Soldering an Onkyo tx 4500

[plinya77]

Tonight me and my youngest tore into a dead Onkyo tx 1500 and scavenged some lights and other parts to make a tx 4500 a little nicer. We had a blast. My question is on soldering. Is there a difference in solder and the quality of a solder gun . Obviously I never have and was hoping to let him try. He's twelve, and is much more hands on than myself. I've already promised him the receiver for his help. He's chomping at the bit to try something different like soldering.

 

[blhagstrom]

For electronic work, you sort of want a solder station, like these (from an AK sponser, so don't flame me, just showing an example).
http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/?N=&Ntt=solder+station

A solder "sucker" is also quite handy and solder wick for un-soldering parts.

The problem with "just any old solder gun/pencil" is they don't get hot enough or they get too hot. They are also a pain without a stand. Working on electronics is usually "pick up the soldering iron, work, put the iron down, work, pick up the iron, work, put the iron down, repeat all night...."

Many electronics are heat sensitive, too hot and you can screw them up.
A iron that is too cold is just a pain since the solder doesn't melt and flow right.

You also need to keep the tip clean and "tinned" so it will work well.

 

[markn2wae]

A soldering iron is the best choice.

I soldered my first kit (a Lafayette "explore air" AM\SW radio) with an old Weller gun and my hand was TIRED when I got through, the soldering job was OK and the set worked (I still have it!).:thmbsp:

My "weapon of choice" is a Weller WP25 iron, I am still using the ORIGINAL heating element despite having to replace the AC cord from flex damage!:yes:

If you go for radio shack, get the switchable model (25\40W?) so you get the best of both worlds (PCB and point to point soldering ability).

Never use a gun on a PCB, you WILL destroy them!

Mark T.

 

[Renzor213]

I soldered my first kit (a Lafayette "explore air" AM\SW radio) with an old Weller gun and my hand was TIRED when I got through, the soldering job was OK and the set worked (I still have it!).:thmbsp:

My "weapon of choice" is a Weller WP25 iron, I am still using the ORIGINAL heating element despite having to replace the AC cord from flex damage!:yes:

If you go for radio shack, get the switchable model (25\40W?) so you get the best of both worlds (PCB and point to point soldering ability).

Never use a gun on a PCB, you WILL destroy them!

Mark T.

Yup, still using a Weller SP23 since about 10 year's old for most task's. Have an even more busted up Weller 100/140 gun and some other's for larger chassis work. Either way, a small 25 watt iron should be fine for what you and your son are doing. The mentioned solder sucker is also a good idea.

 

[BBQDad]

What worked for me...

...back when I was a communications technician, was this:

A soldering iron with the tip kept clean and well-tinned. Big enough to flow enough heat quickly but not so big as to be clumsy, and not so hot as to flow too much heat faster than you can pull it away.

Have everything cleaned and fluxed. (Not too much flux, just the barest coating.)

Have everything in place, secured, and ready for the application of heat and solder. (Some alligator-clip stands are good for this.)

Have the soldering iron totally heated up before you touch it to the work.

Touch the iron to the work, then touch the solder to the work too. When you learn to do this just right, the solder will melt about a half-second after you touch it to the work, will flow into the joint, and will act as a heat-sink, helping to protect the parts.

I always tried to touch the iron to the work as far away as possible from the heat-sensitive part(s). I also tried to touch the solder to the work at a point between the heat-sensitive part(s) and the place the iron was touching.

Remove the solder and the iron. Do this the instant the solder melts and flows. You need only a tiny bit to do the job. Big gobs do not help.

Get a couple of hunks of some #12 solid copper wire, and experiment with it. If you can find some #18 or even smaller, so much the better. It will not take you very long to get a feel for the rate at which your iron flows heat, and for how much solder it takes to get a good joint.

Remember that the things you will be soldering probably will be a good deal smaller than even #18 copper.

There are many here who are far more expert than I. My experience was over 20 years ago. I cannot remember the brand name or rating of the iron I used. It was not very big.

Experiment and practice on scrap first.

Be patient. Take your time.

It is faster and easier to set it up right and do it right the first time than it is to tear it apart, buy new parts, and do it over.

I hope this helps. Best of luck.

 

[Renzor213]

'BBQ's' pretty much got you covered, but can't stress enough the importance of a clean soldering iron tip. No big deal, as just wipe it down frequently with a damp rag, and tin it with some 60/40 flux core Radio Shack(or similar) solder. If the tip wear's down, just put a file to it.

 

[SoCal Sam]

Get a Hakko 936 station, about $125(?). This model is used by my tech all day long every day. Yes, more expensive but worth it because the temp control is excellent.