• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Switching to LED

Nope, not into Spiderman. I do know there are a couple of movies or something but I haven't even seen any previews. Guess I'm outta luck there!

I also wanted to tell anyone else with this receiver that I have a .pdf copy of the service manual. I tried to upload to that free manual download site, but the file is too big. It won't zip down to a smaller size. If someone knows of a place that will permanently host a 6.75MB file, let me know. Otherwise, just PM me.
 
hey-Hey!!!,
The LED/incandescant swap is fairly easy. First one needs to provide DC. A half-wave diode will do. TV flicker is 30 cps...so 60 cps isn't going to be a big deal. Then you'll need to limit current. The sum the voltages, pick the pass current and use Ohm's Law to size the R value. Keep in mind that for an AC waveform, the peak is going to be 1.414( root2 ) times higher than RMS. Make sure you're not exceeding the pass current at peak voltage.
cheers,
Douglas
 
mist said:
In their place, I will solder 3 bayonet sockets where the bulbs used to be.

Hence, in this case, I believe I will not need to add an additional resistor to keep the bulb from totally freaking out on me.
Click to expand...

You may want to put a normal diode in reverse polarisation in paralel to LED. A simple 1N4001 will do. Also, use a resistor whatever the voltage is. For example, a typical LED will be very happy with a 3V supply, but even then I suggest you use a limiting resistor. It is good practice to feed LEDs over current limiting resistors.

Given the resistor is big and powerful enough, you can even use 120-220 volts. Not a very efficient way to feed a LED, though :D

See:
http://www.josepino.com/circuits/images/ac_led.gif
http://tinyurl.com/32mtqd
 
I just wanted to say that this is exactly the reason why I joined the forum.

In a million years, I would never be able to find this much information on the exact topic I was looking for, anywhere else on the Internet.

After reading and searching and reading and searching, I always wound up back here. Becoming a member gave me the opportunity to search a little deeper and meet people who are willing to help. :thmbsp::thmbsp:

Thank you to everyone who posted in this thread and thanks to MIST for sharing the insight.

As a result, I too would be willing to share the service manual for the JVC R-S33 if anyone needs it. Simple PM or email me.
 
Interesting thread and (I think) I understand how to calculate the resistor now.

Expanding the OP's scenario of 3 lamps in parallel, each with it's own resistor connected to a 12v source, would it be feasible to connect the 3 lamps in series, and just use 1 200 ohm resistor for the 3 LEDs? or don't LEDs work that way?:scratch2:

Assuming these are generic LEDs, not the 'plug-n-play' ones already modified.
 
jimbofish said:
Expanding the OP's scenario of 3 lamps in parallel, each with it's own resistor connected to a 12v source, would it be feasible to connect the 3 lamps in series, and just use 1 200 ohm resistor for the 3 LEDs? or don't LEDs work that way?:scratch2:
Click to expand...
Connecting in series is fine, as long as you have enough voltage available. For a modern high-brightness LED with lots of voltage drop, 12V is cutting it close.
 
Post #7 (and this thread) should be made a sticky. There should be no confusion after reading that post. Thanks EW.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom