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Speaker wire

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Locobreth

Locobreth

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How does one determine the optimum speaker wire to use? Considering wattage. I remember back in the early no nineties monster cable was big. I never paid much attention to monster. I have in the past used cut extension cords as did some of my friends. Opinions ??
 
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Opinions vary. Use your own discretion and common sense, combined with your budget. I personally use lamp cord, the same thing as your cut extension cords. Many people feel this is sufficient. However, as I said, opinions vary, and many feel that there are better cables available and are willing to pay for them. I support all choices; if it makes you happy, then that is good.

I would say more, but as you are about to find out, this is a very sensitive question, frequently asked, and generally leads to a war. I know you did not realize that when you asked, but grab your ass with both hands and hold on, you're in for a bumpy ride.
 
Let's all get along. All Audio - NO Attitude.
Or I will just say something political and have thread closed.
Now to the question at hand.
I use Monster speaker wire on my main speakers on my main system, with AcousticResearch ox free wire for the surround speakers. Other system regular 18 guage speaker wire (short runs)
It all works good for me.
 
I have always used this analogy to answer this question :

You are about to run a marathon and you have to breathe either from a drinking straw or a fire hose, which would you choose ?

Always pick the largest gauge, best quality(oxygen free copper, silicone jacket) your gear and budget will allow.

100 wpc or less 16ga
100 - 250wpc 14ga
250 + 12ga

Quality terminations are just as important.

Let the fireworks begin.............
 
I do use quality heavier gauge extension cords. I also do use 18 gauge speaker wire for short trips. I've just always run into very different opinions among my friends. I respect everyone's opinion. I do look forward to hearing all of yours.
 
When people start to argue over weather that can hear the deference in the sound, just by the speaker wire that is used, my BS meter alarm goes off.
This is a sensitive topic, and can get you band if you don’t drink the Kool-Aid.
Blind test have been done over the years and the results were very shocking to say the least.
As long as the gage is correct for the wattage you’re using is observed, and it's a high percentage pure copper is used you’ll be happy.

I’ve done test and I can’t tell the deference in a high dollar set, or just plane zip cord. So I just use zip cord.
On my big PA system I run 2000 watts through a 12 gage wire at some pretty long runs, up to 100 feet, with no problem.

If you want to spend your money on something that has the least affect on the outcome then i wont argue with you.
But I would start with just zip cord and let you be your own judge.
 
I say go with Kimber Black Pearl or go home! :thmbsp:

Actually I'm of the opinion that there are definitely differences and I can hear some/many of those differences when compared back to back, but they usually aren't enough to get bent out of shape over. The folks that claim that introducing a certain cable over another will take a system from super smooth and refined to steely and nerve-wracking... I can't get on board with that. Likewise, if you have a $200 system, no speaker cable is going to make it sound like a $10,000 system.

Basically I suggest people use 10 - 12 -14 gauge cable with decent (American or Japanese) copper that doesn't cost a ridiculous amount of money and if they want to spend some extra so it looks cool/pretty/huge then that's fine, too. I've been using the same 14 gauge silver-plated copper from DH Labs for about 12 years now and, while mine was free, even if I'd spent $200 on it (what it would cost new, terminated today), that would break down to about $1.40 per month. I'm sure the Belden or Canare from Blue Jean would have served just as well for 60% less and that's what I'd probably do today if starting over, but why would I waste even two seconds of my time worrying about 80 cents a month? This is the wrong hobby for folks that want to quibble over 80 cents a month.
 
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Take the back panel off the most expensive speaker you can find. Do you see anything else but just plane stranded wire in there?
 
Roger Russelllll knows more about speaker wire than anyone. He has all the answers, please google his extensive research paper. Thanks.
 
Are you looking for good looks or good sound? You can go all the way to the moon for some pretty speaker cables... :D
 
sb47 said:
When people start to argue over weather that can hear the deference in the sound, just by the speaker wire that is used, my BS meter alarm goes off.
This is a sensitive topic, and can get you band if you don’t drink the Kool-Aid.
Blind test have been done over the years and the results were very shocking to say the least.
As long as the gage is correct for the wattage you’re using is observed, and it's a high percentage pure copper is used you’ll be happy.

I’ve done test and I can’t tell the deference in a high dollar set, or just plane zip cord. So I just use zip cord.
On my big PA system I run 2000 watts through a 12 gage wire at some pretty long runs, up to 100 feet, with no problem.

If you want to spend your money on something that has the least affect on the outcome then i wont argue with you.
But I would start with just zip cord and let you be your own judge.
Click to expand...

Agree. :thmbsp: I have high resolution amps & Klipsch speakers that pass micro details well. I hear no difference in-between higher end speaker cable & zip cord.
 
Unfortunately this an area that you must do your own test and decide for yourself. Try to find someone that can lend you a set they like and compare them for yourself.

I’m not going to say there is no deference, but can you hear it and is it worth the money?
 
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Use a friend and try to make it a blind test, so your pre conceptions of the wire used are not influenced by cost.
 
RadioShack copper 12awg.
That's all it takes to make me happy.
As for termination: Binding posts, banana, or SpeakOn. I can accept most other things, although not preferred, except for 1/4". That is the one connector I cannot stand on a speaker. It doesn't seem to deliver the power.
 
I believe I read somewhere that the total resistance of the speaker wire, both leads (to and from the speaker), should not be more than 10% of the ohm rating of the speaker. In other words an 8 ohm speaker should be connected with wire whose total length would not exceed .8 ohms.

I have always been able to use 16 gauge extension cord. I cut the male end off leaving it with a 6" pig tale which I hook to the amplifier and then hook the rest of the cord with the female end to the speaker. This enables a quick and easy polarized disconnect while preventing accidental plugging in of the speaker cord to an outlet.
 
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