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So you're rebuilding a Marantz 2245/2270? Check it out!

Here is a shot of the "warm white" LED's.
Unit is not all sealed up but you get the idea.

I did not take any pics of the dial pointer light.
But I gently cut/unwrap the tape, and gently pry the plastic flip housing open.
When I install the bulb I may pack or stick a little Elmers tac N Stik below and around the bulb to keep it in place to make it easy to snap the plastic housing shut.
I will see if I have an old pic of this process.


IMG_4800.jpg
 
Great work Pat! I'm starting a 2270 rebuild on a very nice unit this week and I'll be following this build.

A few questions....
Where do you get those Mundorf caps on the tone board?

Where do you get the FG main caps? I've used these in most of my builds, but I can't find a size that fits the 2270. Nothing on Mouser or Digikey. I did get a set of Nippon-Chemicon mains from our AK friend who also sells the power switches. They seem pretty close as to what came in my unit stock

Do you do anything to the P450 daughter tone board at all?
 
Nice write up!! I got a question..
I just finished up a restoration on an early serial 2270. I used stacked film caps mostly at the preamp board , beefed up the power supply with UKL and replaced the transistors and rectifiers on power supply. New 10k uf Kemet filter caps.
Everywhere else I replaced capacitors with electrolytic only. Bias is good and the unit seems to work great. Just the bass is crazy heavy now? To get it to sound "normal" I have dial back the knob a couple clicks or use the low cut filter. Anybody experience this before??
 
I recently replaced the caps in my 2270 preamp P400 board with WIMA film and replaced the transistors. I had also replaced the electrolytics previously in the power supply with like Nichicon. I did this in steps and after I did the preamp I didn’t like the bass in mine either. I’m planning on going back to original P400 caps as they all tested fine to see if that makes a difference but haven’t gotten to it yet.
 
I recently replaced the caps in my 2270 preamp P400 board with WIMA film and replaced the transistors. I had also replaced the electrolytics previously in the power supply with like Nichicon. I did this in steps and after I did the preamp I didn’t like the bass in mine either. I’m planning on going back to original P400 caps as they all tested fine to see if that makes a difference but haven’t gotten to it yet.
I replaced the 0.22 caps with 0.33 uf on that preamp board ( watching Leestereo rebuild). I'm gonna swap those out I think and put in some 0.22 electrolytics and see what happens
 
What turntable and speakers are you using?
And I would go back to the stock .22 film caps at C401/C402.
Is it on all inputs phono, aux, FM etc?

Pat
 
What turntable and speakers are you using?
And I would go back to the stock .22 film caps at C401/C402.
Is it on all inputs phono, aux, FM etc?

Pat
AR91 speakers. All inputs are exaggerated. Haven't tried my Technics SL-5 on it yet
 
I would go back to the .22uf.
The 2270 is a nice full sounding receiver, which even at low volume does not require the loudness button to be on.
 
Hey Pat. Kind of an unrelated question but what is causing that weird "zebra stripe" pattern on some of your photos?
 
I would go back to the .22uf.
The 2270 is a nice full sounding receiver, which even at low volume does not require the loudness button to be on.
Ok. I've gone back to 0.22uf . And still crazy bassy? I even went back and replaced C407/408 , C410/11 and C414/15 with Nichicon UKL caps. A bit better but still has almost an overdriven type of sound?? Maybe I have issues on the P450 board??
 
If the input voltage to the P400 on J401 is about equal to the output voltage on J405, then you might try bypassing the tone controls altogether and see how it sounds.
Lift the inboard end of R401 and jumper it to the lifted + end of C414. You can keep the resistor (R401) and cap (C414) in the circuit for isolation.
Compare the sound to the channel that you did not jumper.
I think this should work, see if anyone else comments on this approach.

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If the input voltage to the P400 on J401 is about equal to the output voltage on J405, then you might try bypassing the tone controls altogether and see how it sounds.
Lift the inboard end of R401 and jumper it to the lifted + end of C414. You can keep the resistor (R401) and cap (C414) in the circuit for isolation.
Compare the sound to the channel that you did not jumper.
I think this should work, see if anyone else comments on this approach.

View attachment 3863138
Good idea. I'll have to see how this goes when I get this back and opened up again
 
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