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Steelman console worth picking up?

12L6 eh? That was a common tube used in car radios. Don't think I've seen one used anywhere else. Its sorta similar to a 6v6 in most ways except for the lower voltage ratings. I'd figure maybe 7-8 watts per channel.

I don't have that Sams unfortunately so I can't offer any other details.
 
So far I like what I see. Even replacing the whole cartridge and stylus is probably not very expensive. I recommend a diamond stylus if available. If you can get documentation it is probably worth cleaning and lubing the TT.
 
After playing nicely yesterday, today it had a loud hum when I turned it on, so I immediately turned i off. It is more humid today, so something may be shorted in there. My plan is to remove the amp to Deoxit the pots and see what e-caps are in there.
 
Sounds like the main power filter (can) capacitor wasn't reformed properly after years of inactivity. This usually happens with stuff that has sat for years un powered. Since it needs new capacitors anyways, in my experience, this will take care of the hum.

One leg of the filter capacitor has probably opened and in which case, is most likely your hum problem.
 
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Disconnected the amp, so here are pictures. Second output transformer is inside.

Amp.JPG

I assume the large orange caps are the main filter caps. The case of one was completely loose, so I was able to turn it to get a picture of the specs. Is 150 W.V.D.C just 150V?

Main caps.JPG

Couple of smaller caps, the tan colored one says Paper Condenser. Is that not an e-cap?

Med cap.JPG Condenser cap.JPG

Two small caps hidden back here. Could not quite make out what the values are.

Lower cap.JPG

I'm pretty sure I don't have any 40 µF caps on hand, not sure about the 0.047 µF cap. Anything else I should be looking at/replacing?
 
The orange one's are electrolytics and need to be changed out also, but they are not the main power filter capacitor.

The main one which is most likely the cause of your hum, is the silver can mounted upside down right next to the 12AX7 tubes. On your tube layout diagram, it says, "ELECT" which is short for Electrolytic. It will usually contain 2, 3, or 4 individual capacitors inside one can. Hoe many capacitors and their voltage ratings are usually etched on the side of it somewhere.

The flat brown disc capacitors are usually not problematic so you won't have to worry about those, just the orange one's and the can capacitor.
 
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KeithD said:
The case of one was completely loose, so I was able to turn it to get a picture of the specs. Is 150 W.V.D.C just 150V?
Click to expand...

That's just a paper case over a metal can. Yes, that cap is 40MFD (uF) @ 150 Volts DC. The "W" stands for Working.

KeithD said:
Couple of smaller caps, the tan colored one says Paper Condenser. Is that not an e-cap?
Click to expand...

The tubular yellow one's are not electrolytics but are the old wax paper coupling capacitors and they will also need to be replaced. After this long and they are still in there, everyone of those is bad.
 
47uf, 160v would be the modern replacement for that. 200 or 250v would also work perfectly fine if you have them on hand.

The others I'd ditch for modern film. Waxed paper caps are not exactly the most durable things.
 
Here is main filter cap stamping. Looks like three 40 µF caps at 450V. If I understand this right that is 120µF at 450V. I know I have nothing like that on hand.

Filter cap.JPG

I also see three terminals at the bottom. I'm only familiar with two terminal caps, so I'll need instruction on how to replace this one.

Filter cap posts.JPG

gadget73 said:
47uf, 160v would be the modern replacement for that. 200 or 250v would also work perfectly fine if you have them on hand.

The others I'd ditch for modern film. Waxed paper caps are not exactly the most durable things.
Click to expand...

I do have 47µF caps, but nothing that voltage or higher.

Yes, anything under 1 µF I look for film caps.
 
yeah, three 47uf @ 450v. The can body is negative for all 3 caps, the terminals on the bottom are the individual + leads. You can mount those on a terminal strip near the can, just ground the three negative leads to the can body (or to a terminal that is wired to the can body) and it should behave itself just fine.
 
