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Static and flashing lights on receiver??

jleon92f

Addicted Member
Hi, I was playing my Lafayette LR-3030A and all of a sudden the sound got all static noise and the dial lamps started flashing? Then it went away?

What could cause this. I cleaned the pots with Deoxit yesterday, blew out the over spray.

It is playing good now. Should I worry about this?:scratch2:

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
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Best guess is AC problem - either the switch, the cord, or your outlet/electrical system (like a brown out). Especially since your lights were flashing. Could be loose internal wiring, but I doubt it. Good luck with it. Steve
 
Best guess is AC problem - either the switch, the cord, or your outlet/electrical system (like a brown out). Especially since your lights were flashing. Could be loose internal wiring, but I doubt it. Good luck with it. Steve

+1...:thmbsp:
 
Best guess is AC problem - either the switch, the cord, or your outlet/electrical system (like a brown out). Especially since your lights were flashing. Could be loose internal wiring, but I doubt it. Good luck with it. Steve

Thanks, I will open it up again and check.:scratch2:

John.:music::D
 
Thanks, I will open it up again and check.:scratch2:

John.:music::D

Lafayette lamps or room lamps?
I cleaned the pots with Deoxit yesterday
If you used deoxit on the power switch.(not a good idea). Your power switch contacts may be doing a little arcing..
 
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Hi, I opened her up again and cleaned the on/off power switch, AOK now!:banana:

Deoxit to the rescue again!

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
Lafayette lamps or room lamps?

If you used deoxit on the power switch.(not a good idea). Your power switch contacts may be doing a little arcing..

Lafayette lamps, if the room lamps were flashing I would have a BIG problem..:D

What should I use on the power switch?

It works great now, instant on/off as it should. I remembered a sizzling sound on power-up yesterday, I sprayed Deoxit in the switch and turned on/off about 10-15 times. The noise went away and it started OK. Then the sizzling started again his morning, I did the same thing, cleaned it again, it is working now. I will try it a few more time to be real sure.

Thanks for the help. I never came across this problem, just the volume control and dirty pots.

John:music::D
 
AC power switch is bad.

Deoxit on the power switch won't hold for long, the contacts are shot and will continue arcing.:sigh:

If you have the power switch associated with the speaker selector, you may be able to fix it, as this switch is easily opened up and closed again.

The switch may look about the size of a book of matches, mounted at the rear of the speaker selector shaft with two tabs with wires at the top or bottom.

Unplug the set from the AC line, and remove the two small nuts holding the switch in position, and slide the switch backward off the shaft and the two threaded rods, noting the position of a small rotating "cam" that fits in the center.

The switch comes in two parts, a front and back, open this assembly and see two brass strips with small buttons at each end (these buttons will be blackened and rough).

Gently polish these buttons until shiny using a fine grit sandpaper, blow away the dust.

Slightly bend the brass strips so the contacts (buttons) have firmer contact with each other and re assemble them into the slots in the plastic case you took apart previously.

Re-install the "cam" that opens the switch when you dial "off" on the speaker\power switch.

The easiest way to do this is to place the cam in place with the switch "on", set the front panel knob to the first "on" position and assemble the switch cover and place back on the shaft\threaded rods and test briefly to see if you got the position of the parts correctly (safest way to do this is with the "continuity" test on your DMM).

Once the switch is making\breaking the circuit properly, put the nuts back on the threaded rods and tighten snugly but not too tight.

Other switch types might be "rescue-able" using a similar technique.

Mark T.:music:
 
Deoxit on the power switch won't hold for long, the contacts are shot and will continue arcing.:sigh:

If you have the power switch associated with the speaker selector, you may be able to fix it, as this switch is easily opened up and closed again.

The switch may look about the size of a book of matches, mounted at the rear of the speaker selector shaft with two tabs with wires at the top or bottom.

Unplug the set from the AC line, and remove the two small nuts holding the switch in position, and slide the switch backward off the shaft and the two threaded rods, noting the position of a small rotating "cam" that fits in the center.

The switch comes in two parts, a front and back, open this assembly and see two brass strips with small buttons at each end (these buttons will be blackened and rough).

Gently polish these buttons until shiny using a fine grit sandpaper, blow away the dust.

Slightly bend the brass strips so the contacts (buttons) have firmer contact with each other and re assemble them into the slots in the plastic case you took apart previously.

Re-install the "cam" that opens the switch when you dial "off" on the speaker\power switch.

The easiest way to do this is to place the cam in place with the switch "on", set the front panel knob to the first "on" position and assemble the switch cover and place back on the shaft\threaded rods and test briefly to see if you got the position of the parts correctly (safest way to do this is with the "continuity" test on your DMM).

Once the switch is making\breaking the circuit properly, put the nuts back on the threaded rods and tighten snugly but not too tight.

Other switch types might be "rescue-able" using a similar technique.

Mark T.:music:

Thank you very much, looks like you have been here before..:thmbsp:
I will make the repair as you have posted.

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
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I don'y have room to remove the switch, there is a resistor in the way, on this one, I made a small hole in the top of the switch and shot more deoxit in it. I am not keeping this. Undecided what I am going to do. A lot of work repaing the switch.

Thanks for the lesson on repairing it though.:thmbsp:

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
Depending on which deox-it your using. A lubricating film is left behind.This film gets between the contacts and will actually cause arcing with 120/220vac currents. Deoxit is meant to remove oxidation- not carbon deposits from pitted, arcing power switches.
 
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Does this hurt anything? The original switch is on the speaker mode shaft.:scratch2:

I turn this on first, then the speakers, I hear the click for the L/R channels.
Works fine so far.:thmbsp:

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
Not sure if this is any help, but...
I bought a Used (obviously) LR-120DB about 3 months ago. Seller said it had a "sticky off/on switch" and noisy balance control. I used contact cleaner, that fixed the balance control noise.
Let it sit overnight before using the receiver, on first start up, sizzling noise from the off/on switch. So I guess contact cleaner is not a good idea for off/on switches. The off/on switch worked ok for a bit then became "sticky" again. I ended up using an extension cord with a switch, the receiver plugs into one end of the cord, switch is on the other end.
One other odd thing, the middle (of 3 dial lamps) lamp was out when I bought it, a couple times when using the original off/on switch the left side lamp would not light, tapping on top of the receiver above the lamp made it come on. Not sure if it's a ground problem or a switch problem, has not happened since installing the ext. cord switch.
 
I needed to add a switch on a receiver that had the power was on the volume control once. Ended up replacing the headphone jack with a push button switch onto the chassis that fit the into the hole in the panel.


How tricky is getting the top off?




Barney
 
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