Sansui SP-2000 Restoration Questions

[JRHemmen]

Hi all, this is my first post on the forum. I have a pristine (externally) pair of Sansui SP-2000's that I got as a gift from someone. I've had them for about a year, but I just now decided to take off the front grilles and take a look inside. It seems to me that the 5" and 6.5" are both not working. I've decided to recap the crossovers and see if that'll fix it before I purchase any new drivers. My questions are as follows:

1. In adding the 0.01μF foil bypass caps (as per archibael's instruction), will it be a big detriment if I skimp on the AudioCap brand and go with Dayton, what every other cap is? Its a savings of almost $20 per speaker, going with AudioCap would nearly double the cost of the project.

2. If I do end up replacing the two midrange speakers, will the crossover's effect be drastically changed, or will the speaker have any issues if I go with a different impedance rated speaker? OakTreeVintage.com rates those speakers as being 16Ohms, but nearly all speakers on parts-express are 4 or 8 ohms, as I thought nearly every speaker was.


Side note, the speakers are currently running on a sad little Teac AG-V1200 receiver. I am hoping to get my hands on the original Sansui amplifier that was paired with the speakers, but if not, I will most likely hook it up to my Yamaha RX-V477 via the little bear tube amp that's currently en route to my house. The only thing connected to them is a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC turntable.

The RX-V477 has a set of Fluance-AVHTB speakers + a 10" Polk Audio powered subwoofer connected. If the wise elders of this forum recommend going with the $250 Fluance set over the Sansuis, I can try that too.

 

[tyella]

Do you have a multimeter? If so, pull the drivers and test for continuity. Set the multimeter to ohms at the lowest range and touch a lead to the drivers' positive and negative connections. You'll need to disconnect the drivers first.
If the multimeter reads open or infinite (depends on the meter), you are probably looking at new drivers. If not, there's hope.

I would try that first. No need to buy fancy caps if the drivers are dead. Better to buy new drivers and cheap electrolytics, assuming budget is a concern.

 

[JRHemmen]

Do you have a multimeter? If so, pull the drivers and test for continuity. Set the multimeter to ohms at the lowest range and touch a lead to the drivers' positive and negative connections. You'll need to disconnect the drivers first.
If the multimeter reads open or infinite (depends on the meter), you are probably looking at new drivers. If not, there's hope.

I would try that first. No need to buy fancy caps if the drivers are dead. Better to buy new drivers and cheap electrolytics, assuming budget is a concern.

I have a multimeter somewhere, I'll have to dig it out and test the drivers. I just ordered my caps, $57 shipped. I figure even if the drivers are bad they could desperately use new caps. I also have a pair of Samson Studio 5a monitors that I might try with the turntable. I know cabinet speakers are what I want over bookshelf speakers, but I can't afford a new set of cabinets, so I'm hoping to make the SP-2000's work.

 

[ChrisNC]

I agree. First test the drivers to see if there are issues with them. If there are tweeter/midrange controls, I would clean those as well.

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I think the point of bypass caps is that the bypass should be of "higher" quality than the main cap. So I don't know that there is anything to be gained by bypassing a Dayton cap with another Dayton cap. (I think there may be some reductions is ESR if the bypass cap has a lower ESR than the main cap, but I think the Daytons will have the same, low ESR.)

Regarding the drivers, replacing the drivers with a different impedance would require changes to the crossover. Hopefully they will be find. Alternatively you might find replacements on that auction site or you might get in touch with Millersound to see if Bill has any advice.

 

[JRHemmen]

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I think the point of bypass caps is that the bypass should be of "higher" quality than the main cap. So I don't know that there is anything to be gained by bypassing a Dayton cap with another Dayton cap. (I think there may be some reductions is ESR if the bypass cap has a lower ESR than the main cap, but I think the Daytons will have the same, low ESR.)

I thought that might be the case, but I was hoping it would be okay since I went with a Dayton film capacitor for the bypass and a poly for the main. The product description states "...ideal for bypass use, have low ESR and superior sonic detail." Part number is 027-450. Also, I went with a foil capacitor for the 22μF because it was the only option besides 20+2 polys. I assume this won't cause any issues in the crossover? Both speakers are receiving identical crossover recaps.

 

[JRHemmen]

I thought I'd attach two pictures of the speakers for any Sansui aficionados on here. The grille is sitting lower than normal in the second picture because it isn't screwed in place.

 

[ChrisNC]

I haven't used bypass caps, but films bypassing polys might do the same thing (and won't hurt anything). Using a 20 + 2 to get to 22 is fine.

 

[JRHemmen]

I just noticed there's a section of the forum for "exclusively Sansui". If a mod feels the need to move my thread, feel free.

Thanks for all the advice so far. One of the 5" drivers has a pinhole in it, but I'm really hoping it'll still sound acceptable. My next step will be to test all of the drivers to see if anything is actually blown.

 

[drbiggles]

Hey! I've got 2 pair of the 3500's and a pair of 1500's, they're all now sportin' new capacitors. Your speakers originally came with NP electrolytic capacitors. So, nearly any halfway decent poly/film/metal capacitors you install will be an improvement. Bypass caps were used to smooth out NP electrolytics, a way of using less expensive caps and making them sound a little more refined. When you use poly/film/metal and bypass with the same, the positive effects are null and all you end up doing is adding the uF value. Either way, the most important thing is that you get the old capacitors out.

And after checking the drivers and making sure your crossover isn't to blame, I would suggest buying replacements off fleabay. I did a quick check and there seems to be some selection of drivers for the SP-2000. But if what you need isn't there, be patient and something will show up. Finding modern replacements may or may not work well. And, when and if you ever decide to sell them, whatever resale value you once had will be gone. Be patient and find the originals, you'll be happy you did.

Biggles

 

[centsless]

They sold a lot of these so finding a replacement driver for these should be no problem. I have an old thread on here where I recapped the speakers and refinished them. Good luck.