Ok, so I just disconnect the leads to each terminal, and then reconnect to the + terminal of a new cap, right? All the negative ends get soldered to the can, which I do see has a solder point on the bottom where other connections have been made.

So, If I'm understanding this right, for the main filter cap, I can use (3) 47µF 450V e-caps. For the two orange caps I can use 47µF 160V e-caps, and the wax caps replace with equivalent film caps. Correct?

I don't have anything on hand at those voltages (I've only worked on 70s solid state stuff), so I'll have to order parts. However, I see 47µF caps are MUCH less expensive than 40µF caps. If I had to use 40µF caps, the cost would be more than this console is probably worth!
 
KeithD said:
Ok, so I just disconnect the leads to each terminal, and then reconnect to the + terminal of a new cap, right? All the negative ends get soldered to the can, which I do see has a solder point on the bottom where other connections have been made.

So, If I'm understanding this right, for the main filter cap, I can use (3) 47µF 450V e-caps. For the two orange caps I can use 47µF 160V e-caps, and the wax caps replace with equivalent film caps. Correct?
Click to expand...

You got it. You can get multi-cans too if you want but this thing seems like it has enough room under the hood that individual caps and a terminal strip will get the job done. Just don't leave the new caps hanging in space or they could move and short. Attached to a terminal strip will keep things in place.

40uf is an odd value now, so the prices are stupid and selection is limited. 39uf or 47uf are a lot more available. I suspect "40uf" caps are 39uf with a different label and a wide enough tolerance band to make it work out.
 
I would suggest slightly higher working voltage rating than stock to account for increase in line voltage since 1959.
 
mashaffer said:
I would suggest slightly higher working voltage rating than stock to account for increase in line voltage since 1959.
Click to expand...

Prolly the engineers thought of that with the tolerance ratings but yeah, anything above the original working voltage is fine. I just recapped an old 1940's Silvertone radio with original voltage capacitors. My friend has it on display in his thrift shop and he says its been working cool and flawlessly for weeks.
 
Thanks for all the advice! For my 70s gear I have mostly bought Nichicon e-caps from Mouser or Digikey. On a small order like this you get socked with more shipping than the parts cost.

Also, just wondering if this console is worth the effort to save, or part out the tubes and/or amplifier? I perceive this is not a "high end" or sought after console, and Steelman was a minor brand. What do you think? Cabinet is nice, but not complete since the badge is missing, and it does have some dings that should be touched up. When it was playing sound quality was ok, not great, but that may be typical of consoles?
 
KeithD said:
Thanks for all the advice! For my 70s gear I have mostly bought Nichicon e-caps from Mouser or Digikey. On a small order like this you get socked with more shipping than the parts cost.

Also, just wondering if this console is worth the effort to save, or part out the tubes and/or amplifier? I perceive this is not a "high end" or sought after console, and Steelman was a minor brand. What do you think? Cabinet is nice, but not complete since the badge is missing, and it does have some dings that should be touched up. When it was playing sound quality was ok, not great, but that may be typical of consoles?
Click to expand...

The value of it will be in the listening. I doubt that it will have any real collector value in the near future. It looks like it could be a very pleasant listener or could be easily mod'ed to be so. The tubes and even more so the iron have value of their own. It would not be all that difficult to convert to a nice stand alone amp for someone with the skills to do so. I am working on (slowly) a resto-mod of a similarly low end console.RCAfront.jpg RCAback.jpgRCAopen.jpg
 
Local guy who fixes old stereo equipment as a hobby has the high voltage e-caps I need for about $2.50 each.

mashaffer, thanks for the opinion. I was thinking similarly, that the sound would be the deciding factor, and I really have not had enough time to evaluate that before it stopped working. So, I'll replace the e-caps and see how it sounds. I would think, with three speakers per channel, I should get a decent sound. Should I be replacing the crossover cap by the speakers? Is that a small transformer mounted by the speakers? I'll have to have a closer look at that.
 
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