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Some quick 1060 questions

Kelvin

Active Member
I recently acquired one of these cute little amps and am cleaning it up a little bit. I have a few quick questions to ask you Marantz and 1060 gurus.

1) Where do I buy a new light bulb? And how to pull the old bulb out? I took the faceplate off, do I just use pliers to pull it out?
2) After I power off the 1060, sound still comes out of my headphones (it's my headphone amp ATM) for about 15-20 seconds. Is that normal?
3) How do I deoxit the switches? I can seem to get at the pots ok, but how do I spray into the switches? Do I have to take them apart somehow?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
 
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1) I don't think its difficult. The original lamp is a bulb, I still liked to replace it with a blue LED (actually only the lens is blue, together with the 'yellow' bulb it gives a pale blue shining). I will let you know about the swap.

2) it's normal, the main capacitors of the power supply have to discharge before the sound dissapears.

3) If you remove the metal plate on the under side they are accessible for the deoxit (look for an opening in the metal potentiometer housing).

CD :)

PS: just scored my third Marantz 1060 amplifier...:D
 
Thanks for the reply Turbokeu, I did notice that the amp stays on for way less time when I have speakers hooked up to them as well.

However, I still REALLY NEED HELP on getting the bulb out. I've tried to pull it out by sticking tape to it, twisting it with plyers, and trying to pull that square metal bracket off. My fingers are simply too fat to grab a hold of it and yank. How do I get this bulb out!?

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And for deoxiting the switches, can I spray into these square holes? I can't see the actual metal contacts through this hole, but maybe the deoxit will make its way around in there? Or do I actually have to take apart each switch to get the deoxit onto the contacts? I wouldn't bother with the switches, but there's clearly some oxidation in the main and remote speaker switches.
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Yes, spray deoxit into the square holes and the rectangle holes (just below squares in photo) and then push the buttons in & out many, many times. Then spray them again and repeat it. Let dry overnite before powering up.
Don't take the switches apart.
 
Kelvin said:
Thanks for the reply Turbokeu, I did notice that the amp stays on for way less time when I have speakers hooked up to them as well.

However, I still REALLY NEED HELP on getting the bulb out. I've tried to pull it out by sticking tape to it, twisting it with plyers, and trying to pull that square metal bracket off. My fingers are simply too fat to grab a hold of it and yank. How do I get this bulb out!?

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You don't have to pull out that square bracket.
The light bulb is put in a rubber grommet through the front chassis.
The bulb should simply come out of the grommet by pushing it backwards.
The problem is that it fits quite snuggy (probably kind of 'stickied' to the rubber because of the bulb heath over the years).

On one of my 1060's I could move the bulb just a few mm to the back but it won't come out completely.
As you're going to replace the bulb by a LED anyway, just push it through the grommet by means of a tool that has about the same diameter as the bulb.
There is a big chance that you will break the bulb but we don't care.
Remove remaining glass particles in the grommet hole from the original bulb and we're ready to go!

I don't know about your electronic knowledge/skills so allow me to explain:
Cut the original bulb wires going to the fuse board close to the bulb and stick a 5mm blue led through the grommet from the back.

Add a antiparallel 1N4148 diode over the LED and a 220 Ohm/0.25W series resistor, and solder these to the original bulb wires.
Diodes and LEDs are polarised components, they have a plus and a minus, where the plus is called anode, and the minus is called cathode.
On a diode the cathode is generally marked by a little ring, on a LED generally the anode is the longer wire.
You have to connect the cathode of one component to the anode of the other, and vice versa.

led1060.gif


If this sounds complicated to you I will do the mod and post some step-by-step pictures.

Why the antiparallel diode?
A LED is like a diode, it rectifies the AC voltage, BUT as opposed to a diode a LED doesn't support more than 5V reverse voltage. The antiparallel diode takes care of the reverse cycle of the AC voltage and limits it to about 0.6-0.7V.

Why the series resistor?
Like a diode, a LED has a typical forward voltage (for a Silicium diode it is about 0.6-0.7V, for a blue LED it is about 3.4V).
Once the typical forward voltage is attained, a small increase in voltage causes a big increase in current through the diode or LED.
As the supply voltage for the original bulb is about 7.5VAC a LED without series resistor would simply burn out in a few seconds.
The value of the series resistor is not critical, as long as the current through the LED does not exceed the typical forward current (typical 20mA).
For the same typical forward current different LEDS can provide luminous intensities from as low as a few 10's of mcd (milli Candelas) up to several thousands of mcd.
It all depends from the brand/origin/specifications of the LED in question.
The 220 Ohm value for the series resistor is just a starting value (it ensures the current through the blue LED doesn't exceed 20mA), if your blue LED is far to luminous (you don't want to be blinded by the power indicator of your amp...), just try higher values for the series resistor till the luminosity is satisfacting.

