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Sony TA-2000 Preamp Refurb

David_NC

Super Member
Over Thanksgiving, I was in NC packing up some of my audio stuff to ship to CA (we're finally selling the NC house). One of the items I shipped was my Sony TA-2000. It was well packed for shipping and couldn't have been damaged, other than from shaking / shock if dropped.
It arrived yesterday, and I decided to see how it worked via headphones. For one thing, neither meter light is working now; they were before shipping. I suppose shaking could easily damage old filaments, but I thought it was odd that both were out. When I turn it on, both output meters read around -2dB initially and then settle at around -7 after a few seconds as shown here:
TA-2000.jpg
There is no sound from headphones - no audio from my iPhone connected to any input, no hiss from phono inputs, no staticy controls, etc. When I get it home, I can connect the line outs to an integrated amp to see if the issue is with the headphone amp or elsewhere.
As far as I know, this unit is original. I'd like to do what's necessary to make it functional and safe to use. By that, I'd like to be able to use it without worrying about any damage to other components. I know pots and switches will need to be cleaned, but that wouldn't make the meters read high. I'm looking for feedback as to where I should start here. I'd assume the power supply board would be first, but what's next, and where would I start to correct the meter issue and lack of output? Sony's service manual looks to be really good, with view of component and trace sides of all boards, well-labeled components... I wish all were this thorough. Due to the 'modular' construction, this looks like it could be relatively easy to work on, though there are a ton of components. Below are some pics for fun.
IMG_9222.JPG IMG_9223.JPG IMG_9224.JPG IMG_9225.JPG IMG_9244.JPG
 
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Clean the pots and especially the sale for switches. Dirty selectors can cause all kinds of problems, drop outs, cross talk, etc.
 
It is time to do a complete cleaning of all the connections in that amp. All the board just pull out and have sockets they plug into (oops,maybe not, per the OP.) Cleaning the board edge connectors once every 50 years would probably be normal maintenance.

That first board looks simple to recap if you jump in for that. Appears to have just 6 caps to replace but I don't know what all the other components are without looking at the SM. Yes, the Sony SMs from back then are nice and should help you through.

I would have expected shipping to take out the lamp filaments. Maybe something got jarred loose to cause the no signal and the meter reading. If after a nice cleaning and resetting everything you can provide an update. The board pull and clean is a great opportunity to make a cap list, too. Nice preamp. I really liked mine while I owned it.
 
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It is time to do a complete cleaning of all the connections in that amp. All the board just pull out and have sockets they plug into. Cleaning the board edge connectors once every 50 years would probably be normal maintenance.

That first board looks simple to recap if you jump in for that. Appears to have just 6 caps to replace but I don't know what all the other components are without looking at the SM. Yes, the Sony SMs from back then are nice and should help you through.

I would have expected shipping to take out the lamp filaments. Maybe something got jarred loose to cause the no signal and the meter reading. If after a nice cleaning and resetting everything you can provide an update. The board pull and clean is a great opportunity to make a cap list, too. Nice preamp. I really liked mine while I owned it.
Mine is the non-F TA-2000. It has separate circuit boards that connect with a harness vs connectors. It might be a bit less convenient that way, but I'm sure it's ultimately more reliable with wired boards. One nice thing about the non-F is that each board is shielded on the trace side; I don't believe the F's boards are. I suppose cleaning contacts and controls and then checking voltages would be a good place to start. I'll def update after I do that.
 
I didn't go that deep into my 2000, no F. You could look at where the signal comes from for the meters and look at the signal flow through the unit, aux to output to see where it is stuck.
 
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