• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Soldering Gun vs. Soldering Iron

hnash53

Super Member
I have a cheapo RadioShack soldering iron that has gotten the job done so far, but I can tell it has its limits as to what it can do.

Today, I picked up a Weller soldering gun... 8200N... for $5. It works, but seems like the tip is LARGE... too large to use for replacing small capacitors... which is most of what I use a soldering tool for.

What is the best type of soldering tool for replacing capacitors... a gun like this Weller... or an iron... something like (but better than) my RatShack iron?

And then, could you recommend a decent gun/iron for under $50?

Thanks.
 
Register to hide this ad
I used a gun back in the 70's because I thought it was cool looking. Can't say it helped produce great results. I prefer an iron. I have 4; a Weller (adjustable), an Ungar (adjustable), a Pro's Kit (non adustable), and a little iron (non adjustable) for tight spots. I've used many different ones and as long as it is adjustable you're good. Here is a good one with basic adjustment for watts not heat: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC?tag=thgepa0a-20 Here is another: http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1460763781&sr=1-3&refinements=p_36:-5000,p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin:7018439011 I like this one because you can very temp from 300* to 840* & you can get more tips from PE. PE is out of these, plus they want $28 more. Both those should take care of basic needs. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
I had the Stahl SSVT and it is a wattage adjustable soldering iron, just like the Weller. Used this as a replacement for the single wattage irons and gun I have. Gun only used for seriously large pieces. These variable temperature units are like having different single wattage irons in one unit. Set it for what you need.

The next step and this gets a bit past the budget is a Temperature Controlled soldering iron. Set the temperature, folks like 650-800 depending, and just solder. A friend gave me a couple Weller irons that needed a station to work. Got one on the bay and very happy. These units have a temp sensor near the tip and when the iron contacts a large cool chunk of solder, the cooling of the tip tells the station to increase power. They claim a 100 degree temp drop is recovered in 10 seconds. The Variable Temperature units take much longer as you have set a wattage not a temperature. But the listed VT irons are fine for general recapping and much better than a simple iron and well a gun, that needs special projects.
 
Depends.

For big lugs/chassis connections I use a Weller 8200. For most other stuff point-to-point a 25W pencil, sometimes a 40W pencil for multi-connection joints/bus bars, etc. For printed circuit work I have a 15W iron.
 
I have that 8200, a rat shack 40w and after my old weller analog went south I bought the aoyou 9378 as it comes with extra tips (wedge, pin points etc). I added a brass dipper. Like night and day over my old weller. But my big guns like mentioned are good for the heavy stuff. they have other models less expensive or higher cost. Just suggesting temp controlled is far superior for your workmanship results.
(no affiliation)
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-9378-Programmable-Digital-Soldering/dp/B00BSW69LI
 
There's a model made in Korea or whatever marketed under the name Tenma and a few others. Has bar graph LED display across the top and a temp control. There is als a digital readout model but you don't need that.

Apparently they lost some sort of certification for static or something and now sell for like $50. I think they are worth that. You have to really crank them to do lead free, but for old fashioned normal solder they are fine.

Better is the Hakko 888. I don't have one but have used one. However it is a bit more money. I'll probably get one when I find a low enough price. (yes, I am the ultimate cheapskate, I make Crassus look like Andrew Carnegie)

I think the main thing about this is availability of tips. If they give you a bunch of extras with it, especially different types, that is a plus. One of my favorite tips is (I think) called the micro spade lug which has two ground surfaces at 90 degrees to each other and about 30-45 degrees from the axis. However those do disintegrate quite quickly, I guess because of being sharp. No thermal mass at the end. I use them enough that I just stick with the conical now because I don't want to replace it once a week.

You can grind your own tips but unless you nickel plate them they won't last. I actually have some nickel saved for just that purpose but don't know enough about electroplating yet to get er done. Plus the fact that this nickel is saved for a pretty cool project. I want to use one of my 8200s with a special tip made for a vacuum desoldering station, and then instead of a motor, I am going to set up two one way valves and a speaker screwed to a piece of wood. The vacuum will come up faster and be more powerful. I'm thinking like q 12.6 volt transforer and an 8 inch woofer. The valves would be reed valves like you would find in a refrigerator compressor.

I don't even know where to buy nickel, what I have came from when my buddy got a bug up his (_|_) and decided to ake a ring out of a Canadian silver dollar, which that year was not silver, but nickel. I know that US nickels are not nickel, they are mostly aluminum. Aluminum will not work. Actually there is process by which you can get the plating on (not that I know it at this moment) but it will not tin.

I really do like pure copper tips but they just don't last. I liked the shape of the tip on my Weller because I could change ICs with it. You have to keep turning it on and off to regulate the temperature or you burn up the wick and lose foils on the board. I would not recommend trying it, but I used to do it. An iron is so much easier to deal with.