This was quite a long reply, don't hesitate to ask further information.

CD :)
 
Thanks for the tips guys!

Spraying deoxit (actually, I could only find tuner cleaner in my area) into the switches made a big difference in getting rid of pops and scratches. But it was a messy ordeal because the cleaner I have is in an aresol can and deflects everywhere when I point it towards the square holes.

I wasn't able to push the bulb through because, as you suspected, the rubber was melted onto the bulb. I ended up pulling the square piece off and then I pushed the bulb and rubber through to the other side. After that, prying the rubber off the bulb was easy.

And thanks for the LED mod instructions Turbokeu! I'm OK with electronics and I definitely understand the logic behind the diode and resistor. Now that I have the know-how, where do I find these parts? Radio Shack (now The Source in Canada)? Or do I need to find an electronics store? And if I just wanted to replace the bulb with another bulb, it just has to be 5mm and 7.5VAC?
 
After powering off the 1060, the reason sound still comes out (normal) is because the amp is still discharging power. The 1060 is not a DC (direct coupled) design, so therefore will play a bit after turned off.

Love these 1060s. I've got two myself.


Turbokeu said:
...Add a antiparallel 1N4148 diode over the LED and a 220 Ohm/0.25W series resistor, and solder these to the original bulb wires.
Diodes and LEDs are polarised components, they have a plus and a minus, where the plus is called anode, and the minus is called cathode.
On a diode the cathode is generally marked by a little ring, on a LED generally the anode is the longer wire.
You have to connect the cathode of one component to the anode of the other, and vice versa.

led1060.gif


If this sounds complicated to you I will do the mod and post some step-by-step pictures.

Why the antiparallel diode?
A LED is like a diode, it rectifies the AC voltage, BUT as opposed to a diode a LED doesn't support more than 5V reverse voltage. The antiparallel diode takes care of the reverse cycle of the AC voltage and limits it to about 0.6-0.7V.

Why the series resistor?
Like a diode, a LED has a typical forward voltage (for a Silicium diode it is about 0.6-0.7V, for a blue LED it is about 3.4V).
Once the typical forward voltage is attained, a small increase in voltage causes a big increase in current through the diode or LED.
As the supply voltage for the original bulb is about 7.5VAC a LED without series resistor would simply burn out in a few seconds.
The value of the series resistor is not critical, as long as the current through the LED does not exceed the typical forward current (typical 20mA).
For the same typical forward current different LEDS can provide luminous intensities from as low as a few 10's of mcd (milli Candelas) up to several thousands of mcd.
It all depends from the brand/origin/specifications of the LED in question.
The 220 Ohm value for the series resistor is just a starting value (it ensures the current through the blue LED doesn't exceed 20mA), if your blue LED is far to luminous (you don't want to be blinded by the power indicator of your amp...), just try higher values for the series resistor till the luminosity is satisfacting.

This was quite a long reply, don't hesitate to ask further information.

CD :)

I'd love to see a step-by step, if you don't mind. I could probably figure it out, but assistance and detailed directions are always welcome!

Would that be okay?
 
Kelvin said:
Thanks for the tips guys!

Spraying deoxit (actually, I could only find tuner cleaner in my area) into the switches made a big difference in getting rid of pops and scratches. But it was a messy ordeal because the cleaner I have is in an aresol can and deflects everywhere when I point it towards the square holes.

I wasn't able to push the bulb through because, as you suspected, the rubber was melted onto the bulb. I ended up pulling the square piece off and then I pushed the bulb and rubber through to the other side. After that, prying the rubber off the bulb was easy.

And thanks for the LED mod instructions Turbokeu! I'm OK with electronics and I definitely understand the logic behind the diode and resistor. Now that I have the know-how, where do I find these parts? Radio Shack (now The Source in Canada)? Or do I need to find an electronics store? And if I just wanted to replace the bulb with another bulb, it just has to be 5mm and 7.5VAC?
Glad to hear that you got rid of those pops and scratches.
The mess of the areosol cleaner should evaporate in a few days (Deoxit does anyway).

