Sansui SR-929 Veneer Project

[prwallen01]

I have a project on my hands. A customer brought me a SR-929 that has really had a rough life and he would like the beat up piano black finish replaced with wood veneer. Has anyone ever veneered a sr-929? I am trying to figure a way to remove the existing finish? Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

 

[bimasta]

I'm wary. I have a 838, not a 939 — wish I did. Veneering won't be easy, it never is, and add plastic, and curved, curved surfaces...? If it were mine — wish it was — I'd restore the black lacquer.

I'd take it to a furniture design place, even a car respraying place. If you do all the prep (sanding, filling, masking) they won't charge much — it's small, so they can just add it to another spray-job. They have the paints, compressors, guns — and EPA-approved spraying rooms, dust-free — they're pros and do it all the time. They'd probably like to do it, a change of pace for them. I took a TT to a car place years ago, and it made their day. They wanted to do a great job, and they did.

And it'll be like new.

 

[prwallen01]

Thanks for the reply. That would have been my first choice but the guy already has the veneer (not cheap).
I'm not worried about the veneer process but I'm concerned about how to remove the original finish. It's not a veneer (as far as I can tell) and looks like a thick "coating" of something (not just paint). My first thought was to "mill" it off but with particle board underneath I'm sure that would work.
Anyway.....back to the drawing board......

 

[bimasta]

I don't envy you. Not an easy veneer job, much can go wrong. It if does, client blames you. I hope he's paying a lot. If it were me, I'd try to convince him he's wrong; he can use the veneer on something else.

the original finish is not a veneer (as far as I can tell) and looks like a thick "coating" of something (not just paint).

I have no knowledge. I do know the "black lacquer guys" in the furniture game cover the wood in smooth black formica first; makes a good surface for the gloss paint with minimal prep work. Don't know if that's relevant.

 

[craggd]

Here is the description from The Vintage Knob site: The weight of the 929 mainly comes from the diecast composite resin base topped by a diecast aluminium motor base ; the particleboard cabinet is multi-layer lacquered with ultra-glossy black polyester resin - Sansui black.

 

[prwallen01]

Thanks guys.
It looks like the only options are to patch and paint or veneer over the resin (pity the thought, contact cement). Not sure of how this is going to end up.

 

[AudioJag]

My first impression of this veneering thought....... Don't. I've had a 929 in use since I left the military in 1972.... and one of the things that gives it it's value is the heavy piano black finish that just "makes" it...... Veneer it with some wood or other will destroy its value...... Sorry, but just my worthless opinion late at night

 

[bimasta]

I don't envy you. As I understand it, you're doing a job for a client who has his mind set on a bad idea. As I wrote above, if it doesn't turn out the way he imagines (and it probably won't because the curvy surfaces of the 929 just aren't suited for veneering) then he'll blame you.

How are you going to handle that rising sloping compound curve which surrounds the platter, and has all the LED and strobe displays? It's very "3-dimensional" (for lack of a better term) while veneer is by definition 2-dimensional? I'm really interested in your answer, because it's quite a challenge and if you crack it you're some kind of genius.

I've done a lot of a) turntable restorations, b) veneering, and c) sculptural designs in various media (wood, resin, metal, clay), so I have some experience. I see some solutions to your challenge but most are far from ideal.

What type of wood is the veneer? Its color and grain-pattern are crucial to the aesthetic result. Is it possible to give us a photo?

 

[prwallen01]

Sorry I didn't provide any info earlier. The current finish is a total loss. Big chips, lots of scratches and a very damaged corner. It's not acceptable the way it sits and looks terrible. Something needs to be done and the veneer idea is intriguing to me. Yes, a little risk is involved but it definitely would be a "one of a kind" when done. I don't remember the type of veneer but it will be gorgeous when complete.
Bimasta, the rising curve you're referring to is actually removable and will be sent out to powder coat (it's pretty scratched up as well). I will probably do some before and after pics of this project. I have high hopes for it.

 

[bimasta]

Bimasta, the rising curve you're referring to is actually removable and will be sent out to powder coat

Ah, the rising curve solved! I trust the 'gorgeous' veneer is dark... but maybe that's only my personal taste.

The condition you describe (sad!) raises questions about its operating condition — a "very damaged corner" suggests a violent impact — and if the internals were also damaged.

But I'm just being a busybody, you know what you're doing. Pics are essential — this will be one of the great before-vs-after contrasts ever...

 

[Blue Shadow]

I guess we are talking about taking an SR-929 Sansui (pic courtesy of @robbe_15 who hasn't been here since Dec)

And making it look like a Denon (photo courtesy of @w1jim )

Selecting the right wood to do the veneer would really make the table. Sure the piano finish would be gone but so would those fingerprints requiring dust/polish and resulting in a broken stylus. Could be better, could be worse, depending. I like the look of rosewood.

Why would veneering over the piano finish be so hard to do properly? I don't veneer so I'm clueless on this.

 

[totem]

Why would veneering over the piano finish be so hard to do properly?

Short answer, incompatibility between typical veneer glues and polyester resin.

I don't count contact adhesive as an appropriate veneer adhesive but certainly would stick.

 

[absolon]

Two choices here. Treat it like an autobody repair with Bondo, glazing putty and gloss lacquer or as a veneer project where the resin is sanded to give it tooth and veneer applied with contact cement and lacquered over. On a job of this size and nature, contact cement is completely appropriate.

 

[Autobahn]

I tried a Vinyl Wrap before. A lot easier.

 

[totem]

On a job of this size and nature, contact cement is completely appropriate.

Contact cement is used by some for veneer projects, but is not to be found in any furniture or fine woodworking situations.
As to using it on a plinth, its of course up to the individual to decide.

Coming from someone who owns a vacuum veneer setup.

 

[jnoyes]

Although I no longer use contact cement on veneer projects, I used contact cement on a Pioneer PL-516 that was my first veneer project 12 years ago. It looks as good today as the day I finished it.

Jon

 

[absolon]

Contact cement is used by some for veneer projects, but is not to be found in any furniture or fine woodworking situations.
As to using it on a plinth, its of course up to the individual to decide.

Coming from someone who owns a vacuum veneer setup.

You do what you have to do to make the job work. In this case, the plinth isn't subject to a lot of abuse the way furniture and cabinets are, contact cement properly applied works very well and there aren't really a lot of other options beyond epoxy and the project doesn't lend itself to that.

Coming from someone who has made a living out of my woodshop building furniture, cabinets and a variety of other wooden goods for over 25 years.

 

[totem]

You do what you have to do to make the job work.

No disagreement there.

The use of contact adhesives, Heat Lock, or 2 part veneer glues are all choices made dependant on
time, cost and abilities.

In the OP's case its the easiest solution, in other builds there are more options out there.
I personally do not use it for veneering.

 

[bimasta]

I personally do not use it for veneering.

Hi Totem — may I ask what you do use? It would be very helpful to know. I have a project pending, and my experience with contact adhesives is not good — "bubbles" form if the item is exposed to even mild heat, even sunlight through a window will do it.

 

[totem]

Hi Totem — may I ask what you do use?

Lets put things in perspective, contact cement is widely used to allow large surface areas to be covered
relatively simply. Its also used in the cabinet business quite often due to rapid assembly and cost effectiveness.
But as you pointed out there are short comings.

If you were to commission a fine piece of furniture or for that matter spend a considerable amount of time and money
on a build, you simply cannot afford the risk of delimitation or surface creep.

If you were to drop by and spend the day we could shoot the bull so to speak, but there are many variables
such as the ambient minimum temperature, what the surface size is re clamping, open working time, vacuum system or not etc.