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Starting 2220 recap - my first

Steven Tate

Steven Tate

CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
In an earlier thread, I mentioned I had a Marantz 2270 I wanted to learn to recap, and was given good advice to start with something simpler, like a 2220. So I got a dirty, but working one off of the auction site and started collecting part. First thing out of the bag, the power switch was broken at the shaft in shipment. I found a new exact part at auction and installed it. It works perfectly. Used the Dim Bulb Tester for first trial and light indeed dimmed. After hooking up speakers and antenna, FM sounded pretty good - both channels just fine. Some lights were burned out, so I replaced the bulbs and all is well there. In the photos below you can see that the upper chassis was filthy with dust and grease. I spent a couple of hours with 91% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips, cleaning every nook and cranny. I saw some threads about washing with water and soap -- not that brave yet. Anyway, I got a Hakko FX-888D soldering station and the FR300 desoldering station. Bob (wlhd1610) told me I would thank him if I got the FR300. All I can say is thank you, thank you, thank you. It makes removing components a snap. Recapped the Power Supply board with Nichicon Gold caps, paying close attention to polarity since one of the board markings is wrong, fired up with DBT - everything fine - and it worked! All this means is that I have no place to go but down at this point. :D Anyway a few pics of my little setup, the dirty and cleaned chassis and boards and the before and after of the PS. I realized after removing the large caps that I didn't know what to clean the glue off of the top of the board with where the larger caps were glued. I'm sure that makes this a less than ideal job, but next time I'll do better. Still have a long way to go, but thanks for everyone's help and encouragement. :beerchug:

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That looks great. I'm working up the courage to recap my 2275 and I really want to get the Hakko desoldering gun. Has it been performing well? I've read some troubling reviews on Amazon about failing heater elements and suction motors.
 
Looking good! I'm sure you'll do great on the rest.
I really need to check out one of those desoldering guns but I'm cheap and gotten really good at using the manual suction pump.

Mike
 
The desoldering gun is very easy to use. It makes desoldering a component a 10 second job, and the component is usually freed to just lift off. Mine is new, so no problems yet. There are some cleaning instructions that clearly are important to keep the suction system from being damaged.
 
By the way, Mike, your 2220 rebuild thread was my main tutorial for this job. Your parts replacement sheets made it easy to collect parts. Thanks for taking the time. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has benefitted from your thread.:beerchug:
 
You're on your way!! I just use a small flat bladed screwdriver to get the old glue off. It will make for some small scratches but I'd rather have the glue off. It just looks ca-ca to me.

I do a chassis wash with good old Windex and a toothbrush that I've heated the "neck" and bent the head back. That way you tend to scrape less skin off on those razor sharp component leads and chassis edges. A thorough dry with compressed air and a few more days drying time and you're ready to go. This will likely mess up your vellum paper and get in the relay (if so equipped like the 2270) but I always replace these items in a rebuild. I just lay out a newspaper on the garage floor and have at it.
 
Weeeeeell. It may be a while before I get the courage to try that. I'm guessing meters need protecting in addition to the paper and relay. How about transformers? Does coming back with deoxit in the switches and pots eliminate whatever moisture might be present, or do you have to protect those too?
 
I don't protect any of those items and have not had issues as long as I gave the units 3-4 days to dry out here in dry Arizona. I don't worry about the relay and paper as they are replaced every time. If there was still any moisture in the pots the DeOxit likely will take care of that.
 
Recapped the power amp board last night. DBT was good and everything worked. I didn't notice a big difference in the sound after the power supply recap, but after the power amp recap, the sound is noticeably brighter. Haven't replaced the cans yet, although I have them. Some parts are still on order for the other boards. So far, so good. :)
 
Had the afternoon off, so tackled the big can capacitors (filter capacitors?). Went slow, watched polarity, everything went well. I had already bought another 35mm bracket since the 40mm cap was being replaced by a 35mm. DBT was fine and it sounded great. I'm pretty sure this step added even more brilliance to the sound. I had to reduce the treble to get it sounding more neutral. If you see something I could to better, let me know. I want to do this right. Thanks!

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The only audio adjustment I see in the 2220 service manual that I could do is to adjust R729 and R730 to 7.5 mV DC measured across R747 and R748. Do I need to do this, and are there any other adjustments I can make on this unit?
 
You'll definitely want to do that idle current adjustment. Sometimes those old trimmers can get dirty so with the power off give them a small spray of deoxit and turn back & forth a few times. Let dry and then follow the manual to set voltage with a DMM. The other trimmers set clipping and require a scope to set. I wouldn't touch those without the proper tools to set them again.

Looks like you left the original caps at C711/C712. Waiting for parts on those?
 
Son of a gun, you are correct,sir. They are checked off on my list that I copied from your thread, but they haven't been replaced. I'll have to check and see if I have them or if they were one of the ones back ordered by Mouser. I got an e-mail from them saying the BO items would be here in Sept. and Oct. so I ordered those parts from Digikey. Should be here soon. That color difference should have jumped out at me, but I didn't notice it. Thanks!:thumbsup:
 
OK, got the rest of my caps in the mail today, so I finished the boards that MBuras outlined in his excellent thread: Power Supply, Power Amp, Preamp Board and Phono Board. Also replaced filter caps and the meter cap. I didn't replace any resistors or transistors like he did. I looked for any sign of overheating on those and didn't see any. Set the idle current to 7.5 mV DC, and it sounds like a champ. Also replaced all bulbs with LED's and replaced the power switch that was broken in shipping. Oh, also used acetone to unglue the indicator needle from the string and repositioned it about 1/2" with new glue to get it accurate. I read about that in another thread, and it sure was easier than trying to fix it by repositioning the string. Cleaned up the very dirty face and very dirty interior. I'm proud of it for a first effort. In addition to considerable listening to FM stations, I hooked up a Dual 1229 turntable and it was extremely quiet in the background with great reproduction. So, now....do I need to recap the other boards that deal more with the FM and AM signals? Is there anything to be gained by replacing power transistors, or should I just be happy that I didn't blow anything up and call it a day? :)

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Looks great! Well done. I'm sure others will chime in but here's my 2 cents. Definitely replace all the failure prone 2SC458's on the phono and preamp boards (Fairchild KSC1845FTA works well). Call it a day after that and enjoy the music.
 
MBuras said:
Looks great! Well done. I'm sure others will chime in but here's my 2 cents. Definitely replace all the failure prone 2SC458's on the phono and preamp boards (Fairchild KSC1845FTA works well). Call it a day after that and enjoy the music.
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I ordered them because they were on your list. If they will be an upgrade, I'll get to it. Haven't replaced transistors before. I'll have to read up on the b-e-c terminals of old and new to make sure I get right terminal in the right spot. Any advice on replacing those transistors, let me have it. Thanks!
 
The 458's are pretty easy on this model and a great place to start. The boards are properly marked for direction and pin layout of the replacement part. The Fairchild's are ECB pinout when you look at them from the front, which is the flat side with printed model number. When done it should look just like the picture printed on the board. Have fun!
 
OK, I replaced the 2SC458's with KSC1845FTA's on the phono and preamp boards. The unit sounds great, so I'm calling it a day on this one before I blow something up. I will be moving on to a 2230 after this. Can anybody give me a thumbnail sketch of the major differences in the 2220 and the 2230 as far as upgrading components? Thanks!
 
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