By jolt, do you mean the lights dim momentarily on the circuit the 1050 is powered by? If so you really should either split the sub and the 1050 onto separate circuits (not wall plugs, but on different breakers) as you might be at the limit for the circuit.
Just make sure the power strip is rated for more than the wattage of the 1050 AND the SUB. Total wattage on the back of the 1050 and sub which is the load the wall circuit sees when it's run full tilt, not Watts per channel. It's right next to the Voltage ratings on the back panel.
Add up the wattage from the 1050, the sub, any light bulbs on the circuit and any other appliznces. Add up the wattages and then divide by 120 (if in US/CAN) or 220/240 in EU or Asia, except japan which is generally 100V.
Presuming a 120V wall voltage, If the total on a 15 amp circuit is close to 1500W(12.5A) you are potentially overloading the circuit when you start up the 1050 or the sub. POWER CONSUMPTION ON A 1050 is approx 870W or 7.25 Amps. That's 1/2 of a 15Amp circuit. Ideally the only things on that circuit should be the 1050 and the sub. Figure 5a to 6A for the sub(I'm being pessimistic here) and you've got a GOOD recipe for an overload on startup.
If you have a 20A circuit in that room, move the 1050 and the sub to that circuit and minimize other connections to it.
Larry
