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Sony TA-1010 left channel transistors 2SC895 shorted

EifX

Te Be or Not to be....where is my coffee!
Hi There,

I am arms deep in to a Sony TA-1010 that had blown resistors and left channel shorted.
Recapped and cleaned everything it, and now I need to find the output transistors 2SC895 (NPN) TO-66 package. I have done some searching already but can't find an exact replacement.
Does any know a replacement with a TO-66 housing?
Or maybe there is a way of using another transistor package that also works with the heat sink of the TA-1010.
 
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there are usually some on ebay, nos. that might be ok to use as them, had a quick look and there are 2 in the usa

I saw those, but how can I be sure that they are original?
When I see the pictures they seem like knock-off's
 
I am searching the interweb and will post any progress I have. Wish me luck :thumbsup:
 
OK, I found a replacement... I think.
These are the specs of the original:

2SC895
Uce/Ube: 90V/150V
Ic: 2,5A
P: 23W
F: 20Mhz

Replacement:
2SC680A
Uce/Ucb: 140/200V
Ic: 2A
P: 30W
F: 20MHz
Can I use the replacement?
 
yes those would be ok, (no g'tee given or implied) ! the TO220 was the replacement case to the TO66 so ones in that package might be easier to source

Sorry i'm not a native English writer or speaker...what do you mean with no g'tee given or implied? The part I don't understand is no g'tee
 
Hi There,

I am arms deep in to a Sony TA-1010 that had blown resistors and left channel shorted.
Recapped and cleaned everything it, and now I need to find the output transistors 2SC895 (NPN) TO-66 package. I have done some searching already but can't find an exact replacement.
Does any know a replacement with a TO-66 housing?
Or maybe there is a way of using another transistor package that also works with the heat sink of the TA-1010.
Hi..I also on my way to restore TA1010.
Could you please share capasitors replacement since the original using big "size" and also transistors with better performance?
Almost all electrolite caps just replace with higher voltage but same capasitance. Only the biggest one 1.000 uf 63 volt are still considering replace by 2.200uf 100volt.
I also just replace C631 with KSC1845.
There are some transistor are waiting for replacement, so the questions are:
a. How about C632 and 634, is it oke using 1845 also like C631?
b. For C1124, what is the best replacement? KSC 3503 or 2690A or others?
c. C1364, I saw still debated in many forums (KSC 2383, 1815, 945C and so on)
d. Finally how about your C895, any suggestion?
Thank you.
Regards,
Elsuhan
 
Hi Elsuhan,
I have to get back to you on this.
You have very specific questions about the caps and the transistors.
I need to have a look inside the amplifier to answer your questions.
So, i'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Regards,
EifX
 
Hi Elsuhan,

Sorry for the late reply.
On my machine, I only did a full recap and replaced the power transistors, and after that the amplifier wouldn't switch on anymore.
So I don't have any info about the rest of the transistors, sorry.
But I have replaced the large power capacitor with a KEMET 1000µF/250 and the 2 caps that are mounted on the chassis with the same capacitance that came out also KEMET 1000µF/63.
For the rest of the capacitors, I just used Nichicons.

Hope this helps a bit.

Regards,
EifX
 

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Hi Elsuhan,

Sorry for the late reply.
On my machine, I only did a full recap and replaced the power transistors, and after that the amplifier wouldn't switch on anymore.
So I don't have any info about the rest of the transistors, sorry.
But I have replaced the large power capacitor with a KEMET 1000µF/250 and the 2 caps that are mounted on the chassis with the same capacitance that came out also KEMET 1000µF/63.
For the rest of the capacitors, I just used Nichicons.

Hope this helps a bit.

Regards,
EifX
Thank you EifX,
I just finished to total recapped and replaced all transistors (follow SM description using the same type), except power transistor since it still original and working properly, the only one problem is the bias can not adjusted to 15mV (base on SM), the minimum can be lowest at 33mV (even trimpots was replaced with Bourns), but...when I run the gears for many hours it is still oke (not even much warm at heatsink).
Btw, if I'm not mistaken you mention your machine wouldn't switch on anymore? One thing I found from mine is polarity of those two 1.000 uf should be reverse. I using dim bulb tester before I tried to adjust the bias (very high more than 200mV) after I change the polarity the DBT was calm down and I can adjust the bias to lower than 50mV.
Hope it can also help.
Thank you and really apperciate for your sharing and photos.
 
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