phantomrebel
Serial Tapist
I agree, it is much more effective than alcohol. If you want to save money, you can just buy Naphtha at your paint or hardware store. Same stuff basically.
Some newbie questions on reel to reel
- Thread starter trudge1984
- Start date
trudge1984
Active Member
I have Ronsonal, IPA, white lithium grease and Zoom Spout Oil so I think I am covered. Now I have to figure out how to get the pinch roller mechanism removed.
eddisc
Super Member
As I said ON BOTH FORUMS - watch the video(s) on YOUTUBE
You \have the materials. Now you just need to do a bit of research to learn the appropriate techniques to clean and relube. Take you time.
Teac decks of that vintage are some of the easiest to get back into good running order.
A can of Deoxit is suggested for cleaning all switches and pots. Use sparingly, then exercise the switch/knob vigorously. I have found that improvement of any intermittent scratchiness occurs over several hours. I have gone back a day later, to find that a still slightly noisy control has become quiet.
Buy a couple decent used tapes from two sources for testing, to minimize chances of a bad tape driving you crazy and making you think something is wrong with the deck. Good bets are Maxell UD or UDXL, TDK Audra or LX, Scotch 206/207 or 150, and there are others. Avoid budget brands like Radio Shack. Don't go longer than 1800' tapes of any brand.
Most audio issues from these decks are caused by: dirty heads, dirty controls, and poor head to tape contact. The last item should be addressed by the cleaning and relube of all moving parts, and head cleaning. Don't be afraid to use some pressure on the heads while cleaning-but rub in the direction of tape travel only.
Have fun and let us know how it went.
Teac decks of that vintage are some of the easiest to get back into good running order.
A can of Deoxit is suggested for cleaning all switches and pots. Use sparingly, then exercise the switch/knob vigorously. I have found that improvement of any intermittent scratchiness occurs over several hours. I have gone back a day later, to find that a still slightly noisy control has become quiet.
Buy a couple decent used tapes from two sources for testing, to minimize chances of a bad tape driving you crazy and making you think something is wrong with the deck. Good bets are Maxell UD or UDXL, TDK Audra or LX, Scotch 206/207 or 150, and there are others. Avoid budget brands like Radio Shack. Don't go longer than 1800' tapes of any brand.
Most audio issues from these decks are caused by: dirty heads, dirty controls, and poor head to tape contact. The last item should be addressed by the cleaning and relube of all moving parts, and head cleaning. Don't be afraid to use some pressure on the heads while cleaning-but rub in the direction of tape travel only.
Have fun and let us know how it went.
trudge1984
Active Member
eddisc-don't see where you mentioned watching youtube videos. I did get a message from someone on the tapeheads forum about a youtube video which I watched. Anyway, things worked out real good. I got a really detailed rundown on the procedure from Sam over at tapeheads.net. Pinch roller mechanism is working like a charm. I got an oiler when I ordered a new belt so I am going to oil the motors. I cleaned the tape path real well and I have some deoxit which I will use. I also have a new belt for the counter. Just looking at it it seems like you either have to pull the left reel motor or take the front off. I will have to delve into that. Looking forward to getting it hooked up to my system and checking it out.
eddisc
Super Member
WAIT !!! I JUST PULLED THE SIDE PNL & REAR COVER... It looks like a simple table pull to get the belt over the motor shaft. Pull rubber mat off table, MEASURE DISTANCE OF TABLE FROM FRONT PLATE, RECORD THIS ##, remove table height adjusting screw WHILE HOLDING TABLE !!! Slowly, carefully remove table, renew belt. Should not take more than 15-20 minutes. Contact cement mat as soon as removed & it'll be "set" by the time you're ready to replace - USE CEMENT SPARINGLY.
I just did all this except R/R belt (didn't have one on hand - "took one for the team")
Be sure to seat mat well or you might induce warp in the take up table.
What is >>> rare original Teac shield.??
MY BAD on the video ref... answered too many posts to recall what's what. I am sorry.
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trudge1984
Active Member
Thanks for the rundown eddisc. It was looking like a pain to do so I didn't know if I wanted to mess with it. So I took a better look at things and had a few questions. Do I have to take the rubber mat off in order to take the table off? If I do have to take it off I am guessing you have to pry it off pretty good since it is glued down? Is the table height adjusting screw the only thing holding the table on? Once the table is off does that allow you to snake the belt around the motor shaft? The TEAC shield is the dust cover that goes over the front of the unit. Thank you for your help.
eddisc
Super Member
Bad on me - again!! No need to remove mat; I'm used to seeing the table anchored w/3 screws under it... Just Remove height screw & the "drum" that's the underbelly slides off the motor spindle end. So take 8.375 minutes off procedure... Wood pnl off, table off, belt removed, belt replaced, table replaced, open fresh cold beer, wood pnl replaced. 16 minutes...
EDIT: yes to felt/foam to retain some oil for capstan (TH post)
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trudge1984
Active Member
Awesome! Thank you for the clarification. Doing this stuff for the first time I am always a little nervous that I am going to make things worse. That was a piece of cake. I got the table pretty close to where it was (I used a micrometer but there is a little play in the shaft). I may need to fine tune it once I get a tape on it. And thank you also for the felt answer. I will put a piece onto the shaft.