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Sound of replacement parts...

Oops -- looking back, I see you didn't recap -- but for those who do, the observations still stand. :yes: Also about the melting point of wire.:thmbsp:
 
The guy that owns the store I get my Silmic IIs from says they need 100 hours to 'burn in'. Personally I am agnostic when it comes to 'burn in' but I figured I would regurgitate what I read.
 
motorstereo said:
I'm just wondering if all that nice vintage gear you have listed in your sig has been recapped?
I'd love to have all my vintage gear recapped no doubt. Recapping a speaker with no voltages present is as far as I will go. I know better than to go poking around in one of my vintage Sansui and risk ruining something. That mean paying someone to do a recap. Given the amount of keeper vintage gear I have I guess I'll have to keep playing Russian Roulette.
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All of what you see (and there's a bit more not listed) has either BEEN recapped (and are therefore in the rotation for being used), or are in storage until they are GOING TO BE recapped. I don't use any of them that have yet to be recapped.

You're right, though. If your not comfortable with poking around inside and don't have at least some knowledge of where smoke comes from, it's best to have it done by someone else with the experience of doing so such as some of the people who regularly post in this forum.

Keep in mind that if you continue to keep 30 year old Sansui audio equipment in daily use, it's more like a game of Russian Roulette where all the chambers are loaded. It's not a question of "if". It's a question of "how soon".
 
ghamilton said:
Another possibility. When I soldered the wires to the inside of the new binding posts I had to use a wood-burning iron to get the binding posts hot enough for the solder and wire to properly melt and adhere to the posts. I first tried it with my 30 watt iron, but it wouldn't get the posts hot enough. Although it looks fantastic, I'm wondering if the wire could have been affected by this extra heat changing the balance of the sound.:scratch2:What do you guys think?
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If a person is going to do a bit of soldering on intricate equipment over time, investing in a good soldering system is well worth the money.

Here's mine, and worth every penny. With user selectable temp ranges, it'll do anything you need it to do.
The Weller WD1002.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CCQQ8wIwAw#ps-sellers
 
When I recapped the MC board on my 919 I also replaced {C-07-08-09-10}
the 1uF 100v caps. These are some kind of myler or something that isn't electrolytic. The MC board isn't direct coupled like the rest of the amp so I wanted the best signal path caps that would fit. These are the caps that I put in. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...nk=hp_go_button&KeyWords=PF2105-ND+&x=10&y=18
After living with these caps I have discovered that they sound a bit to ripe. In other words, the bottom to mid is a bit too full sounding. They are good caps, but not the better choice for a good match. The ones that came out of it are better balanced but lack the "aliveness" of the newer ones. Any suggestions guys?
 
Typically I use the Panaonic ECQ-P(Z) polypropylene caps, but they are only available up to .47uF. I like the little red WIMA box polypropylene caps for values 1uF - 3.3uF unless there is room for something more esoteric like a Soniccap. Then again, I only use the latter on amps that I plan to go 'balls to the walls' on. An AU-919 would be one - I use my (restored) AU-919 every day!

I don't recall what kind of caps I used on my MC board come to think of it.. probably left them alone actually as I don't have a turntable.
 
EchoWars said:
I'd venture to say that perhaps the new caps restored the bass from it's flabby previous form due to the aging original caps. Tighter, deeper bass may easily be confused with a darker sound when comparing pre and post restoration.
Click to expand...

I fully support this observation.

I'm not able to generate superfluous descriptions of different sounds as generated by varied electronics, but I do know this:

1. I run 1984 Klipsch Cornwalls.
2. My G9000DB began oscillating and, even before that, had turned brittle.
3. While under repair, I borrowed a freshened Marantz 2285B.
4. The Marantz, immediately, blew the Sansui away in sound quality.
5. Upon return, the Sansui was markedly superior to the Marantz.

What changed? "A lot," but work was very much tied to the power supply and a re-cap.

What did I hear? Tighter and deeper bass with a darker sound. Essence of shrillness was gone.

Works for me. :smoke:
 
Thats a great observation. I did completely recap my 919 in stages. I first did the amp board. Then I put it back in service for a few weeks before doing the next stage such as the preamp and then the phono stage, and so on.
I made careful observations of the sound as I would recap each stage. Changing the trim pots gave it a darker sound than any other change that I made. A very interesting observation for a part that doesn't suppose to make an audible difference. :yes: The thought of putting the stock pots back in has crossed my mind. Also, those caps in the MC stage have to go! Too ripe!:grumpy:
 
OK, After putting the mylar caps back in the MC stage it made the difference
that was needed.:yes: It is just a better sonic match. Also, I ordered some wire-wound trimpots to replace the cheeper quality "cermet"trimpots. Bourns makes a super quality "wirewound" trimpot. If you would like to step up to a wirewound multi-turn trimpot then check out this site for some good deals.http://www.surplussales.com/Potentiometers/PCM-MultiTurn/PCM-MultiTurn-2.html
 
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