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Sonotube fabric wrapping

Athecal

New Member
So as I continue my journey down the rabbit hole of home theatre and home audio in general I find myself wanting a subwoofer that can go a bit lower than my Cambridge soundworks p500. After extensive reading and evaluating my current setup I feel that I would be quite happy with a nice set of 10" subwoofers. I love the p500, I currently have the control module gain set to 0db with the volume around 60% and use my Denon Avr-x1100w settings to adjust the volume when I feel a need for more or less bass. The only thing I have against my current subwoofer is that an 8" driver, or pair of them just doesn't get quite low enough for some of the music I enjoy.

I have come upon 2 cambridge soundworks p1000 amplifiers and (4) 10" drivers out of the p1000 subwoofers. My master plan is to make 2 seperate sonotube subwoofers that will double as speaker stands for my rear speakers. My current 7 channel surround setup uses a Yamaha ns-c444 center, and (3) pair of Yamaha ns-6390s which gives me (6) 8" woofers already.

From what I have seen of the p500, the amplifier takes up about 3" of the total height of the cube so I am assuming the p1000 is comparable. Which means the 15" cube of a p1000 will actually be about 0.5 cu ft of enclosure space for each driver after deducting material thickness and amplifier height. My plan is to take the sonotube and install baffles about 10" inside both ends of the tube with one driver firing up and one firing down, both motors to the center of the tube which would leave me a sealed enclosure 1ft3 in volume as I plan to make the stands 36" tall. I would like to cap both ends and instead of building legs and a base like most people have done I would cut slots an inch wide, half an inch apart, on a 30-45 degree angle and wrap the entire thing in fabric so that it has the appearance of being solid while having the ability to breathe. I am not sure if the type of fabric really matters at the frequency of a subwoofer or if anything breathable is acceptable. I was also curious if anyone could tell me the difference in having the drivers facing away from each other and isobaric as opposed to having them both down firing and isobaric. Or if I should forget the isobaric idea all together and seal the center of the tube creating seperate chambers for each subwoofer the way they are mounted in the original enclosure. Any advice is appreciated the fabric question is most important to me because I don't want to buy tons of stuff only to find out it isn't going to work. As far as the driver configuration goes I would sppreciate any specific knowledge or advice as I have found many posts on many forums about sonotube subwoofers but none that answer my questions completely. If no answer is forthcoming regarding that however I will just experiment and post my findings in case someone else is looking one day. I will also try to remember to take pictures of the build process along the way and the finished product in case anyone is interested in this.
 
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So I failed to take pictures of the first attempt at sonotube subwoofers, when I start building things pictures just never cross my mind. But here is a picture of one of them assembled but not finished.

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I had some issues getting the speaker grill fabric to stick using 3M spray adhesive, was going to have someone sew up a sock for it. Then a piece of 24" sonotube fell into my lap which will allows me to make them shorter, 24" tall to be specific. 24" puts the center of the midrange and tweeter at 37", and they just look much nicer. I got distracted building again and skipped picture taking on some parts but will try and remember as I do the second one. Including the pictures I did take below.

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Built 18 of them so far, but I used carpet from Lowe's to cover the outside of the tubes, either black or the gray ribbed pattern.
 
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