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Sorta New to Reel-To-Reel. Got Some Questions.

Justin Hogan

New Member
I'm pretty new to the world of reel-to-reel and I've got some questions. I'm using an Akai GX-215D.

  1. I've heard you shouldn't mix reel diameter sizes (ex. using a 7" take up with a 5" tape) or else the tape could get damaged. Is this true?
  2. The manual for my machine says that AKAI-LN-150-7 and Scotch #211 tapes are "standard" for the machine and its not recommended to use "regular" tape. What would happen if I did use "regular" tape?
 
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1: I'm not sure. Using a 7" supply reel with a 5" takeup reel would not work out too well.
2: The frequency response / noise / overall perfomance would likely not be up to the level of the recommended tape. Depending on your perfomance expectations, it might not matter.
 
Mixing of reel sizes is really about hub sizes, because of the difference in torque... So you can mix if needed, just don't choose "Stop" directly from full FF or RWD. That machine looks to have the basic 4000 DS style transport, which is all mechanical (not logic controlled) so you've got to supply the logic. Either let it all spool off without stopping, or have a thumb poised to apply the brakes if there's overrun. And do it without snapping tape... If the brakes are adjusted well, this isn't needed. But check it first.

It's usually easier to find the "right" tape than it is to re-calibrate the machine.
 
There shouldn’t be any problem using a 5” supply reel with a 7” take up reel even though they do have slightly different hub sizes. It’s better not to intermix them as it can affect the braking speed but probably the worst thing that’ll happen is a small loop might form when you stop the tape and you’ll have to pull it taught again to start the machine.

The GX-215 doesn’t really require any special tape, I’ve found it works very well with standard bias tapes and in fact I’ve found that the tape selector switch on this type of Akai machine doesn’t seem to make any audible difference at all as far as I can tell.

This is not the bottom end single motor 4000 style mechanism BTW, this is the heavy duty three motor mechanism with automatic control lever shifting. When the tape runs out or breaks and the tension arm drops the machine will shift itself out of gear so you don’t ruin the pinch roller by leaving it pressed against the capstan. In fast winding mode it will physically shift the FF/REW lever to the Stop position. This mechanism makes the machine very heavy for its size.

Also it’s loaded with 2sc458 transistors which may or may not give you problems. The schematic calls out for a few different transistor numbers but Akai used the 458’s in all of the positions. The last one I had (a black European model) wouldn’t play or record in either channel and one channel would squeal and peg the vu meter. I had to change out all of them (15 or so IIRC) and after that it was a fine recorder (it definitely wasn’t picky about what tape I used on it). Sometimes the transistors give you trouble, sometimes they work fine. Hopefully yours will be fine.
 
My GX-630D has the same tape recommendations, the only tapes that you should avoid are the Scotch 150 types. The tape selector switch just seems to boost the signal a few decibels for low noise tape; there is no additional internal bias pot for high bias tape.
 
What would happen if I did use "regular" tape

Basically nothing-machine would be overbiased for the tape, so high frequency response would be diminished.

Stick with LN tape types and you should be fine.

Many 'standard' tapes are noisy and you would not be satisfied with the result. The low noise tapes dropped the noise level 3db or so. Subsequent tape formulations dropped this even further, by up to 9db, but your machine is not capable of being biased for these tapes.

I use low noise formulations, like Maxell UD, UDXL, and Scotch 207, and I never really notice the noise level (hiss).

I also get lazy and use a 7" reel with a 10.5" take up reel, and don't have spill issues, and have not been struck down by a lightening bolt either:eek2:
 
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