• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Speaker Cabinets, Howard's Restor-A-Finish and Wood Filler

hi*ball

hi*ball

Records & Coffee
Hello all.

I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to here on the forum or online.

Can Howard's Restor-A-Finish be used over wood filler on a speaker cabinet? Has anyone here had any experience doing this? Did it turn out the way you had hoped?

Thanks for the help!
 
Register to hide this ad
I would be concerned over the actual amount of stain in Howard's. I have used it many many times and with lots of great results but I think the wood filler would show up through it.
 
Hey,

I've been down that path with a handful of different types of fillers, stains, oils and Restore a Finish. Even when you purchase a filler that is "paintable" or "accepts stains", it does NOT accept the color like wood does. You will see the filler.

If you're attempting to color match the wood filler to the color of the wood you either need to paint the filler to match, or use powdered pigments mixed in to an epoxy based filler material. You could try using a polyester based filler system, but the pot life is generally so short you do not have the time needed to get the color right.

Biggles
 
I've got these KLH Model 20's that have a few small dings, mostly around the raised trim in the front. I will probably do some sanding first.

Model20_zps53078d66.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Every vintage speaker I have worked on (Advent, AR, JBL, ALtec Lansing, Dynaco), I have sanded off the old finish. Why? Because almost all of the cabinets also had stains and scratches that Howard's is not going to take out. Wood filler repair should be done with matching putty, that matches the finish you are going to apply to your wood. So if your going to oil it and it's a walnut color, you will need to find a filler that matches that oiled color look.

If your cabinets do not need sanding, then I think you are OK using Howard's, but I would still match the putty to the finale finish color.......
 
Hey H,

Can you get us some closeups of the areas you're considering using the filler on? For myself, I'm not asking anyone to blinding assume my philosophies, I enjoy a few dings, scratches and imperfections. These speakers, and many of mine, are old. They've stood the test of time and survived, a few imperfections are expected. If you want to use the Restore a Finish, lightly clean with some wood oil soap, let dry and apply the R a Finishing. Or sand them and use a few applications of Danish Oil. Either way, those imperfections generally just fade into the background.

xo, Biggles
 
I use Howard's products but agree they do not work on filler. My favorite filler is JB Weld Kwikwood. Very good, even for corners. Dries very hard and does not crumble. I use a dark walnut, furniture touch-up marker on the filler, blending it into the Howard's.
 
I have seen a fine tipped sharpie used to add a little "grain" to wood filler. The gentleman doing it was working on furniture, but I guess it would work on speakers too.
 
No not if your expecting like new finish. wipe them down with gojo hand cleaner and put a couple of coats of howards on. If you don't like the results sand them down fill them and refinish.
 
bills said:
No not if your expecting like new finish. wipe them down with gojo hand cleaner and put a couple of coats of howards on. If you don't like the results sand them down fill them and refinish.
Click to expand...

I think Gojo might be a bit much, but I haven't tried it and don't speak from experience. I'm with you though. They'll look great when you're done and if the tops are a little too marred for you, cover it with a placemat from your dining room table. Place a lamp on the sucker, or a statue of some ilk, and off you go.

ADC18015.jpg


Biggles
 
A bunch more home brewed recipes to try and achieve what "Poor Results"

Strip them with chemicals

Steam them with a wet rag and a household iron to remove 90% of the scratches

Hand sand them, putty some of the bad dings, light sand again.

Stain or natural

Wipe on Mohawk Pour-N-Wipe two coats.

Done
 
Last edited:
if you're going to try to match the color, and are sanding them, save the sawdust you've created by sanding, and mix that well into the putty with the closest color match to the wood you're working with. it can make the putty very close to the wood in color, and if you are lucky you won't have to work hard to match the final color after staining.
 
hi*ball said:
Here is what I'm talking about:
This might steam up
a_zps4da4ff55.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
These will all steam up but the chip
b_zpsdd4bc780.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

c_zpsddaef663.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Even most of this will steam up the deep sratch that broke the wood grain will improve but that's a bad scar maybe 50% of it will come up.
d_zps10755c52.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...

See Comments by photos
 
Last edited:
4-2-7 said:
A bunch more home brewed recipes to try and achieve what "Poor Results"

Strip them with chemicals

Steam them with a wet rag and a household iron to remove 90% of the searches.

Hand sand them, putty some of the bad dings, light sand again.

Stain or natural

Wipe on Mowhawk Pour-N-Wipe two coats.

Done
Click to expand...

Biggles taking notes on Pour-n-Wipe ...
 
drbiggles said:
Biggles taking notes on Pour-n-Wipe ...
Click to expand...

Hey fix my bad spelling MoHawk


Ok I can't tell if these are Lacquer or oil.

If they are iol the finish will wipe off with lacquer thinner. Keep changing your rags untill they are clean after wiping.

If laquer they will need a bit of cemical stripper and then a cleaning with laquer thinner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom