• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Simi's Official 12" subwoofer build.

similost said:
So plans take another turn here... Ended up going after the CX3400 XO for sale in bartertown.. .

Wife's gonna love me when she starts watching me stack up three amps in the livingroom... Been thinking about bi-amping my barziwaves for a while.. I bet with the subs tri-amping it all is going to be a HELL of an inprovement.

:thmbsp:

Oh. and I was looking for the cabinet sizes for Wayne's speakers, but I can't seem to find any of the design and measurement info.

You have a link to that info?
Click to expand...

It can be requested from Wayne, which I did and now Im looking for the file. While it seems odd, I thought I remembered they were 12 inches square.....but that seems small....

Russellc
 
I could see it being a cubic foot and digging really deep.. the LAB12 are supposed to play real well in a foot and a half... but yes, looking at that speaker, a foot seems way to small. Looks like maybe a 2 or 2.5 ft box at the least to me..

My problem being, they HAVE to go under my mains, and a small box isn't going to do that... So, I'm doubling the supposed perfect box size. I really think with all the numbers I've run, and the numbers others have done for me, they should be a HELL of a lot more bass than I got..
 
The Pi sub looks more like maybe a 20" cube from the pictures, which does sim very much like his performance data.
 
And sadly, 2 feet won't fit under my speaker and give me room to mount the driver in it. Too thin...

I think working within the contraints I need to for WAF, I'll still end up with a lot more bottom end than I have now, or probably need, and I hope to imagine it's going to sound pretty damn good..

OH, and sealing up and bracing my Barziwaves is also part of this project, so that's going to help with a little added bass and less cabinet ring from there too..
 
Last edited:
The pi sub is a little bigger than what you're planning, I'm 99% sure. I wouldn't worry about being too big until a good 5 ft³ or so.
 
To clarify (maybe), a small box, like 1.5 ft³ gets you to 115dB or even 120, but gives up all the deep stuff. 5 ft³ gets you flat into the lower 20s (too flat for home, many would say), but takes you down to 110dB-ish. In between is a continuum.
 
sooo... what you're saying is bigger is better? So three feet is better than two?

I really don't need to be putting out 115db... I doubt my house would take it.. much less my neighbors.. It starts getting that loud, my mains do well on their own.. it just takes a couple handfulls of volume to make them thump right..

Course I've always liked my speakers on the large side.. It's true what they say about displacement.... :thmbsp:


Or so that's the story I'm sticking to... :D
 
I dunno, I guess I'd probably do 4 ft³ at 25Hz, but that's kind of what would work in my room with how I use subs. I think it's likely Wayne's volume and tuning could be adapted into the dimensions you need. If so, that seems like a safe bet.
 
I know I'm not going to be allowed to get away with a 4 foot box... I originally said I'd be rasing the mains 14", but now I'm up to 17 and she isn't fond of the idea of having them any higher than they are now.. Back to room hogging speakers...

I am though. It will put the horns right at ear level sitting in the sweet place, while allowing me to build the box as big as possible. It will stick out about 6 " behind the main, but that's perfect. About how far I have them from the wall now.

I would rather have lower than louder...
 
Hey dumptruck.. .so after our discussion in the other thread, I figured I better ask this to be sure I'm on the right page with my tuning.. I don't want a one note box..

So my box will be 3cuft... and my port will take .2 cuft of space.. (14"x1.5" x 16.5 deep) so do I really need to build my box so that it is 3.2cuft because of the port, or am I good building it at 3cuft?
 
yeah, well, technically in the case you'd subtract the effective port volume, which is quite a bit larger in this case, and the volume of your port wall (going back to find my math in this thread...)... I'm getting 0.34 ft³ to subtract for the dimensions I used in my previous post where I worked out the end correction, which I see I need to correct in that post now. I think you could figure about +.3 for whatever your actual dimensions are.. You really should plan on doing this in some way such that you can change the slot length if you miss the tuning.
 
Last edited:
The port wall will be 1" wide by 16.5" long...

Man.. this box is getting bigger and bigger every time I start asking questions.. I had originally told my wife it would be 14" tall.. now I'm up to 17" (with the feet) and it's getting deepr and deeper all the time.. LOL.. I'm going to have to try and work my way around the WAF really hard here..
 
Just show her pics of a proper IB system and say it's what you really want. Scare her into liking your tiny subwoofers.
 
LOL... Dave, you know what she's been through with me.. and even though these are fairly small, they are still rasing my mains up, which she doesn't want, but I do to get the drivers up to ear level.. .I would tilt them back, but she wants to set stuff on them (she knows better than plants)

3cuft boxes aren't much smaller than the box size of my mains as it is..
 
I don't know if you really need to be going any bigger. They look good in 2.5 ft³ to me, F3 at 26Hz without any room gain.
 
So making the box at 3cuft, then subtracting .5cuft for the space the woofer takes is what you are basing that measurement on dt?

Or are you saying to build the box at 2.5 ft, then just add the woofer and port and life is good?
 
I guess I was saying that if your volume after all subtractions is 2.5, for example, that still looks okay to me, although I misread the graph for f3 - would be more like 28-29Hz. Surely the woofer doesn't take up an entire 0.5 by itself, does it? :dunno:
 
For a rear mount, it says .7 cuft on the specs... so since I'm going with a front mount, I was just guessing at .5 ft..

Sooooooo... if I'm tuning up around 29hz, how much difference would it make sound wise than if I was tuning around 26 or 27 hz?
 
Guess I need to try and read up and understand tuning more... I mostly thought it was to keep the right pressures on the driver to keep it from unloading and flapping, but evidently it's more for the tone of the sound.. right?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom