the tabs aren't critical, just group the connections how they were. Nothing special about it being a square or a circle or whatever if all the sections are the same value and voltage.
can't help on the specific wiring questions, never worked on one of these but if it worked before and you didn't change anything, I doubt thats the problem.
some random thoughts in no special order that may help narrow down the problem area
Usually when I have a dead channel, the first thing I do is swap tubes side to side just to rule that out.
Would be very possible for the speaker switch to be messed up, and wiring around it would easily prove it out. Try it from the 4 to the 16 ohm tap and see what you get.
try messing with the tape monitor switch if you have not. If thats messed up it can cause no signal on one or both channels. Quick and dirty way of taking that out of the picture is to simply run an RCA cable from tape out to tape in. At that point it won't make any difference what the switch is doing or not doing.
Do the output tubes on the non-working channel bias normally? Not sure what the specs are, but you want to see something at the bias test point (pin 5 on the output tubes), ideally something that is basically the same as what you read at the working channel's test point.
If none of that leads anywhere, jumper the two grids of the first tube in the power amp section together. 340b should be pin 2 on V3 and V103. If you get signal on both channels, the problem is before the power amp. If not, you have something going on in the power amp.