• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Speaker ID... kind of.

camerakid

camerakid

Active Member
Okay, here's the dealio with with this sub: I saw it sitting on a shelf at Goodwill for $9.99, but after 50% discount it came out to be exactly $5. The only thing I know about this sub is it's model number, manufacturer, year it was made and enclosure design. It is a Lancer Electronics LE-1SW, which has two 6.5 inch drivers in a 4th order bandpass enclosure. That's the only info I could find on the web; http://www.usedprice.com/items/audio/lancer/speaker/le-1sw-23022.html

The enclosure weighs about 30lbs and is made out of 3/4 inch MDF. It would probably sound great if it weren't crossed so high... it's crossed so high that it lets pretty much all vocals through (male and female), so as you could imagine you can easily point out where it is in the room.

So, my first question is, does anyone have any more information about it? And my second question is what can I do about it being crossed over so high?

Here's some pictures I took if they come in handy:

Terminal plate and logo:
36023724720_4cc854f0f6_k.jpg

Front(?) of sub:
36023724210_e799a993a1_k.jpg

Inside sub (top(?) panel removed):
36023723820_db642737a4_k.jpg

Back of one of the driver's magnets:
36023723250_6847e49883_k.jpg

top of crossover (inductors, capacitors, etc.):
36023722770_70f2bffb53_k.jpg

Bottom of crossover (looks like there's some resistors down there):
36023722300_7e53ddc183_k.jpg


The way the sub is built is very strange. You would think that the terminal plate would be on the bottom of it, but there's no feet where the terminal plate goes that prevent the wires from getting chewed up by the floor and the terminal plate from cracking, which leads me to believe that it goes up.

Anyways, thanks in advance!

For the time being, I will just do some more testing and see if maybe I did something wrong that made it cross so high.

(p.s. special thanks to photobucket for trying to make me pay to enable 3rd party hosting. Thank God for Flickr!)
 
Register to hide this ad
camerakid said:
Thanks for the suggestion, but I already tried that to no avail :( I think that the problem could also be with the type of enclosure it's in.


Yes, I agree. I might replace the capacitors and resistors later on once I get some replacements.
Click to expand...
Its meant to be the bottom end to a pair of satellite speakers that likely only reach 200hz at their lowest, like a Bose cube/woofer module system. It's not really a subwoofer in the technical sense. That's why it crosses over so high. There's no reason to replace the caps or resistors. Well, maybe the caps if they are out of spec, but the resistors pretty much will last until the earth is destroyed by our collapsing sun.

EDIT: If you want to cross it over lower, you will need to replace the coils with ones of different values, the caps might not even be in circuit to the woofer and are there to act as a highpass for the satellites.
 
Gazdatronik said:
Its meant to be the bottom end to a pair of satellite speakers that likely only reach 200hz at their lowest, like a Bose cube/woofer module system. It's not really a subwoofer in the technical sense. That's why it crosses over so high. There's no reason to replace the caps or resistors. Well, maybe the caps if they are out of spec, but the resistors pretty much will last until the earth is destroyed by our collapsing sun.

EDIT: If you want to cross it over lower, you will need to replace the coils with ones of different values, the caps might not even be in circuit to the woofer and are there to act as a highpass for the satellites.
Click to expand...

So it's like the detached woofer on many Cambridge Soundworks speakers? I thought of that before, just never really kept that thought in my head for very long. I don't know a whole lot about crossovers (which is why I thought that recapping it would help), but hey, I guess you learn something new everyday.

Do you, by any chance, know what model of speakers this came along with? Would love to possibly score some of those to go along with this woofer.

Thanks!
 
Another way besides modding the internal crossover: You could use an outboard low-pass filter to feed bass to it at whatever cutoff you want, and run your main speakers off your receiver/amp directly instead of the subwoofer's outputs. They make inline filters to do exactly that job.
 
camerakid said:
So it's like the detached woofer on many Cambridge Soundworks speakers? I thought of that before, just never really kept that thought in my head for very long. I don't know a whole lot about crossovers (which is why I thought that recapping it would help), but hey, I guess you learn something new everyday.