I'm not sure about the original diameter of the light bulb (are you still able to measure it?), but LEDs come in pretty standard diameters (1.8, 3, 5, 8, 10mm) for the round ones.
I suspect a 5mm blue LED could fit, if not, at least a 3mm one would.
Use a little liquid soap or oil if the LED fits too snuggy, add a little transparent adhesive tape if it fits too loosy (LED's almost don't heat up).
A diffused (not water clear) LED is preferred as clear LEDs tend to be quite blinding (small light angle).
The proposed 1N4148 (or a 1N914) diode can be any small-signal Silicium diode, the series resistor can be a 1/8 to 1/2 Watt resistor (higher is bigger size).
If possible also buy some thermal heatshrink of a suitable diameter to isolate the solderings.
I would solder the series resistor and the antiparallel diode near the fuse board, leaving only the two original wires to the LED in the front chassis.

Radio Shack should have them (but not cheap), a local electronics store would be probably better and cheaper.

If you (really) want to replace the original bulb by a new bulb you should use a 8V bulb (I know there's an AK member overhere that sells them as Marantz receiver bulb replacements).

Update: I managed to push the original bulb with a thump tool through the grommet in the front chassis without breaking it (there was also a little glue left on it).
The glass diameter of the bulb is 4.6mm, the metal part of the bulb is 5.1mm.
Therefore a 5mm LED fits just fine.
A little drop of (thermal) glue on the LED would be perfect to insure proper fixation to the grommet.

CD :)

PS: while dissablembing the bulb I forgot that my 1060 amp was still connected to mains (230VAC overhere).
I was remembered firmly when inadvertently I touched some connections on the fuse board...:yikes:
 
thedelihaus said:
I'd love to see a step-by step, if you don't mind. I could probably figure it out, but assistance and detailed directions are always welcome!

Would that be okay?
I'd love to!
I just have to check the availability of some 5mm blue LEDs in my stock (I litterally own hundreds of LEDs in all colours and sizes).

CD :)
 
Turbokeu said:
PS: while dissablembing the bulb I forgot that my 1060 amp was still connected to mains (230VAC overhere).
I was remembered firmly when inadvertently I touched some connections on the fuse board...:yikes:

I guess that you cannot be considered a real 1060 owner if you haven't been bitten at least once by the fuse board :D

greets,
Carlo
 
Turbokeu said:
I just have to check the availability of some 5mm blue LEDs in my stock (I litterally own hundreds of LEDs in all colours and sizes).
I just checked my stock of blue diffused LEDs, only a few (and used) left.
Therefore I ordered a new batch of 50x blue diffused LEDs for $0.11 each + shipping costs. They should arrive in a couple of days.

@Kelvin: If you want I can send you a couple of LEDs, diodes and the correct serial resistors for less than a buck + shipping costs (a simple bubble envelope will do).

@MeAN: :D :D :D :D :D

CD :)
 
Turbokeu said:
@Kelvin: If you want I can send you a couple of LEDs, diodes and the correct serial resistors for less than a buck + shipping costs (a simple bubble envelope will do).

Thanks! I might just take you up on that offer. I'm just going to check some local electronic stores first.
 
As you like!

When I receive the new LED batch I will test for the correct serial resistor value for a suitable LED luminosity.

CD :)
 
Just surfing thru the New Posts. I had a 1060 back in the early 70's. Hooked it with a pair of AR4x's. Just a beautiful little system that kept me sane.

I'd love to have that system again for....well I dunno...somewhere.

Rick
 
Thanks! I might just take you up on that offer. I'm just going to check some local electronic stores first.
Kelvin, my 50x blue diffused LED order arrived today from China.
Let me know if you want a 'kit' of components to install a blue LED in your 1060.

blueled.jpg


On the pic you can see a not powered LED and the luminosity of the LED at about 5mA of current.
Be aware that the blue colour is much deeper blue in reality (digicams always seem to have troubles to render the real blue colour of LEDs).

CD :)
 
Let me know if you want a 'kit' of components to install a blue LED in your 1060.

Okay, okay! I'm sold! The truth is, I'm too busy to find an electronics store and look for the parts. And since you're kind enough to ship these right to my door, it's really an offer I can't refuse.

Sent you a PM :D
 
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