Stripped faceplate screw, 2270 - help!

[John Kane]

Greetings all,

Marantz 2270 - three of the faceplate screws came out easily but the last one stripped. Now stripped beyond all hope and redemption after I've finished with it. How do I remove this little bugger without damage? Yes, I've tried the rubber band trick but with no luck. If a screw extractor is recommended, please let me know the size. I have the new vellums and bulbs patiently waiting but this has become one of those days...

I bought this 1975 Marantz 2270 from a friend of the original owner and was told that it has never been serviced. It sounds wonderful. Everything works well although a dial light bulb is out and the red stereo light is usually out although it will occasionally come on when it so pleases. That is a mystery and I'd like to know the cause.

You help and expertise will be much appreciated!
John

 

[dankik]

Here's a couple of old posts on AK that talk about your problem. You really should be using JIS screwdrivers (as described in the post). They won't slip like Phillips are intended to.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-2230-stripped-screws.820261/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-remove-stripped-screw-on-marantz-2270.873848/
Which screw is it? Top/Bottom, Left/Right
I think there might be standoffs behind the faceplate that maybe you can unscrew then work the screw out with the rest of the receiver out of the way? I don't recall how they screw into the chassis.

If the screw head is not totally stripped out, you might be able to spray a small amount of WD-40 between the back side of the faceplate and the stand-off and let it soak for a while to free the frozen screw threads (careful the spray will get all over the faceplate, maybe spray into a cup and use a small stir stick to drip it). The other thing to try is to apply a little heat to the standoff, maybe with a soldering iron, but be careful not to melt any plastics near the faceplate.

This screwdriver is for Japanese JIS screws and will not cam-out like a Phillips screwdriver. If there is anything left of the screw head, you can try to have it "bite" into the head and see if it loosens.

 

[John Kane]

Here's a couple of old posts on AK that talk about your problem. You really should be using JIS screwdrivers (as described in the post). They won't slip like Phillips are intended to.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-2230-stripped-screws.820261/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-remove-stripped-screw-on-marantz-2270.873848/
Which screw is it? Top/Bottom, Left/Right
I think there might be standoffs behind the faceplate that maybe you can unscrew then work the screw out with the rest of the receiver out of the way? I don't recall how they screw into the chassis.

If the screw head is not totally stripped out, you might be able to spray a small amount of WD-40 between the back side of the faceplate and the stand-off and let it soak for a while to free the frozen screw threads (careful the spray will get all over the faceplate, maybe spray into a cup and use a small stir stick to drip it). The other thing to try is to apply a little heat to the standoff, maybe with a soldering iron, but be careful not to melt any plastics near the faceplate.

This screwdriver is for Japanese JIS screws and will not cam-out like a Phillips screwdriver. If there is anything left of the screw head, you can try to have it "bite" into the head and see if it loosens.

View attachment 2654070

View attachment 2654071

Many thanks! Supplies on their way and with renewed optimism I'll have another go. That leaves the stereo light puzzle - usually off but sometimes it will come on and stay on until unit turned off. This shows that the two bulbs are working but I don't know where to look to find the cause.

 

[dankik]

That leaves the stereo light puzzle - usually off but sometimes it will come on and stay on until unit turned off.

Are you talking about when you have the selector to FM, or when you have it in Phono, Tape, Aux, etc.? It will be Off if you select AM or Mono and if you do not have enough signal strength in FM.

 

[John Kane]

It's off with FM, Phono, Tape, Aux. FM signal strength is good. It's rare re-appearance is with FM. It was working when I first got the receiver this year.

 

[dankik]

If the lamps have not been changed, I think the meters use an 8V/40mA lamp. Two are wired in series according to the schematic one side is connected to ground and the other side looks like it is connected to the Selector rotary switch. Maybe a filament in one of the bulbs is broken loose and occasionally re-connects causing the lamp to light. You should be able to test voltage going to the lamp from the back when it should be on for Tape, Aux, Phono and off for AM or non-stereo FM.

 

[John Kane]

Thank you for this info. I will follow your advice as and when that faceplate screw is out. With this 2270 I want to replace the vellum and the correct iridescent bulbs to obtain that 'Marantz blue' look. For the main system I have another 2270 that has been well restored but I really don't like the LEDs. Too bright and out of character. This older model has never been worked on and it sounds superb. I'm quite attached to it and would like to use it instead for the main system.

