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Sony PS-X60 automatic tone arm issues

S

Sandysound

New Member
https://youtube.com/shorts/NXQnQqMfHlw?feature=share


I have had the above passed down to me, it's in reasonable condition, but it's missing the headshell and counterweight.
Before I invest in those parts, I want to make sure this player will be functional. With the help of the service manual I have reconditioned the control buttons and given the unit a good clean.
Everything seems to be working as expected except for the automatic tone arm system.
The bar that raises or lowers the tone arm is stuck in the upright position.
When I start the player, it spins, I hear clicks and clunks, but the tone arm does not move from the resting cradle. If I push it over the record and use the lowering/lifting lever, it does not lower, or raise.
It does move back to the cradle if I push the arm so that it reaches its "played out" position, or stop the player.
I have tried to use some penetrating lubricant down the shaft of the raising/lowering mechanism, but no joy. I do understand the player must be playing for the arm to drop, but I cannot get it to move in the slightest.
I do have the actual arm from the raising/lowering mechanism, it's just easier (and safer, I don't want to break it) to work on the player with it off.
And hints tips tricks?
If I can resolve this I will order the missing parts and begin checking voltages and prepare to replace caps etc.
 
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Do you have the service manual? Vinyl Engine should have it. If not, the PS-X70 and PS-X50 manuals should be close enough to give you an idea of what's going on. I'm having trouble figuring out from the video why the mechanism isn't engaging the arm.

Edit: VE has it. You have to sign up for an account, but it's free:
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/sony/ps-x60.shtml
 
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How did you get the movements that you show in your video? I assume you moved the tonearm by hand.

From what I can see of the mechanical movement, it looks like you have an excellent chance of regaining full auto functionality. I suspect that the mechanical movement just requires a single fairly simple adjustment to get it basically working, with possibly some refinement to positioning/drop points to follow that. BUT, it takes time to actually reach the parts where you make some of the adjustments.

Also, to assess whether it can be repaired, you'll first have to examine the mechanical path closely to make sure that there are no broken parts and nothing is missing. As Sam advised, you will absolutely need the service manual. It will help a lot in seeing how it's all put together and should also contain some settings related to auto movement and positioning.

If (like me when I worked on a Sony) you don't have previous experience with auto turntables or much in the way of engineering aptitude, there might be quite a lot to deal with and you'll need to take it slowly and patiently. It's not as if the service manual tells you everything, so for some matters concerning the mechanical linkages and movements, you'll have to work it out yourself through cautious observation/experimentation. You should also be able to pick up useful ideas from repair videos and asking questions in the forums as you go.

You mentioned that you did some cleaning, but you'll probably have to go back and clean out old grease and relubricate to get things running smoothly.

Also, I think it's quite likely you'll have to remove the arm to do the required work on this TT, and that will mean unsoldering some wires. The manual has instructions for that procedure. It also has details on the lifter assembly, and you might want to start with trying to fix that first. The Sony auto decks have some plastic parts that are a bit failure prone after all these years, that was discussed in some threads about other similar Sony models. If yours is a close relative of these machines, I think in particular there is a collar around the rotation shaft of the tonearm, secured with a small setscrew, that is often cracked. It can be glued, and can be reinforced with a cable tie. I think some of the threads that can help, again not necessarily for your exact machine, are in AudioKarma somewhere.

I don't know if it's a complete no-go, but I wouldn't fancy trying to sort out a turntable like this with no headshell or counterweight installed or available. Never even tried. I'd recommend that you just take a chance and spend a little money on a cheapish headshell and cart, or scrounge one from somebody. I don't know how easy it is to get the counterweight for this table - again, I've never had to find a replacement for any turntable I acquired. I don't expect it would be very expensive. This deck does look repairable: the real question is, can you repair it. That mainly depends on how many hours you're willing to spend on it. The best answer would be, "whatever it takes". Auto turntables require some extra work because they have additional mechanisms. The Sonys don't always have the easiest access to the parts you want to reach, either. And you still have the relative electronic complexity of a direct drive TT compared to the bare bones belt drives that (I assume) dominate the market today.
 
