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Snip or De-Solder??

M

mfbauer

New Member
When you replace a component such as a resistor or capacitor, should you de-solder the old part and thread the new leads through the original hole? Or should you just snip off the old part and solder the new one to the stump without threading it?

I always thought that a solder joint should be mechanically sound before the solder was applied. That meant de-soldering and mounting the new part like the old one. But I just read an instruction manual that said that de-soldering is a waste of time and can damage tube pins and terminal lugs. So, it says, you should just snip and solder to whatever's left.

I'm sure you guys will have lots of opinions on this one. What are they?

Mike
 
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I prefer to desolder and use the original hole. It looks neater and another another benefit of desoldering is to remove all of the old solder. I use Cardas Quad Eutectic and don't like to mix it with old solder.
 
I have ripped through two tube socket holes and now I will snip it if it is too risky (i.e. too hard to reach.) It may not look as nice, but it is safer and works just as well.
 
If you're replacing all the caps, take your time and do it right. This means cleaning the solder out of the joint. But if you're replacing ONE part, you might do what the old time radio repairmen did... snip the lead, and form the lead of the new part into a tight spiral - slip this over the old lead and solder. Here's what I mean: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79721
 
Desolder.

Sometimes it's a pita. Take your time, use a solder sucker and a pair of needle-nose pliers, and don't yank!!
 
There is an interim solution called a 'quiggle' that is used for just this purpose.

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79721

This is electrically and mechanically superior to simply soldering leads together, but doesn't carry the risk of damaging tube sockets or other components.

**edit** i see Tom had the same thing in mind while I was posting this lol
 
Tom Bavis said:
If you're replacing all the caps, take your time and do it right. This means cleaning the solder out of the joint. But if you're replacing ONE part, you might do what the old time radio repairmen did... snip the lead, and form the lead of the new part into a tight spiral - slip this over the old lead and solder. Here's what I mean: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79721
Click to expand...

I typically do something like this.

One should be careful not to inadvertantly make an "antenna" from a sprig of poorly trimmed/dressed lead. Antennae won't add value under the deck of an audio amplifier.

EDIT: I assume we're talking about point to point, and not PCBs.
 
Either will likely work, but I like to desolder if I can. I have a suction type unit, but I tend to use desolding braid more often. I try to remove as much as possible then clip the leads and pull them off. The trick is not to pull on the jacks or lugs as then you will risk breaking something. I have found may machines that had big globs of solder that run down almost into the socket. I feel if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. John
 
I am in the process of recapping my first console tube amp and am doing a combination of both. The joints that are easy to access and /or simple, I de-solder. There are a few I have chosen to snip and graft.

After doing about 10 of 16 caps, I re-installed the amp to check my work so far, and it's working fine.
 
well you can snip, but make sure you find a way to melt the solder enough to open the hole on the pin to attach a new wire. NEVER allow only solder to hold something in palce. At least wrap it around the pin if you can't go through it. Solder makes a poor mechanical connection, and over time stress causes it to come apart.

Radio shack sells a nice desoldering iron for like $15. It basically has a squeeze bulb on it that is tied into the metal tip, so you hold the iron up and release the syringe and it sucks the solder off, leaving a clean enough connection to properly tie to.
 
I try to desolder my repairs. I have a dental pic that I use to get the old lead unwound from the pin once I can see the end. If I feel it is not in the best interest of the terminal or lug I clip and wind the new part lead around it.
 
I used to be a big supporter of desoldering... until I had a tube socket connector break off. The amount of frustration that caused me far outweighed any benefits of proper desoldering - and it was a very nice socket with a special tube shield bracket, that was riveted in place. I had to carefully melt an unused pin out of another identical socket, heat up the pin with a torch, and melt it into place. Now, if I have any doubts about the mechanics of the connection, I will make a tie loop with the old lead and tie the new component to that. It takes a fraction of the time, never causes damage, and looks fine.
 
jon_s said:
I used to be a big supporter of desoldering... until I had a tube socket connector break off. The amount of frustration that caused me far outweighed any benefits of proper desoldering - and it was a very nice socket with a special tube shield bracket, that was riveted in place. I had to carefully melt an unused pin out of another identical socket, heat up the pin with a torch, and melt it into place. Now, if I have any doubts about the mechanics of the connection, I will make a tie loop with the old lead and tie the new component to that. It takes a fraction of the time, never causes damage, and looks fine.
Click to expand...

I could have said that. :thmbsp:
 
I broke off a socket connector when I did a Fisher amp last year. It was pin5 that was connected to ground, and I was trying to add a 10 ohm resistor. I managed to get solder to stick to the nub that was left to make the connection, but is it possible to remove one of the other unused connectors to move to that location? They must be inserted somehow, but how to they come out? Do they go in from the top or bottom. I would love to fix that socket next time I'm in there. John
 
sloober said:
...but is it possible to remove one of the other unused connectors to move to that location? They must be inserted somehow, but how to they come out? Do they go in from the top or bottom. I would love to fix that socket next time I'm in there. John
Click to expand...

I think it depends much on the pins - if they aren't wiggly to begin with, then it may be hopeless. What happened with mine was that it snapped off right at the socket base, so no metal was exposed - the round piece that goes around the tube pin fell out (amp was upside down), and the flat part stuck to the resistor lead I was removing. Staring at it, I realized that I could straighten an unused pin off another socket and just insert it and push it through to the other side. From the underside of the chassis, I straightened it out carefully, gently applied heat (BernzOmatic torch lighter) for a few seconds, then gave it a push with my pliers - fell right out. This should be a last-resort procedure though, because it introduces the possibility of having two damaged sockets :sigh:
 
Thanks Jon S. That is what I want to do. On this Fisher, the pins are wiggly and seem like they are pushed in. It seems like there is a barb, or bend that is keeping it from pushing out. It looks like the opening in the phenolic socket is arced, and the tab has been flattened. There one unused pin on each output tube that could be used. What does the heat do to help? I have tried to arc the tab to get it out. I will have to look closer. This is one reason that sometimes it is better to snip.
John
John
 
AHHHH! I got it! Took some work, but I did get it out in one piece. Now I should be able to use it on the other broken pin. Yehaaa!
 
Anal retentive I guess, every Fisher I have recapped I use a solder sucker to get the worst off then use an awl to uncurl the old lead and remove it. I have had the occasional socket leg break off but that's why I keep organ donor sockets around. It is mostly the 7 and 9 pin sockets that break, the 11 pin are sturdier.
 
After I desolder as much as possible I wiggle the lead to be removed as the remaining solder hardens thus preventing the lead from rebonding then I carfully remove.
 
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