Do you, by any chance, know what model of speakers this came along with? Would love to possibly score some of those to go along with this woofer.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
No, I dont, but the good news is, just about any htib satellite speaker will do the job, since the dividing network is in the subwoofer and this makes many speakers compatable. I would choose a pair with a small woofer and tweeter, likely many have ended up at the thrift store by now.

These bass modules have their place. I have a surround sound in the dining room with a similar bass module placed up high but still in a corner, at ear level with yamaha nx-e270 satellites. It actually sounds very good in there, with plenty of bass and its a great setup for general listening.
 
toxcrusadr said:
Another way besides modding the internal crossover: You could use an outboard low-pass filter to feed bass to it at whatever cutoff you want, and run your main speakers off your receiver/amp directly instead of the subwoofer's outputs. They make inline filters to do exactly that job.
Click to expand...
Yes, I was thinking of doing that with the 80hz low pass filter from Parts Express. Once I get to it, I might do that. Thanks!

Gazdatronik said:
No, I dont, but the good news is, just about any htib satellite speaker will do the job, since the dividing network is in the subwoofer and this makes many speakers compatable. I would choose a pair with a small woofer and tweeter, likely many have ended up at the thrift store by now.

These bass modules have their place. I have a surround sound in the dining room with a similar bass module placed up high but still in a corner, at ear level with yamaha nx-e270 satellites. It actually sounds very good in there, with plenty of bass and its a great setup for general listening.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I have a pair of Cambridge Soundworks New Ensemble III satellites that I could use. I might put them and the woofer in the living room where the TV is, I just have to think of a way to convince the family that it will be an improvement over the built-in speakers on the TV... :crazy:
 
camerakid said:
Yes, I was thinking of doing that with the 80hz low pass filter from Parts Express. Once I get to it, I might do that. Thanks!



Thanks! I have a pair of Cambridge Soundworks New Ensemble III satellites that I could use. I might put them and the woofer in the living room where the TV is, I just have to think of a way to convince the family that it will be an improvement over the built-in speakers on the TV... :crazy:
Click to expand...
I wouldn't cross over the module until you run some low frequency sweeps through it first. It may not do a whole lot below 80hz. Its also highly unlikely that the Cambridge satellites go down to 80 hz, so you could end up with a big hole in the sound.
 
Gazdatronik said:
I wouldn't cross over the module until you run some low frequency sweeps through it first. It may not do a whole lot below 80hz. Its also highly unlikely that the Cambridge satellites go down to 80 hz, so you could end up with a big hole in the sound.
Click to expand...

I did some sweeps last night and found that it goes down to around 40-50hz, which pleasantly surprised me, but that could be at -3 or -6db. Even if it was though, it would still be decent.

I agree with the Cambridge Soundworks sats not going down to 80hz, so I might as well either keep it as it is or put maybe 100hz-150hz low pass filters in it and use it with Minimus 7's for a nice "home theater" setup. Besides, I still have the "detached woofer" that came with the Cambridge Soundworks, so I might as well use that with the satellites instead of the Lancer.
 
camerakid said:
I did some sweeps last night and found that it goes down to around 40-50hz, which pleasantly surprised me, but that could be at -3 or -6db. Even if it was though, it would still be decent.

I agree with the Cambridge Soundworks sats not going down to 80hz, so I might as well either keep it as it is or put maybe 100hz-150hz low pass filters in it and use it with Minimus 7's for a nice "home theater" setup. Besides, I still have the "detached woofer" that came with the Cambridge Soundworks, so I might as well use that with the satellites instead of the Lancer.
Click to expand...
Good idea. The original sub will work best, anyway, as the crossover point will be the same.
 
I once had a DBX sub that was made like that. Sounded terrible. I sold the drivers and turned the box into a couple speaker stands.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom