• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Seeking assistance with Pioneer PL-L1000 tonearm assembly Lock Post

Ricktptman

High Fidelity Enthusiast
Subscriber
I received a PL-L1000 that was fairly slyly photographed (missing turntable platter screws, counterweight, and the tonearm assembly locking post. The seller packed the platter in the bottom of the box under a piece of cardboard but forgot to mark the box "This side up," and the loose platter destroyed the better of the two dustcovers that were sent when UPS tossed the box around. I've repaired it with Cyanoacrylate, but it was very nearly flawless before that unforced error. I've replaced (the heads are a bit smaller than the originals) the platter screws and the counterweight. Thanks to the kindness of fellow AK'er Bratwurst7s, I have a replacement locking post for the tonearm assembly. However, I'm fairly certain there is a protrusion on the bottom of it that sticks through the tab that sits on the bottom right of the assembly. I tried to gently install it, but I couldn't get it to slip past the spring (tensioner for when the lock is in the up position?), but I slightly deformed the spring in the attempt. This leaves me with two final problems. Number 1: How to get that post past the spring without destroying the spring. Number 2: Does anybody know what protrudes from the (there's a hole in the bottom of the post, I don't think it's threaded, but I might be wrong) opening in the bottom of the post? How long does it protrude from the bottom of the locking post? I can possibly find a cartridge screw to fit and grind off the head, if I need to improvise. If anybody has any helpful information, I could sure use some! I really appreciate any help with this.
 
Register to hide this ad
Agreed and thanks, Gary7. (Star Trek subreference?) I was partially refunded, but I asked about anything that I should know that wasn't obvious and wasn't apprised of any of these obvious problems. It's in 8-9-ish condition now apart from the one dust cover and the robbed/lost locking post. There's one small spot on the other dust cover that hasn't polished out yet. (Hope springs eternal.) It performs flawlessly now otherwise. Thanks for the empathy. Needless to say these tables are hard to come by locally for me. I enjoy the challenges of restoring them, but I like to have accurate descriptions when picking the challenges. ePrey is just becoming too skeezy...
 
I am hoping that the 1000 and 1000A sled locking post assemblies are the same. Up to this point I have not looked into them at all since mine is working fine.

My 1000A will be going on the workbench tomorrow but I am at least a week away from being able to do anything with it.
That said, when I get it apart I will study the SM and the actual items and report back.

I just have to finish painting the damn apartment and my life will belong to me again. I hope.

:beerchug:
James
 
It's up and running now. Many small things were wrong with it, but replacing that small "boot" on the underside of the tonearm solved the biggest problem besides the tonearm assembly lock issue. I have an idea about the spring and the lock post. But I can't try it until I get the aforementioned small endpiece replaced. No hurry, just whenever you can get a look at it! If I have to make something, it'd be better to get it right on the first try...TIA!
 

Attachments

  • 20260528_173303[1].jpg
    20260528_173303[1].jpg
    76.3 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:
Here's what I have so far. It's the best that I could do with what I have to work with. Now, if anybody has any ideas for compressing the spring against the sidewall of the cylinder that this moves up and down in, that gets this project across the finish line. TIA.
 

Attachments

  • 20260530_113224[1].jpg
    20260530_113224[1].jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 6
Installed w/o spring. Works fine, just a little clunkier than ideal. I have the rehabilitated spring and I might experiment with a way to reinstall it from the top, but unless somebody's done it already, I doubt it will be easily accomplished. Certainly with as many of these tables as there are WITHOUT the tonearm sled lock, this has been explored previously. I appreciate all the help from those who've responded. Leaving the thread open for further replies...
 

Attachments

  • 20260530_132212[1].jpg
    20260530_132212[1].jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 4
Back
Top Bottom