Stay where I am or .......
- Thread starter Kybronco
- Start date
Kybronco
Active Member
No I haven’t I was remembering what my hpm 150s sounded like and have found there are quite a few of these 100s available in my area . I guess also I was thinking about the sx 980 I just purchased and how it would be cool to keep it all pioneer components . Just the nerd in me . But i like the 7s just wanted some opinions and lol I got them !
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Couple potential issues not mentioned ...
I forget - are these things ported? If not, it's common for the driver seats to go dry as well and allow air in around the baskets. A thin bead of removable caulk works well for resealing these. Not a bad idea to look at the control plates a well as those can loosen up and leak. I assume they're particle or strand board and those can develop leaks at the joints - a small bead of silicone sealant pressed into the joints can work wonder here and and won't dry out over time like rope caulk and it's like.
The cloth surrounds on these things will also dry out and go open a bit over time. If you can easily press the cones in after resealing the cabs, that's probably the case. Coat the cloth with a sealer made specifically for this purpose and retest.
Oh. Another fan of the RS speakers - I've got matched pairs of both the original Nova 8's and 6's stashed here.
PS - anyone mention adding a sub? Those can work wonders on the hard rock and can be bypassed on jazz and such. Get one that takes speaker level and just wire it in between the main speakers and receiver, then adjust the high pass filter on the sub to send on whatever bass the 7's can handle comfortably.
I forget - are these things ported? If not, it's common for the driver seats to go dry as well and allow air in around the baskets. A thin bead of removable caulk works well for resealing these. Not a bad idea to look at the control plates a well as those can loosen up and leak. I assume they're particle or strand board and those can develop leaks at the joints - a small bead of silicone sealant pressed into the joints can work wonder here and and won't dry out over time like rope caulk and it's like.
The cloth surrounds on these things will also dry out and go open a bit over time. If you can easily press the cones in after resealing the cabs, that's probably the case. Coat the cloth with a sealer made specifically for this purpose and retest.
Oh. Another fan of the RS speakers - I've got matched pairs of both the original Nova 8's and 6's stashed here.
PS - anyone mention adding a sub? Those can work wonders on the hard rock and can be bypassed on jazz and such. Get one that takes speaker level and just wire it in between the main speakers and receiver, then adjust the high pass filter on the sub to send on whatever bass the 7's can handle comfortably.
woofercooker
Well-Known Member
Things I did to help my Opt. 7s was - Replacing capacitors, I put speaker gasketing tape on the back side of the crossovers. (to keep from vibrating against the back panel), also used the same Gasketing tape on the woofers for a tight seal. Cleaned the Mid and High pots with a deox spray cleaner-lube. No tricks or gimmicks. Placement is important for best imaging. Make sure all drivers are working. I have never heard the HPM series though I do have the Pioneer CS 700g, CS 63, and the CS 77a and all have been recapped and pots cleaned. The CS 77a sound closest to the Optimus 7 but still quite different. The Optimus sound Wider and more midrangie(if that's a word) than any of the pioneers mentioned above. They need a big room to really sound their best. I do have a Sub in my system but only use it for Home theater or smaller front speakers when I do my rotating of vintage speakers. Also, the owners manual for the Optimus 7 says 60 watts max..Not a party speaker as you probably know. If you do replace the caps all you need is a 2.2 uf and two 22uf per speaker. You won't need to replace bass switch caps..