired me to keep mine looking original where possible.

For the recording, that bulb in the HF-V60 is a 9mm bayonet BA9s 6V and I used a 150mA (although that seems a bit bright and I would like to downgrade that). And in case the pictures later disappear I note that the power switch is rated 125V 6A.
 
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I used some of the LED's on the bay. They work great, As far as the cable I was lucky they were included.

@johnny_fever I should probably change to LEDs, and I usually do, but the bulb is so easy to get and I just bought a couple of spares so I'm keeping it 'original' for now.

I still have one or two more little things to do with the power amps, but I will get back to that later. Now onto the preamps.

One of them came a bit bent during shipping ,with a smashed tube and all. (not from rick).
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I did manage to get in straight, taking it apart and carefully applying a rubber mallet! And after replacing the smashed tube, it works. Pulls in radio and all. In fact, my 3 working units all pull in stations like nobody's business! Just with the tiny little 1.5" coils inside the chassis!!! One of the four (I think the parts unit from rick) actually has an AM rod antennas, like the ones we see on the back of the newer Sansui receivers (by newer, I mean late 60s and early 70s) and that looks to be a factory install; that parts unit is the only of the 4 to have that and the other 3 just use little coils.

Here is what they look like inside. Aside from the big tuning cap there are 3 small tuning caps. Can you see them? (they are all visible). The screws on the right connected to the big tuning cap... those are adjustable caps (only one is used). Then just behind that big tuning cap, the black thing mounted on the chassis just near the big tuning cap and just behind the magic eye tube on right... that is the 2nd cap that is used.
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Can you believe I have dial string instructions.... and actually a spare NOS dial string?!
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Now look back at those pics above and notice that there are axial caps tucked away underneath the board that has all of the resistors.... there are a lot stashed away under there.

At first I replaced all of the oil caps under those resistor boards.
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And then here testing them out.
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They work, but more to do to bring them up to spec.
 
WOW. These are going to be incredibal

They absolutely do sound great - knock your socks off great!

A surprising number of oil caps hidden under those resistors:
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The brown rectangular ones with domino type markings are mic caps use in the tone section which also had to come out too. At first I left them in, as they mylar are usually ok, or so people say, but I'm finding that not to be the case, with trouble from mylars in December 2017 in my AU-111 (same brown rectangles as here) and AU-999 (green case). Basically, I have found them to be culprit in a handful of cases this year... positions where they have significant voltage across them seem to be especially problematic (and I read some sites about how they fail... even though most of us say they are fine to leave in). And even when they don't have much across them, I'm finding matching to be very poor with the brown domino type. This was the case in my PR330, AU-111 and HF-V60 for the bad matching. I will show some graphs later, but the Left/Right frequency response was wildly different when tone or loudness was engaged. Also volume and loudness pots had poor matching across my four PR-330. So although I did the recap fairly quickly (well, moderately, it was a pain to get at those caps under the resistors....), there was a lot of work and measuring to do to get a nicely matched pair. Details to follow.
 
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Luckily the schematic was still glued underneath the cover - I took a pic and am sharing it here. If it does exist online somewhere, please let me know, especially if it is a better quality image. For now, it is the only schematic I have seen of this unit. I've uploaded to hi-fiEngine and it should available there soon.
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Some pics of HF-V60 coming soon.

I have a perfect schematic on the inside cover. Do you still want a better pic of it?
Someone did write in 6BA6 6AK6 above the 6BD6.
 
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