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Hi Sam and Tonoje, thanks for your guidance.
I have an update here:

I have experience soldering but I'm not a circuit board whisperer, cabling is no problem!
@Sam yes I manipulated the tone arm by hand, I had it balanced by using a roll of tape like a counter weight to keep it horizontal so I could watch the action. I don't think it matters too much right now in regards to checking the action, as long as the arm can swing balanced, it doesn't know or care if there is a headshell or proper counterweight used.
The quest continues...
Cheers.
 
Got it back together and the lifting mechanism was working properly, but still wouldn't put the needle over the record.
Much studying of the service manual and lying under the player staring up at the mechanics and I found a new part to wiggle and lo and behold, it came free!
Now to order a replacement head shell and counter weight!

 
I picked up one of these amazing tables way back in 2011 or sometime around there.

It kind of pains me to say it, but I suspect it is the best table I own, and I have a few sweet ones.

Congrats on your persistence. This table and arm will reward you.
 
onwardjames said:
I picked up one of these amazing tables way back in 2011 or sometime around there.

It kind of pains me to say it, but I suspect it is the best table I own, and I have a few sweet ones.

Congrats on your persistence. This table and arm will reward you.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, looking forward to hearing it, still haven't tested the electronics side yet so fingers crossed it performs as well as it should! Just need to get the headshell and counterweight first!
 
onwardjames said:
I picked up one of these amazing tables way back in 2011 or sometime around there.

It kind of pains me to say it, but I suspect it is the best table I own, and I have a few sweet ones.

Congrats on your persistence. This table and arm will reward you.
Click to expand...

I have a PS-X50 and agree, these are great, great tables.
 
onwardjames said:
I picked up one of these amazing tables way back in 2011 or sometime around there.

It kind of pains me to say it, but I suspect it is the best table I own, and I have a few sweet ones.

Congrats on your persistence. This table and arm will reward you.
Click to expand...
What do you use for a headshell/cartridge combo?
 
Sandysound said:
What do you use for a headshell/cartridge combo?
Click to expand...

While I have the stock Sony headshell and highly recommend it, the Audio Technica knockoff I scored for 30 or so from walmart.com works just fine.


Currently mated to an Audio Technica AT440MLb, and the results are very impressive.
 
I see some sh-155's with Sony XL-25A. Is that the same cartridge as yours? Have been told the AT's are a good place to start, and also pointed towards the Goldring E3, seeing good things about them around the place.
 
SH-165 is the stock headshell, though I've never figured out exactly what the difference is between the SH-155 and the SH-165. I just bought another SH-165 for a reasonable price out of Japan for my PS-X70. Any standard-type headshell will work, though you'll likely have to use that handy VTA adjuster on the arm base to level it up due to the weird step in the SH-165. I ran all sorts of headshells on my X70 until I got my first stock unit, and I still sometimes swap a non-standard headshell onto it.

Also, if you haven't noticed, there should be a very handy cartridge alignment protractor molded into the back of the platter mat.

I haven't found much of anything in the way of cartridges that doesn't work well with the PUA-7 arm. It's remarkably versatile. Did you happen to get the accessory counterweight with it? Some really heavy cartridges need the extra weight, and it can be kind of difficult to find one. My go-to on it is a Shure V15-IV with a JICO SAS stylus, the V15 has been mated to that particular SH-165 headshell since about 1978. My #2 is probably an Ortofon HOMC.
 
Sandysound said:
Awesome! What do you use for a headshell/cartridge combo?
Click to expand...
I use two mounted carts for it. An older AT 440mla. In the original headshell , and a SAE1000E on a generic headshell with 4g weight attached to the shell. Sometimes I use another generic headshell with a Signet TK3 and AT15s stylus.
 
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