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Some help with Marantz 7T Restoration.

elgrillo

El Grillo
Hello everybody, I just got a Marantz 7T(SN: 18,437) this week , its in nice shape for how much I paid for it. Maybe someone can help me across this journey of trying to restore it.

I know how to solder and use the multi meter . In the past I already restored a marantz 32 with a lot of help of some kind people from here, and also I recapped an change some pieces of a marantz 250 with some help also.

Well the 7T is in working condition but (always problem ehh) some little problems with it.

1- When I move the selector knob, estranges sounds comes from both speakers . This only happens when changing between *Tape-head and *Microphone. In all the rest is perfect and smooth.
2-When I try to plug some headphones (while operating) (ON) A very loud sound comes from the speakers , very loud (afraid to break my speakers).
3-After opening it I found that some one already make some repairs. One Electrolytic Cap from the Power Supply (C601 A,B) has been changed with a 330 mf /200v + 170mf / 200v in parallel. The other cap (c602) of the PS is original but it has leak signs.
4- I think that the bridge rectifier has been changed also, and I don't know if it is a good one.
5-On the Main Output RAEF Board, one of the transistors is not original, and I doubt that this one is a good replacement. I can`t get to see any numbers on the transistor to check if its a good one or not.
6- This is not important but a little bit annoying ,the volume pot starts to produce sound just passing 10.

The rest of the parts looks to be original and in good shape.

The Idea is to recap all the electrolytic and tantalum's, and replace the assumed bad parts for good new replacements. I don't know if i need or not change the Mylar caps on some of the boards as I saw in some pictures of a Japanese website ( http://amp8.com/tr-amp/marantz/pre_amp/7t.htm ) , they also put some mica bypasses in some of the caps.

I see that a lot of people are modding this preamp with very good results, and if some one gives me some (not too difficult) tips, i think with a little bit of guide i will be not afraid to do them also.

If i get to do this I will take photos of all the process, and try to put all the information as organized as I can.

Thanks a lot in advanced!

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Well after some investigations here in AK, i´m thinking on this route for the recapping.

In this table there are all the electrolytic´s caps and tantalum's to change, and their replacements .

lytics y tantalums.jpg

What do you think about this choices? I read about a lot of people raving about the Silmics II on this preamp , so I decided to use them despite the difference on the (uf) values and voltages. On the Power supply I opt to use Muse caps as I saw on this japanese website ( http://amp8.com/tr-amp/marantz/pre_amp/7t.htm ).

I read about some mods to enhance the performance of the preamp.

For example, AK memeber jstang uses film bypasses with very good results on C205,C206,C303,C304,C404,C408,C505 and C506. What do you think about this , and what brand ,type and values should I use?

I also saw that some people replaced the following Mylar caps to Film caps. ( C201,C202,C209,C210,C401,C402,C409,C410,C501,C502,C503,C504) What do you think about changing this ones and what brand,type will be good for this?

About the transistor that is not original (Q504) is marantz part # (34-1022) y saw in a post that this (2N3638A ; 2N3636 or 5K3025) could be good replacements. Should i opt to change (Q504) and (Q503) with the same replacement , as the later is the same transistor (now original). Or leaving the original is preferable? Also one doubt that comes to my mind with this transistor , is that my pre amp is of the " new ones " (SN 18437) so maybe the part number was not updated on the schematics as I know that early models got other type of transistors.

I hope someone can help me with this , so I can order some parts and restore this beauty!

Sorry for my poor english.

And thank in advanced!
 
I look forward to your Journey....I to just got a 7T this week (Nice price around Mid 5's). And with me recapping a number of pieces (working on a Marantz 2230)....I am going to send this out Wargo Electronic Services (Site Sponsor).

This Classic is going to get a Complete Restoration...After speaking with John I know this will be in Very Good hands.....Yes on Silmics II...These will be used in my 7T.
 
I look forward to your Journey....I to just got a 7T this week (Nice price around Mid 5's). And with me recapping a number of pieces (working on a Marantz 2230)....I am going to send this out Wargo Electronic Services (Site Sponsor).

This Classic is going to get a Complete Restoration...After speaking with John I know this will be in Very Good hands.....Yes on Silmics II...These will be used in my 7T.
Hi CohibaJoe!, nice to know that you also are going to restore a 7T , if you have more info about the parts they are going to replace , I will be glad to know!

Good luck with your project!
 
If you don't mind me asking what is the going price to change out all caps and anything else that is suspect? I have a 7T that works great all original but I know Im likely on borrowed time and thinking about a rebuild. Thanks
 
If you don't mind me asking what is the going price to change out all caps and anything else that is suspect? I have a 7T that works great all original but I know Im likely on borrowed time and thinking about a rebuild. Thanks
Hi chasman, i dont have that info now but you can see the prices in mouser, if you are going to recap only the electrolitics its near nothing what you are going to spend. Now i`m busy with a lot of work so the project is in standby, but i thin I will restart it this week. I will post all the progress .

Cheers.
 
Well after some investigations here in AK, i´m thinking on this route for the recapping.

In this table there are all the electrolytic´s caps and tantalum's to change, and their replacements .

View attachment 1028260


For example, AK memeber jstang uses film bypasses with very good results on C205,C206,C303,C304,C404,C408,C505 and C506. What do you think about this , and what brand ,type and values should I use?

I also saw that some people replaced the following Mylar caps to Film caps. ( C201,C202,C209,C210,C401,C402,C409,C410,C501,C502,C503,C504) What do you think about changing this ones and what brand,type will be good for this?

I'm about to place a Mouser order for the electrolytic's mentioned in that nice little spreadsheet above. Thx to whoever did that!

Can someone recommend a film bypass part number (for C205,C206,C303,C304,C404,C408,C505 and C506)

and Film cap part number (for C201,C202,C209,C210,C401,C402,C409,C410,C501,C502,C503,C504).

Thanks!
 
I'm about to place a Mouser order for the electrolytic's mentioned in that nice little spreadsheet above. Thx to whoever did that!

Can someone recommend a film bypass part number (for C205,C206,C303,C304,C404,C408,C505 and C506)

and Film cap part number (for C201,C202,C209,C210,C401,C402,C409,C410,C501,C502,C503,C504).

Thanks!
I`m happy that you find theat helpfull, today I will recive my order , and I hope to start the project tomorrow. I will try to put photographs of all the process.

Cheers.

Gonzalo.
 
I`m happy that you find theat helpfull, today I will recive my order , and I hope to start the project tomorrow. I will try to put photographs of all the process.

Cheers.

Gonzalo.

What film bypass and film caps did you wind up ordering?

If you have part numbers that would be awesome - there's soooooo many at mouser.
 
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