Servicing 100v equipment

[Kij]

Hi there,

This is my first post as a new member so excuse me if this has been asked before or is just blatantly obvious.
I have 5 TTs (2x Sony PS4300, Sony ps Lx4, Pioneer XL 1551 and Pioneer XL A700) I use one of the 4300s as my daily table and as you can see from the model numbers the Pioneers were made for the Japanese Market. My query is particularly for the A700s. How appropriate to it is the service manual for the PL570? What I mean is are the capacitors and so on the same in both models as one is 100v and the other is for the EU/UK/US markets and their various voltages?
I can't find a service manual for the A700s, anytime I look for one I get directed to the PL570 and I'd much rather have the manual to give any tech I use rather than having them poking about in the dark and running up the hourly rate bill.
Also, I'm thinking of refinishing the A700 plinth while it's disassembled (high gloss midnight blue or British racing green) what are your thoughts on custom vs original?

Cheers for any help

Kij

 

[BillWojo]

The incoming (110V or 120V) power probably goes through a transformer first to get to the internal operating voltages so the circuit boards and other electrical components should be the same. Possible difference would be a neon strobe light if that works off of line voltage.

BillWojo

 

[Kij]

The incoming (110V or 120V) power probably goes through a transformer first to get to the internal operating voltages so the circuit boards and other electrical components should be the same. Possible difference would be a neon strobe light if that works off of line voltage.

BillWojo

Thanks for the quick reply.
I'm in Scotland so will be using a 230-100v step down transformer so good to know that the internal components should be the same, if that's the case the service manual for the PL570 should be perfect for any work the tech has to carry out.

Kij

 

[j!m]

Beware: The actual values on the board(s) may not match what is shown on the schematic.

I found this to be the case on my BL-91. Most did match, but a couple did not.

I also advise going up on the voltage of the capacitors, beyond what was originally installed. I would not alter the capacitance value, unless you know what you're doing.

 

[Kij]

The guys I use for maintenance are very good but I will mention it. Also, BL 91! VERY nice, I never got into belt drive, probably a hangover from being a Techno kid but that is a stunning table (I'm constantly trawling the Japanese sites looking for a DD7 at a "reasonable" price) there's just something about Micro Seiki both aesthetically and engineering that makes me drool.

Kij

 

[BillWojo]

@Kij, if the Micro Seiki TT make you drool, take a good look at the Victor (JVC) higher end tables such as the TT71 through TT101 for DD driven machines. Even the UA-7045 and UA-7082 tonearms are top notch. MS used Victors DD motors in some of their models.

BillWojo

 

[Kij]

The Victor's are very nice (very partial to the QL Y77f). To be honest each of the big Japanese manufacturers who were selling DD turntables in the 70s and 80s have something that I'd love to have, Kp1100 from Kenwood, PS8750 from Sony, the Dp47f Dp-59l and Dp 100m from Denon. I have an XL1551 and an Xl A700 but would love an XLC 1850 and a PL 7L.
The only thing stopping me apart from price and rarity of some is my wife! If I buy anything else without selling some of what I have I'll need to downscale strictly due to the fact she'll throw me out of the house.

Kij

 

[j!m]

Yes, the design, execution and engineering behind the Micro offerings is magnificent.

I joked when I was restoring the BL-91 that, even if it didn't work, I'd play a CD and just look at it...

The plinth is layered particle board with a lead sheet in the middle, covered with that rosewood veneer; main bearing weighs about 1.5 pounds, as does the arm "board", which is a massive nickel plated brass disc... The feet are crap (now). They consist of a spring inside a rubber bag to damp the spring. Simple and effective, which is pretty much Micro in a nutshell.

Everything about it is just "right". And I think the '91 is the peak of the less fancy designs. The 1000 can accommodate three arms, but the aesthetic is not there. The 99V (lowest Vacuum clamping) model has a much thicker plinth that I don't care for. The slightly lesser BL-51 is what I has initially keyed in on, and is a great table as well. The 91 uses the larger bearing and platter that I was interested in. It is a bit of a price jump from 51 to 91 (there is also a 71 in between) but it was worth it to me. There is a bronze platter available for the 91, as well as copper mat for the platter. Both add significant mass to the system. Micro was a fan of high mass for sure.

Only one table would dethrone the BL-91 for me. And that is, the BL-91L, which accommodates 12" arms.

 

[gadget73]

might be worth a look inside to see if it happens to be a multi-voltage arrangement already. Might be 100/120v. Not sure if its easier to get a 230:120 step down vs a 230:100 but maybe worth a look.

I don't have strong opinions about the original finish on the A700. Not sure if thats vinyl or real wood veneer but either way it doesn't look all that special and I personally wouldn't call it some sort of travesty to see one nicely re-finished in something different. Just has to be done well, fill the grain and make it smooth and glossy like a good automotive finish. If it looks like spray paint over a rough surface, then no.

 

[j!m]

My 91 wasn't; but it is now. It can do 100VAC or 120VAC with a switch on the bottom.

 

[gadget73]

I've been inside of something that didn't have a switch on the bottom, but depending which way the fuse sat it would change the voltage. Basically had 4 clips in a box arrangement so it wasn't possible to put two fuses in at once.

 

[Blue Shadow]

I've been inside of something that didn't have a switch on the bottom, but depending which way the fuse sat it would change the voltage. Basically had 4 clips in a box arrangement so it wasn't possible to put two fuses in at once.

Was that a Thorens, yes, just checked the OM, the 125 has dual sets of fuse clips at 90° to switch from 110-130 to the 220-240 operation.

J!m did a nice job of updating his 91 to allow 120V and left the 100V option in place and installed a switch. Detailed on another forum.

 

[gadget73]

wasn't a Thorens, mine is the only one I've worked on and the TD-160 doesn't have a fuse. May have been some model of Technics, I really don't recall at this point.