Another thing to remember is that, like audio, it doesn't matter what you spend. You could find a little 25 watt iron for like $10 and it might be just fine. When I went to work at Electrasound, an ASC for almost everyone, the iron they gave me was an elcheapo 25 watt, they said they found these things were really good. And once I used it I found they were right. No thermostat, no temperature control, not even a box, just plugged into the wall. Worked great.
 
I had the Stahl SSVT and it is a wattage adjustable soldering iron, just like the Weller. Used this as a replacement for the single wattage irons and gun I have. Gun only used for seriously large pieces. These variable temperature units are like having different single wattage irons in one unit. Set it for what you need.

That's a good point about the SSVT unit. I was pretty sure for the cost you didn't get a thermistor in the tip, but as long as it gives you a temp on the dial it's as close as you can get for the cost. My Ungar & Weller rates temp, but I know it's just wattage output. I have no idea what 25W output is equal to in temp so reading temp is much easier.

I've tried the temp controlled units and like them, but not for their cost vs what I use it for. I don't know of any that are $50 or under, but like I said, good point to bring up.

OP, I only saw it mentioned about tips a couple of times, but extra different style tips are good. Also, if you can afford it, this is real nice to own as well: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02..._UL160_SR139,160_&refRID=0M6ZM8KF8YT326A2B6C4 It takes more solder off the tip than the sponge & won't reduce temp the way a wet sponge will. Also, it's made of plastic so be aware. Don't forget solder wick if you're removing components. A desolder pump is good to own as well. It should be used to get most the solder up, then use the wick to get the smaller amount. Just throwing that out there cause it makes the jobs much easier. Of course an electric desolder pump is the best, but costs at least double if not triple the $50 you want to spend.
 
Now that you mention wick, get Chemwick. It is seriously better. It is more expensive, and also you have to keep it in a sealed container or it dries out.

But if you want the utmost care for the PC board, that is the stuff to get.
 
I've used a couple soldering stations we have at work. One is a Weller, a couple others I think are a Hakko and a Tenma.

They work OK, but with the standard tip having such low mass I think my pencils work better on tube amp/point-to-point stuff, which is mostly what I do these days.
 
FWIW during my brief single enlistment career as an electronics technician I NEVER saw anybody use a soldering gun. It just seems kinda bush league IMHO. Something civilians did in their basement.
 
FWIW during my brief single enlistment career as an electronics technician I NEVER saw anybody use a soldering gun. It just seems kinda bush league IMHO. Something civilians did in their basement.

Lol, that's funny, considering that last sentence describes most here in regards to electronics tinkering/fixing.

Love my 8200. Makes nearly instant work of those tube amp chassis lugs and soldered can cap mounts.
 
I have a Weller as well (no pun intended) as a 30 Watt soldering iron. I would never use the Weller on audio PCBs. Way too hot to safely use. It will lift the foil off the board. The Weller is perfect for soldering the ground lead to the chassis, but a nightmare on PCBs. Stick with the soldering iron. I may now look for a variable temperature iron.
 
I use a weller TCP iron, (40watt) I use a 3mm oval chamfered number 7 bit, or for heavy duty stuff a number 9 bit (5mm), this is all I ever need. I do have very sharp bits of various temps (number 6, number 8) just in case I encounter a surface mount IC.

I have used an ~80 watt (?) soldering gun, perfect for extra heavy duty jobs, but I don't own one at the moment and don't need one.... but watch this space. :)
 
Yeah that 8200 can burn fast. Nothing wrong with single wands. replacement tips were a tad hard to come by but looked on line and many available. All noted you can certainly get in under my mark post and others and still do pretty good work on applied project. My aoyou unit shuts itself down after a lull and the unit senses me picking it up but won't cut a very large solder pad easy but as I've been working on mostly tight spaced.

My 8200 has a case and some tips should need arise. Just pulled out off a shelf and still has the orig outside layer card board advertising :D ! kept pretty good care of it, looks new and I've file the tip a few times lol.. (missing the foam inside core mount, new, got it on sale that way) Kinda glad you brought it up to take another look at it... maybe practice with it some. Kinda got used to the pencil style but no harm in "putting" a little.
 
I've got some solder wick already... but it's from RS and I haven't been impressed with it. Some have said other solder wicks work better, so I'll be looking for some better wick in the days to come.

I have a solder sucker that seems to do the job. Thanks for the tip about having a "solder waste" cup for the leaded stuff. Good idea.

I'm initially going for the Stahl SSVT along with a set of tips. If things go well with my re-capping of my Sanyo quads' output boards, maybe I'll think of getting something even better. But for now that's what I've chosen.

Lots of other good tips/ideas in this thread... many thanks.
 
Back
Top Bottom