Speaker Post Upgrade for NAD 3020 Series 20

[Planetirving]

Hi All,

I recently just put back in service my old NAD 3020 Series 20 integrated amp. I had been using a NAD 1300/2700 combo but was having fading, static, and drop out issues. I thought it might be the dirty relays and outputs or volume knob issues on the 1300 but having spent a lot of money and effort, can only assume it might be the 2700 having dirty relays (both units were recapped in 2012 while the 3020 is all original). I was going to test the 2700 with my 3020 in pre amp mode but after setting it up to test the 3020 as is, I remembered why I loved this unit (and to top it off, the unit has been boxed up since 2009 and snapped on like it was just yesterday that I “mothballed” it). I think I’ll retire the 1300/2700 for a bit and enjoy the old school sound (though there’s really just 7 years between these two units, it’s a world of difference). Even swapped out the 4300 tuner for my old 4020A tuner. The 4020 seems to pull in the signal even better. Viva Analog!!

On that note, the original speaker wire binding clips are broken on the right side of the 3020. I got the speaker wire pins in by using needle nose pliers, but this probably is a short term fix. Can these be upgraded to something like modern 5 way bonding posts? I assume I’d have to take it to a shop to be worked on but wanted to ask ahead of time.

Thanks in advance!!

Ps Yes, I have a lamp on my left speaker! Needed extra light .

 

[DatunWalnut]

Hi. Nice classic set up. You can't go far wrong with a Pioneer pl12d and a NAD 3020.
I would say that is a pretty standard fix for a tech. He would need to source slimline speaker posts and mount them on a panel. In fact I just completed a conversion of an old Luxman for someone the other week.

 

[painttoad]

Hi All,

I recently just put back in service my old NAD 3020 Series 20 integrated amp. I had been using a NAD 1300/2700 combo but was having fading, static, and drop out issues. I thought it might be the dirty relays and outputs or volume knob issues on the 1300 but having spent a lot of money and effort, can only assume it might be the 2700 having dirty relays (both units were recapped in 2012 while the 3020 is all original). I was going to test the 2700 with my 3020 in pre amp mode but after setting it up to test the 3020 as is, I remembered why I loved this unit (and to top it off, the unit has been boxed up since 2009 and snapped on like it was just yesterday that I “mothballed” it). I think I’ll retire the 1300/2700 for a bit and enjoy the old school sound (though there’s really just 7 years between these two units, it’s a world of difference). Even swapped out the 4300 tuner for my old 4020A tuner. The 4020 seems to pull in the signal even better. Viva Analog!!

On that note, the original speaker wire binding clips are broken on the right side of the 3020. I got the speaker wire pins in by using needle nose pliers, but this probably is a short term fix. Can these be upgraded to something like modern 5 way bonding posts? I assume I’d have to take it to a shop to be worked on but wanted to ask ahead of time.

Thanks in advance!!

Ps Yes, I have a lamp on my left speaker! Needed extra light .

this guy adds binding posts to his. looking at it and how it it built. i would not put big binding posts on it. i would try to find an original speaker terminal block myself. having the binding posts bolted to the pcb is a recipe for disaster imo.

 

[Goldie99]

having the binding posts bolted to the pcb is a recipe for disaster imo

I agree - personally, I'd mount the 4 binding posts to a small slightly oversized rectangle of ca. 1.5 - 2 mm thick rigid black epoxy/glass fibre sheet, and then mount that 'assembly' to the amp using a couple of M3 bolts in the 2 holes left when the original plastic rivets are removed (they are actually reusable push-lock fit rivets, so there's no need to cut them out).

The PCB connections would still need to be reworked somewhat, but I'd probably opt for short wire links, so the majority of any force applied during speaker connecting / disconnecting would be passed to the amp chassis, not the PCB.

 

[Planetirving]

Good morning, thank you all for your input. I’m waiting for a reply from my local repair shop if they are willing to try. Not as many local options for this work anymore.

Cheers!

 

[DatunWalnut]

Good morning, thank you all for your input. I’m waiting for a reply from my local repair shop if they are willing to try. Not as many local options for this work anymore.

Cheers!

It's sad really. I do it as a hobby buying broken gear, restoring it and selling it on. Recently I've started picking up more and more work from people because there's just nobody to the work anymore. As a kid I remember TV and radio repair shops on every high street.