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Some feedback on 0.5W AudioNote Tantalum resistors for amp rebuild

Oilmaster

Sonycus Peritum
I can provide the following (negative) feedback on these AudioNote tantalum resistors (the standard 0.5W version, not the non-magnetic version, that is).

After I finished a very thorough rebuild of a Sony TA-N7B amp last month for another AKer, which included all transistors , I wanted to try out the impact of replacing the main signal carrying/impacting resistors by these AudioNote resistors.

I have had very good results by replacing the mentioned original resistors during previous N7B rebuilds while I was lucky to live nearby a local Shinkoh resistors seller in Tokyo, but I moved back to Europe last year, and Shinkoh resistors are almost faint outside Japan. (yes... I should have made big stocks....I can pull out my hairs now)

So, I gave these AN tantalum caps a change....

Well...... these resistors really have a SIGNIFICANT emphasis in the lower frequencies, really dominating the entire sound, so much that it is rapidly annoying and rapidly causing listening fatigue (driving a couple of APM-77 woofers....) I did try a dozen different bias current settings, as that is partly influencing the amp's lower-end oomph, but it was too little to compensate.

I started by returning the original resistors one by one, but only when the last AN resistor was out again, the annoying low end disappeared again.

I can't really say what the issue is: distortion, resonance, whatever, in that lower frequency range, but these AN resistors do really NOT work out in solid state (VFET) amps. They are NOT neutral and not linear performing despite AN advertises the opposite.

Perhaps they may have a good performance in tube amps, pushing things to a positive side, but I abandoned tube amps a decade ago.

Tonight purchasing Takman REY resistors for evaluation in this amp.
 
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i find it odd you notice a big difference then . and with only one replacement resistor in the circuit .. maybe it was wrong value or simply a rare bad one ? ..i dunno ..a metal film should be same or fairly close to any other metal film so long as quality cant factor in .
if you replaced carbon for metal film i might understand it better .
 
Checked the website. Really black hole for cash 2pounds 80P ($5.00) for 1 !!! 0.5W resistor!!!!!!. Especially since metal films are like 10 times less each.
 
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I can't really say what the issue is: distortion, resonance, whatever, in that lower frequency range, but these AN resistors do really NOT work out in solid state (VFET) amps. They are NOT neutral and not linear performing despite AN advertises the opposite.

It appears that a golden opportunity to make useful measurements was avoided or overlooked. This information would have greatly increased the value of your post and allowed others to confirm it. Will you attempt to measure differences due to the REY resistors?
 
i find it odd you notice a big difference then . and with only one replacement resistor in the circuit .. maybe it was wrong value or simply a rare bad one ?

It was not with one resistor, it were 7 resistors per channel.
When returning back to the original resistors (one by one), the effect became gradually less.
Of course the last one or two hardly audible, but the 7 resistors together was very audible.

Believe me, I triple checked the values: the ones coming out, the ones going in, and vice-versa....
 
It appears that a golden opportunity to make useful measurements was avoided or overlooked. This information would have greatly increased the value of your post and allowed others to confirm it. Will you attempt to measure differences due to the REY resistors?

Fully agree, but despite all my decent test & measurement gear, I do not have a AudioPrecision Analyser nor a Rhode&Schwarz Audio Analyser.
Oscilloscope images for the lower end were the same; analysing the situation further requires serious analyser equipment.
 
Never use "audio grade" parts, as these are usually made by small companies without any expertise or experience. They're solely relying on snake oil marketing. If these audiophool grade parts give you a different "sound", it's because the parts are worse, not better. Different is always a bad thing, since it's not right. Not intended.

Instead get the cheapest parts you can find from reputable manufacturers, or even no-name manufacturers. This way you will get quality parts that will behave as they are supposed to.
 
Oh I tried and used almost all possible component brands and series; this was just a curiosity trip to see what it would do...... knowing it could be just burning money
That's the way to know about things; and now I do....
A free-of-charge feedback for you guys :)
 
... analysing the situation further requires serious analyser equipment.

Even older THD analyzers with a 0.01% bottom range are exquisitely sensitive instruments capable of resolving less than 0.001% distortion in comparison tests. Do you have access to one of those?

High-quality resistors exhibit more nearly perfect characteristics than any other component used in audio engineering, with the possible exception of hookup wire, so claims of obvious sonic differences are extraordinary and beg for evidence. I'm sure that any effort you're willing to expend on data collection will be greatly appreciated because this topic is highly interesting to many practitioners.
 
High-quality resistors exhibit more nearly perfect characteristics than any other component used in audio engineering, with the possible exception of hookup wire, so claims of obvious sonic differences are extraordinary and beg for evidence. I'm sure that any effort you're willing to expend on data collection will be greatly appreciated because this topic is highly interesting to many practitioners.

yes yes... I am with you.....

One day I'll get my THD analyser, and will do resistor distortion tests as done by Ed Simon's article in Linear Audio - Volume 1 (ISBN 978-94-90929-02-2), and I'll be happy to share the results here....That article is really interesting; too bad they didn't include some of the 'audio' resistors.
 
I read every issue of Linear Audio and I'm keenly interested in component quality assessment. At some point, I hope to confirm multiple anecdotes about the sonic signature of Japan-made Marantz products being related to their resistors, and then try to pin down what's unique about those resistors.
 
I agree with Oilmaster's description of the OLD Audio Note tantalum resistors. They do then to have an emphasis on the bass and are somewhat thick sounding as well. The good news though is that the new NON-magnetic Audio Note tantalums don't sound like that at all. They were released roughly a year ago and word is just starting to get out. Much of the attention is on the top-of-line Silver resistors, but the regular non-magnetic series are very good too. The new Audio Note resistors are now available at Parts Connexion in Canada as well as Hifi Collective in UK.
 
Never use "audio grade" parts, as these are usually made by small companies without any expertise or experience.

This is not generally true. Usually, "audio grade" parts are made by industrial suppliers and repackaged by audio companies as "audio grade" parts.

I can think of a few exceptions but not many.
 
Nothing is unique about resistors. They resist. caps and transistors bump current and the resistors hmm resist I know a few coffin boxes , glass structure to put all your stuff into. close the glass doors on the coffin. heat and more heat as abuse cranking.
 
This is totally unlike the Audio notes myself and at least 6 friends have used .
The magnetic Tantalums are not as clear,or balanced. I would never buy he magnetic model resistors of Any type it is always a Big -. You get what you pay for.
He AN non magnetics from AN take a Solid 300+ hours to fully settle in 100 or less
No. Also on the input section although expensive a pair -2 of their exceptional
2W Silver Tantalums will bring out better detail then Any other resistor including
Chorcroft,or Vishay Naked .I heard several runin and then put in different circuits.
2 watt sound better ,my dac takes .5w but AN recommend ,as well. As others said 1 Pr of the 2W Silver Tantalums will be very good ,The others can be Vishay on the input or myself will use the non magnetic AN Copper brass Tantalums
I put 34 in my amp with 10 Vishay Naked on the inputs ,for bleeds 5 Kiwame for a bit added depth-warmth for bleeders, and 12 Takman Carbon s in my Amp
It has taken almost 175 hours to balance out and still got better past 300 hours.
Peter. Quadrip at AN has 1000s of hours with these ,he said bare minimum 300 hours but typically can be up to 500 hours dependendjng how hot they get ,the cooler they are the longer they take ,rule of thumb he stated.
 
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