 

[Catmanboo]

You could also use a dremel or similar hi-speed tool with a small cutoff wheel to just cut a slot in said screw & use an appropriate flat blade screwdriver to twist it out. Can't tell how often I've done this, even with hacksaw blades.

 

[dankik]

You could also use a pair of vice-grips to grab the rim of the screw (although it might be difficult because it is a pan head screw). Put some duct tape or blue tape on the vie-grip jaw edges so it won't scratch you face plate.

or this... (apply tape to faceplate so it won't scratch)

 

[John Kane]

You could also use a pair of vice-grips to grab the rim of the screw (although it might be difficult because it is a pan head screw). Put some duct tape or blue tape on the vie-grip jaw edges so it won't scratch you face plate.
View attachment 2654822
or this... (apply tape to faceplate so it won't scratch)
View attachment 2654824

Update: The screw has finally been removed. I bought a small VMAN Screw Extractor set and it worked very well. Changed the five dial bulbs. Two were out which isn't bad for a 1975 unit. Replaced with five new iridescent and new vellum for that area. Luckily I didn't replace the vellum in the meters as, much to my surprise, the result is much like the old yellowed vellum - a greenish-blue. The pre-cut vellum was from an eBay seller in Quebec. I'll buy vellum elsewhere in my quest for that original Marantz soft blue color. However, much to my delight the stereo light is working. At least for now!

 

[Bone Yard]

I had no idea there were units with pan head screws on the front panel, those are interesting. I think I'd break my rule and upgrade to hex bolts, even my little tiny CAR Amps have hex bolts on the face plate. Has this been discussed before?

 

[dankik]

Many of the models of that vintage had pan head screws for the faceplates: 2270, 2245, 2230, 2220, 2215.

 

[John Kane]

Part 1 ~ I'm keeping it stock as far as possible. Having used the screw extractor on the problem screw I find that I can now use a # 2 Vessel 900 to remove and replace it. That will suffice for now as I struggle with the following challenges.

Part 2 ~ Tried an AK recommendation to restore old vellum with bleach and I'm pleased to report that it worked perfectly - same color now as my new vellum.

Part 3 ~ Replaced the five dial fuse bulbs with incandescents from a trusted supplier but the panel light was a green/blue because these bulbs, as well as the original ones, are not a clear white color. Using the new vellum, everything carefully cleaned. I've now inserted five white LEDs and they are much closer to the fabled Marantz blue that I'm after. Close but not quite there. Have others experienced this problem? How on earth does one re-create that soft paler blue?

 

[Bone Yard]

I think my oldest is a baby quad but I thought for sure it had hex heads on it. The guy I got it from had dozens of stereos in his basement, it wouldn't surprise me if he swapped them out.

 

[icko30]

Original black faced maranz color is Teal. If you put incandescent bulbs with new vellum it will be original. Get two slices of vellum to avoid hotspots. If you want brighter get sansui 6,3V bulb. It will propably last less.
Azure or more like mediterranean blue are silver dialed ones. 1978 and above. If you put leds in those you get more violet like blue.

 

[John Kane]

Thanks you for your words of wisdom. Teal it is! Replaced LEDs with incandescents and my 1975 silver faced 2270 is looking quite grand. Finally relieved to have solved this puzzle and so too is my long-suffering wife who's patience was wearing thin as I had kept her informed about every interesting step of the way. This receiver now looks so handsome that I might reward it with a nice WC22 wood case if I can find one.

 

[icko30]

Yes, the wood case make vintage gear even more graceful. New ones you can buy in the states or in germany.

 

[rBuckner]

I think my oldest is a baby quad but I thought for sure it had hex heads on it. The guy I got it from had dozens of stereos in his basement, it wouldn't surprise me if he swapped them out.

The hex head bolts are quite a bit larger (thread diameter/pitch) than the screws so it's not just a simple swap.

 

[John Kane]

Yes, the wood case make vintage gear even more graceful. New ones you can buy in the states or in germany.

I've been looking at all new options but hope to find an original one in good shape. If not, then some of the new ones look to be very well made. Oleg at Oleg Vintage Audio https://www.olegvintageaudio.com mentions the elegance of wood cases and recommends them in his August 8 review of his restoration of a Marantz 2230B.

 

[icko30]

New ones are made most of solid wood. Original is plywood with very thin veneer so it is difficullt to restore if it is in bad shape. ( Too deep scratches etc ).