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Scratchy volume pot on 9090

KeithD

KeithD

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I used Deoxit on the volume pot of my 9090 a couple of years ago, but never got rid of all the scratchiness at the low volume end to my satisfaction. It's been a bit worse lately for lack of use. Question, can the volume pot on the 9090 be disassembled to do a real cleaning of the contacts? Has this been documented somewhere? I have seen at least one thread where someone fixed a broken volume pot on the 9090. I remember pictures of it being completely disassembled. But wondering if this is is easily done on a non-broken one?
 
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KeithD said:
The Faderlube worked like a charm, thanks @kevzep !

Just curious why you should not use Deoxit on volume pots? Why is Faderlube better?
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I'm just learning but from what I gather you can use the deoxit first but it also removes any lubrication so you should follow it with fader lube on pots and sliding controls to lubricate them again.
Its also better to start with the pot or slider in the centered position so you somewhat force the debris out of the wiping area.
 
KeithD said:
The Faderlube worked like a charm, thanks @kevzep !

Just curious why you should not use Deoxit on volume pots? Why is Faderlube better?
Click to expand...

Faderlube is for volume or balance controls that act like a variable resistor. The wiper/contact moves over the conductive surface and you don't want to gouge or wear that surface away. Faderlube cleans and lubricates it.

DeOxit cleans oxidation between metal contacts, so it's probably stronger than Faderlube.

I think.
 
JJCalvillo said:
DeOxit cleans oxidation between metal contacts, so it's probably stronger than Faderlube.

I think.
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D5 is different than F5. F5 is not a "DeOxidizer" but rather is made to flush, clean, and lube the carbon track. Hence the "F". D5 contains a D)eoxidizer (hence the "D") to remove oxidation from metal surfaces such as switch contacts. But is NOT for power switches, only "signal" switches. When a power switch gets bad enough to cause problems, it is because the points are too pitted and just need replaced.
 
Orwell84 said:
I'm just learning but from what I gather you can use the deoxit first but it also removes any lubrication so you should follow it with fader lube on pots and sliding controls to lubricate them again.
Its also better to start with the pot or slider in the centered position so you somewhat force the debris out of the wiping area.
Click to expand...
Yep. A little D5 to deoxidize the wiper (loosen the tarnish), let it soak to do it's "job", then flush with F5 to lube the carbon track(s). :thumbsup:
 
Skywatcher said:
. When a power switch gets bad enough to cause problems, it is because the points are too pitted and just need replaced.
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Usually, though I've dismantled a power switch cleaned it out, spun the paddles 180º (or whatever those pieces are called) and re-assembled. Switch works fine a year and a half later.
 
JJCalvillo said:
Usually, though I've dismantled a power switch cleaned it out, spun the paddles 180º (or whatever those pieces are called) and re-assembled. Switch works fine a year and a half later.
Click to expand...
That is because you essentially "replaced" the points. Or at least half of them. :D
 
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